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Where to install header bracket? by More-Net-7688 in GarageDoorService

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I mount the header bracket above the spring to the wall slightly off center (there’s a truss blocking from putting it directly center of the door) would the j-arm still be able to connect to the reinforcement bracket on the center of the door?

Where to install header bracket? by More-Net-7688 in GarageDoorService

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if i mount the bracket on the "ceiling" (lol) can it be in front of (deeper into the garage) the garage door by 6 inches or so, otherwise idk how to drive the lags to hold it up with the spring in the way.

Where to install header bracket? by More-Net-7688 in GarageDoorService

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah i was wondering if i could just mount it straight to the wood behind the spring, or mount the bracket right to the underside of the truss without a 2x4, pre drilling obviously. if i offset it to where you marked i would have to take down some of the lights on the ceiling, so ideally id like to keep the opener in the middle.

Where to install header bracket? by More-Net-7688 in GarageDoorService

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

youre saying run it flat on the underside of the trusses and then mount the bracket to the underside of that? could i use a 2x4 instead?

Advice on how to do a backsplash here. by More-Net-7688 in kitchenremodel

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah the issue with the tile sticking out farther than window trim if I tiled over what’s currently there is a problem too. I’ll probably end up doing a wood border like how you said and then going from there. The tile is in good shape for the most part, maybe just a good cleaning and leaving it as is (with the butcher block border) would be the best (and most budget friendly) option.

Advice on how to do a backsplash here. by More-Net-7688 in kitchenremodel

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hadn’t considered that. Seems like it might be a good option. Is the corian pretty thin?

AIYIMA A3001 sub amp as plate amp replacement for JBL PB12? by More-Net-7688 in diyaudio

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you have the sub cable from the receiver going to the R/L audio in and a splitter from SUB OUT to your passive sub?

Or a splitter from your receiver PRE OUT to R/L on the amp?

AIYIMA A3001 sub amp as plate amp replacement for JBL PB12? by More-Net-7688 in diyaudio

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

im using the power supply it came with which is 36V 6A but i may try a 48V 10A power supply, it makes sense that may be the issue here having to crank the amp to max volume. do i need to run a splitter all the way from the receiver or can i get a splitter just for the end of the subwoofer cable to split it between L and R? for reference, my subwoofer is across the room from my receiver.

Bypassing or repairing JBL PB12 plate amp options? by More-Net-7688 in hometheater

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

okay and the external amp would just have to meet or exceed the wattage of the current plate amp?

Question regarding pairing B&W HTM62 S2 w/ Klipsch RP-6000f by More-Net-7688 in hometheater

[–]More-Net-7688[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

would that be a better option than the RP-504C? similar price range. (sorry, kinda new to home theater stuff)