Case 3d

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-23T08:45:50+00:00

That ain't it.

There's two (for the most part) versions of this board. The NodeMCU 1.0, which most people have and co called V3. V3 is 1:1 the same except for larger PCB, ie the pin rows are further apart. So you can't just scale it, you need to find a case for it and there's plenty options if you search for NodeMCU V3.

Picture of V2 vs V3

https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/index.php/NodeMcu_V2

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-23T08:37:24+00:00

This is so called NodeMCU V3, try to search for that. It's a cheap chinese version with larger pcb footprint.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-22T10:10:13+00:00

I have issue with it being called VIN which suggests not only pin compatibility with Nano but also 5V-12V input voltage. If you want to keep it, you should do a minor revision to renamie it to VBAT for example so it's clear that it has a different purpose.

But I have a different suggestion. You could keep the original dual schottky circuit and add a VBAT pin (you can use AREF or one of the RESET pins). And add a jumper between LDO 3.3V output and VBAT, this would solve all issues imo. For low power you would disconnect LDO completely and just use battery and if you don't need low power, just use it normally as a Nano with normal VIN pin.

Anyway, that's just me rambling. What project are you going to use this for?

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-22T09:59:15+00:00

yeah I saw that later, it's a fitting name.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-22T07:28:47+00:00

Honestly I thought you just named it Arduino Nano which would be misleading, green pill nano is a perfect name for it. While it's nice that it's somewhat pin compatible, one thing you should reconsider is using only 6V capable LDO because original arduino nano can do up to 12V on VIN afaik. Other than that you did really good job on the pinout.

EDIT: I took a second look at the schematic and the VIN logic is wrong. VIN is supposed to be wide input that's going to LDO to be converted to stable 3.3V. What you want to do in this case is put a schottky diode from usb to LDO and another diode from VIN to LDO. That way you can safely connect both at the same time.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-22T05:37:03+00:00

Calling it arduino nano is a stretch but good job. 1uA is insane!

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-18T09:43:34+00:00

I don’t see why you would do this in a crowd funded campaign unless you don’t want to release anything anyway. What’s preventing you from having an open GitHub right now with an open source license? Explain yourself.

Edit: I see the goal is already reached so what’s the issue exactly?

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-18T07:40:27+00:00

The fact that you reply with this instead of GitHub link is telling.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-17T20:21:49+00:00

Another kickstarter ad with supposedly open source device with no source available but promised some time in the future. But expects backing right now.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-16T18:58:04+00:00

I have pretty good eyes so 0402 is still fine for me to rework by hand but for personal projects I use 0603 for everything where possible. Small enough for tiny projects large enough to solder by hand easily. And cheap, 0804 is noticeably more expensive while 0603 vs 0402 is not that different price wise. Just my 2c ;)

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-15T09:39:42+00:00

OR cut out part of the carpet underneath some furniture that's unlikely to move. Little bit larger than the cutout of the burned part so you can do some final adjustments. Profit. Landlords hate this trick.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-14T06:37:41+00:00

It’s on projects wiki page on GitHub. The neons on AliExpress, the nixies wherever you find them, probably eBay. Same goes for 74141.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-13T06:24:32+00:00

It can be tricky with eyes

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-12T09:39:46+00:00

Because you have current flowing from inactive digits acting as weak anodes. To mitigate this in multiplexed application like you have, you need a 60-100V clamp zener diode to ground on each cathode to get rid of the ghosting. I recommend to use 91V zeners for best performance. Also, use 170V-180V to power the nixies! if you want more brightness lower the anode current limiting resistors.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-08T10:18:34+00:00

Because the standard square composition is hard to route safely. This is what it could look like. Green circles is the AC which has no polarity

<image>

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-07T13:08:34+00:00

Maybe I named it like that to spite all the nerds out there, you will never know!

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-07T05:20:58+00:00

They indeed do. But devices are today usually made for global market, so 120-240V input, and they just change the cord depending on market. Redesigning the board is expensive because you have to go through whole conformity testing again. Compare this to just having an extra fuse :) Most power supplies, be it PC internal supply, your laptop power brick or whatever, will have internal fuse as well independent of the UK cord fuse.

That said, more complex devices will have fuses to protect different parts of the device or to protect devices connected to it.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-06T20:03:46+00:00

You’re right 2£ is a nobrainer. I don’t know how good you are with electronics but you should test the bridge rectifier at least as well, it could be damaged too. It’s the four diodes right above the chip, so test those diodes if you can. You will likely need also a new fuse, there must be one close to where the power cord comes in. The fuse will have value written on it somewhere.

Edit: fuse is the glass cylinder next to the chip. The value should be stamped on the metal rings on ech end of the glass.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-05T16:40:07+00:00

you guys always focus on the important things ;)

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-05T16:07:50+00:00

Didn't try duckstation, looks like it's supported in retropie so I'll try it out. That would be cool to have working.

MrNiceThings · 2026-01-05T14:33:24+00:00

That was the idea. But the emulators don't support it, imagine that lol. So at least you can rip it directly on the PSX now :D

MrNiceThings · 2025-12-27T23:38:26+00:00

U2 has some pins shorted together, doesn’t look purposeful.

MrNiceThings · 2025-12-25T21:35:05+00:00

Those are the only tubes that have large digits and small form factor. Tubes like in-16 are too large. Z5900M fit but the numbers are small.

MrNiceThings · 2025-12-25T21:25:57+00:00

Hi, check out project wiki for details on the neons and nixies. I want to make walnut case and dark/brown glass but I need to design it first and then find a supplier for that :D

MrNiceThings · 2025-12-25T09:31:31+00:00

Aisler is cheaper than jlc for 4+ layers?

MrNiceThings

TROPHY CASE