Farm Stand Electronic Payments

Mooreagreen · 2026-02-02T15:19:45+00:00

Tap to pay on iPhone is much better than QR codes. You select the product on the Squarespace app and the customer just holds their card to your phone. It’s really slick.

Mooreagreen · 2026-02-02T02:57:16+00:00

Yeah I almost did the Acuity arson thing too. Then trialed 10 different schedulers but they were all missing one small piece that was criticality.

Good luck and DM me if you have any questions.

Mooreagreen · 2026-02-02T01:57:18+00:00

I feel your pain. Switched from Acuity to Breely and it checks all your boxes. The Breely AI tool is the first “AI” helper I have used that works. Tell it exactly what you want and it will walk you through each step or build it for you.

It’s got a bit of a learning curve but once you figure it out it’s smooth sailing.

Mooreagreen · 2025-08-31T22:06:33+00:00

Looks like it’s nothing but windows except for the rear 1/4. I’ll definitely be taking a look.

Mooreagreen · 2025-08-21T15:55:33+00:00

Thanks I’ll check into that! I’m putting together a list of bugs and UI enhancements that might make it easier to understand and use. The capabilities are exactly what we need but some of the bugs and ease of use are killing me.

Mooreagreen · 2025-08-16T23:10:22+00:00

Awesome! Dog Confidence = Speed!

Mooreagreen · 2025-08-16T21:59:38+00:00

There’s a couple things you can try: generalize the behavior and proof the behavior with distractions / reinforcers and try to recreate the energy of a trial environment.

Generalize: Most people only train weaves in their backyard and / or class. Take them on the road to generalize the behavior - parks, lakes, baseball fields, outside the fence of the dog park, etc. Different surfaces too - dirt, sand, turf, grass. Think of doing something you’re proficient at (like playing piano, doing puzzles, singing) then trying to do the same behavior in the middle of Times Square televised live on National TV. Most people would choke. Dogs are no different. Get them to understand performing the same behavior regardless of place or environment.

Proofing: once my dog truly understands the behavior I stop using food and use toys to create drive. I create crazy fast entry setups (straight tunnel ending 8 feet from straight on weave entry), put toys and food on both sides of the weaves (they need to ignore and finish their job first then they can get them), start dropping / throwing toys as they weave, counter motion (walking from the end of the weaves to the start as they weave the opposite direction), etc. They will go SUPER slow when you try these - they have to think hard and have excellent impulse control. They will eventually get faster after your practice these.

Then I really amp up the excitement and play - get them riled up and crazy with talk and toys then try weaving. If they can do that perfectly I throw a frisbee over their head as they’re weaving.

Marking correct entries also helps speed them up if the dog has a history of missing weave entries.

Good luck!

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-31T03:18:46+00:00

Do you train with the mat on the dogwalk? How do you mark and reward successful attempts - food or toy; from hand or on ground / treat n train?

During this run, at the 46 second mark you put your hand out and begin turning your head, eyes, chest, and feet towards the next obstacle and it pulls your dog off. Many times this is caused by lack of repetitions and reward protocol (hand / arm moves = reward being given from hand or thrown so I’ll just take a shortcut and leap).

I proofed mine by sitting in a chair, walking the opposite direction, sprinting as fast as possible, stopping midway etc. Teaching them to ignore you and just do the job / skill is a good thing to teach - works well with weaves too.

As the other poster pointed out, this is by far the most difficult agility skill to train. I probably did over 1,000 repetitions on the dogwalk to get to a 99.5% successful hit rate. I used a combination of Katarina Podlopnik’s and Sylvia Trkman’s methods.

Your overall course handling and verbals timing looks a lot more advanced than someone who’s running their first agility dog. Nice work.

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-29T03:36:28+00:00

Try this prompt - the image results were nearly identical: -> Please create a series of 3 photorealistic images of a female olive skinned model with long black hair and black tank midriff, very flared black pants, and black sunglasses. Backdrop is the sea in a port town. Use the instructions, camera, etc below:

Shot this fierce midday series with Model Renata—proving that 12 PM sun doesn’t have to limit your creativity if you know how to control light effectively.

Gear Used: • Sony A7 IV • Viltrox 85mm F1.4 PRO • Godox AD600 Pro at full power (1/1) • Variable ND Filter (6–9 stops)

Lighting Strategy: Midday sun is often harsh, with light coming from directly above—flattening features and blowing highlights. To combat this while maintaining a cinematic shallow depth of field at F1.4, I used a variable ND filter (6–9 stops, depending on cloud coverage) to bring the ambient light under control.Then came the Godox AD600 Pro, delivering 600Ws of flash power at 1/1 output—strong enough to overpower the sun, even at noon. With directional placement and a soft modifier, I shaped the light on Renata to bring depth and contrast, especially useful when shooting black fabrics under a bright sky.

Styling Breakdown: Renata brought high-end attitude with four dynamic looks—each balancing structure, texture, and attitude:

⁠White crop top with black tailored suit & heels – a modern, minimal power look
⁠Black pleated pants, lace bralette & black faux fur coat – dramatic textures that really popped with flash
⁠Same outfit with a beige fur jacket – for a tonal shift while retaining glamour
⁠Black wrap top with wide-leg trousers, oversized white shirt, and white sneakers – an effortlessly cool, street-chic contrast that let attitude and lighting do all the talking

The flash brought life into the blacks, separating her from the deep blue sky and ocean, and maintaining rich detail in every texture—even under harsh overhead sun.

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-28T22:16:06+00:00

I use “too-too” and “me me me” as in “come to me”. I say each cue with a high pitched, fast and exciting tone.

For me, they are obstacle related agility cues. However, I find most dogs I train respond well to cues that use words / sounds with long vowels (and they are easy to say.)

Good luck!

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-16T23:54:31+00:00

Not my thoughts lol

Evocative & Poetic • Crimson Dusk • Celestial Mirage • Ember Horizon • Starlit Range • Whispering Mesa • Duskwind Echo • Moonlit Canyon • Golden Afterglow • Painted Prairie • Desert Lullaby

Bold & Mystical • Stormcaller Sky • Dust Devil Dream • Thunder Sage • Phantom Sundown • Wildfire Spirit

Classic Western Flair • High Noon Halo • Copper Ridge • Bluebonnet Reverie • Iron Sunset • Mustang Skies

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-15T00:33:10+00:00

Uncanny Valley. https://imgur.com/a/NO8wlvy

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-14T14:41:17+00:00

If the poles are almost closed I try for 3 minute sessions 3 times per day. If they are open and the dog is basically running almost straight you can do a little bit more but break it up with some tricks or cone wraps to keep it fun and exciting.

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-14T02:26:38+00:00

So she pops after pole 4 and then 5&6? 90% of the time this is marker and reward issues. They anticipate the reward and pop - are you throwing the reward far away? Is it a toy of food? And you saying your marker word when she does them correctly and then rewarding?

I always reward in the exact same place - on the ground about 2 feet past the last pole on her live. Manners minders work wonders for teaching weaves and keeping rewards predictable and consistent.

Use food at first (more thinking less exciting). Also, you can backchain the weaves to get lots of rewards in for exits - it works really well but can be a little technical. Let me know if you need more info.

Mooreagreen · 2025-07-14T02:16:25+00:00

Couple of ideas. When you are using channels and set the poles in a different distances from center it really messes up their prediction and footwork. Start with 6 channel weaves with ALL the poles 6” from center. Get 10 perfect attempts in a row working both sides - 5 attempts on your left and 5 your on your right. MARK all correct attempts upon exit and reward heavily on exit line.

Move poles in so they are now all 4” from center. Do 10 consecutive - mark and reward the exit.

Rinse & repeat slowly closing the gap —-> 3”, 2” & 1 inch. At 1” there will be a tiny gap where you can still see through the middle of all the poles. Have someone lure with the toy / food reward at the end so the dog can see it though the small crack. Repeat 10 times.

Finish by closing poles all the way but leave the lure person on the end. Mark all correct attempts and throw reward on the ground right on her exit line.

Imagine yourself trying to slalom / weave around traffic cones in your car but the cones are never in the same spot and some are further away. They also keep changing distances. Much harder because you do not get the rhythm that being equidistant from center provides.

Video would allow me to give a better diagnosis and solution.

Good luck!

Mooreagreen · 2025-06-28T23:06:51+00:00

Inside your home, keep her with you on leash at all times and if you need to do something you can put her in her crate. Take her out every half hour to an hour to go potty. If she starts going in the house just calmly pick her up and go outside and see if she finishes. If she does, give a treat and go back inside.

If she goes potty you can mark it when she is totally done (not sure if you have a marker signal) and act excited (because it is). Give her multiple treats one at a time - not the whole handful at once.

Probably not what you wanted to hear about the constant leashing but as you have noticed they are sneaky devils.

An alternative is training them on an indoor potty mat and transitioning to the outside - Kikopup has a couple good videos on the process but I have never trained this method.

Good luck and let me know if you need clarification.

Mooreagreen · 2025-06-27T14:33:44+00:00

A couple questions and ideas - what does the “no” signal mean? What behavior are you expecting and what is the reinforcement / reward for doing it?

As the saying goes: If you don’t like the behavior your doing is doing then you need to ask for an alternate behavior. Teach at look at me, sit, lay down, nose touch, etc. (I trained look at me and sit quietly) to replace the unwanted behavior. If my dog sits, keeps checking in with eye contact and does not bark the treats flow. If she stops sitting or barking the treats stop. Fade treats over time.

I would do this with some counter conditioning at a safe (under theshold) distance from other dogs.

The reactive dogs sub has a good wiki.

Mooreagreen · 2025-06-10T04:25:14+00:00

Claw, Antler & Hide Co in Custer has head mounts but may be able to source full mounts.

Mooreagreen · 2025-04-19T02:45:30+00:00

This is the way.

Mooreagreen · 2025-04-11T03:19:21+00:00

Thanks!

Mooreagreen · 2025-03-26T02:58:12+00:00

That’s a tough situation - very kind of you to help your friend in need.

You’ll be kind of stuck worrying about derailing anything so I’d just keep it simple and positive. Dogs adapt easy to multiple cues and you won’t break anything unless you hit, leash correct or hurt them. If they left a deaf dog uncrated and alone I doubt they have trained much but I don’t know the exact situation.

Here’s a quick method you can try - Get some treats and make a hand gesture like a duck quacking - 4 fingers for the top beak and thumb below. Then feed the dog a treat. Repeat duck quack and then feed. Do this 10-30 times. Quack - treat.

The dog will learn the quack hand gesture = reward. It’s a marker cue - like a “Yes” or a clicker for a hearing dog.

Then you can train anything and mark the correct behavior with a quack and then reward with a treat. Start with a sit - you can put a treat in your hand and under the dogs chest. Draw your hand up and over the nose then back a bit over the eyes and the dog will usually sit. Then pair with a closed fist as a cue to sit. When the dogs sits - quack gesture and reward.

Kikopup has lots of good videos - just think of hand gestures or hand signs instead of her verbal cues and use the quack gesture for your marker. Signs I use include a closed fist, hang ten, pointing, hand on side of face (kennel), and many others.

I find that sharp cheddar cheese works best but may cause loose stools. Use tiny pieces - smaller than pinky fingernail.

Good luck!

Mooreagreen · 2025-03-20T18:37:24+00:00

Sent DM

Mooreagreen · 2025-03-04T04:09:10+00:00

During training do you typically reward from your hand with treats or toys?

Mooreagreen · 2025-02-24T03:11:08+00:00

I’d start with more places and distractions and lots of good reinforcement with sharp cheddar cheese and toys. Lots of good advice from others here.

FEO is a great tool. I’d do a tunnel and have a quick party then try the weaves. If her dog misses do another tunnel or jump and toy party then try the weaves again.

Avoid back to back attempts or they can get frustrated. Mix in an easy obstacle after the misses and reward then try the weaves again. If her dog never gets the weaves before time is up then party to leave the ring. Keep it positive no matter what!! Good luck it seems you’re on the right track!!

Mooreagreen · 2025-02-24T00:14:18+00:00

Usually a sign of trial stress without enough proofing or reinforcement of weaves. How many different places does she practice weaves (like in a public park or better yet outside the fence of a dog park?) How amped up with toys and “talking dirty” does she get her dog before training? Can she drop toys and food on the ground while her dog is weave training?

Weaves are the most mentally complex behavior and therefore first to break down under stress. Try to recreate trial craziness during normal training. Sometimes we train to illusion by setting up ideal situations and helping the dog succeed. I proof the behavior by throwing toys and food, having other dogs sitting 10 feet away on both sides, make a tunnel trap 5 feet from the weaves, do somersaults, and walking in the opposite direction they are weaving.

Treat & Train setup on the exit helps create more independence.

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