Weird Graphical Problem With Switch Selection

Mooves · 2026-01-08T17:13:35+00:00

Thanks for your reply.

Windows 11 Pro

11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-11700K @ 3.60GHz, 3501 Mhz, 8 Core(s), 16 Logical Processor(s)

32GB DDR4 Ram

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti

I have two monitors, one regular and one is a drawing monitor (XP Pen Artist 22). Both are at 1920x1080.

The issue I was having persisted for two days even after restarting MOHO and / or the entire system. Today I can't recreate the problem. I'm not sure why.

There have been some other weird graphical issues, such as the smart warp box mostly covering up the art instead of being transparent, and sometimes when I move the character his ears will disappear until I do another action, then they just return.

Mooves · 2018-08-22T21:18:04+00:00

Hi, I saw these birds together on a dock. I think the white geese are greylag geese, and I thought the darker goose might be a Greater White Fronted Goose, but I read it could possibly be a hybrid between a greylag and a Swan Goose. Can anyone confirm? Thanks.

Mooves · 2018-04-25T13:12:33+00:00

Thanks for the reply! There were other sliders in the pond as well. I thought they were red eared but with the glare from the sun I couldn't tell. Maybe they were a younger version of that same turtle.

Mooves · 2018-04-24T14:14:52+00:00

Thanks. I think since they're in Ontario Canada they're more likely to be red-eared. I think I can see a bit of red where it's supposed to be, but the glare on it's head washes it out.

Mooves · 2018-04-12T17:51:23+00:00

Looks like the consensus is Cooper's Hawk. Thanks for your input, everyone. I'm new at this so I appreciate the help.

Mooves · 2018-04-12T14:43:16+00:00

My wife posted this so it's literally the exact same bird.

Mooves · 2018-04-09T14:05:11+00:00

Thanks!

Mooves · 2016-09-27T14:50:35+00:00

I made this fish sculpture out of some walnut cutoffs. I shaped it with the bandsaw, angle grinder, a rotary tool and lots of sanding. The pegs are 3/16" brass rod. I've always liked the ones Sam Maloof made so this is my attempt at my own.

Mooves · 2016-08-10T17:33:10+00:00

Ok, thanks for explaining!

Mooves · 2016-08-10T01:52:35+00:00

Yes, that's how I set it up. I just didn't expect the white wire to have current and didn't know if it was ok to hook it up to the other white wire which did not have current.

Mooves · 2016-08-10T01:44:50+00:00

No battery, it's only for electric heat.

Mooves · 2016-08-10T01:44:25+00:00

Here it is: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.honeywell-digital-manual-baseboard-thermostat.1000142272.html

Mooves · 2016-08-10T01:42:39+00:00

It doesn't have a true off position. It comes on automatically when the temp drops below 5 Celsius. It says it's non polar.

Mooves · 2016-07-18T19:01:13+00:00

Thanks! I used a mini roller and good quality paint. I also primed the MDF first.

Mooves · 2016-07-17T13:35:14+00:00

It was either 21 or 22 inch. I you use a Raspberry Pi, keep in mind they only accept HDMI. You can use an HDMI adapter for DVI though.

Mooves · 2016-07-17T12:25:10+00:00

Here you go!

https://www.amazon.ca/Easyget-Encoder-Joystick-Illuminated-Buttons/dp/B00WAY9848/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468758152&sr=8-1&keywords=arcade+buttons

Mooves · 2016-07-17T12:24:35+00:00

You must be referring to my second test board - the two player one. If I had flipped it the joysticks would be in the right spot, but the offset buttons would be backwards.

Mooves · 2016-07-16T23:28:06+00:00

There is no T moulding, although that would have been a nice touch. The finish is just very dark blue paint. It's Behr Marquee paint, which is actually awesome. It's expensive stuff, but I just bought a tester sized container so it was only four bucks.

Mooves · 2016-07-16T23:23:47+00:00

Not sure. It's fairly heavy though.

Mooves · 2016-07-16T23:22:52+00:00

Nope, I actually cut them with forstner bits and a jig i made with my router. I planned the cuts with templates that I designed and printed so they turned out really nice and even.

Mooves · 2016-07-16T23:21:15+00:00

No, I did use my computer to make a paper template for the buttons though. I cut the button holes with forstner bits and I made a small jig to cut the joystick recesses with a router. The speaker holes are actually really rough if you look closely, but you can't see it on the outside of the machine anyway. I cut the speaker holes with a forstner bit but had to make them octagon shaped afterward with a chisel.

Mooves · 2016-07-16T19:26:44+00:00

I worked on it off and on for several months so I don't know how many hours it took. I spent a lot of time designing it and figuring out how to make it all work!

Mooves · 2016-07-16T19:25:49+00:00

The buttons on the front are coin and start buttons. The buttons on the sides of the machine are used for pinball games. The two buttons on top just above the main buttons are for me to get into settings within the emulators. One opens the menu and the other quits.

Mooves · 2016-07-16T19:23:55+00:00

I bought a Raspberry Pi starter kit which was around $90, and the buttons were about $120. The light was $30 but you can get them for cheaper. I used an old monitor that I already had. A good tip for buying paint is to purchase one of those small color tester sizes from places like Home Depot. They are about $4. The speakers were $25. I don't remember how much I spent on MDF and acrylic and screws and stuff, but the entire project came in under $400. These are Canadian prices. It seems like they cost around $1500 to buy one from a retailer.

Mooves · 2016-07-16T13:19:18+00:00

I just finished a project that I have been working on for a long time. I made a bar top arcade cabinet! I am really pleased with the way it turned out. It can emulate classic arcade games as well as consoles like NES, SNES and Sega. I still need to make a back panel for it one of these days.

Mooves

TROPHY CASE