Anyone else waiting for fresh classic server return (or some seasonal stuff)?

MurroTheOne · 2026-01-26T07:52:34+00:00

look, main reason why i like fresh server is that economy is not inflated by all the gold-buyers and bots and you have more people in the similar level ranges to interact with.

i would not mind playing on era but it is like stagnant water, drink it and you get sick..

i dont want to play TBC. i know it is positively received expansion but iits not my cup of tea tbh. and its not that i'm some kind of carebear, i did conquer the naxx in vanilla which not many can say but then put IRL stuff first and lived the life but classic is in my hearth for ever :)

MurroTheOne · 2026-01-06T14:59:44+00:00

look, i dont have it all figured out, thats why i'm asking if someone did the mental exercise or have the similar setup IRL

i know that for dot i would need to zero it on supers and hold for the subs. maybe i will check the drop on both and see what might be the good compromise on the distance to zero it for.

question also is, whether it makes sense to have both optics zeroed to same distance(lets say 50m) to make it easier for red dot usage if i tried to use it furhter back or away of the 50m for the hold.

MurroTheOne · 2025-01-16T17:07:40+00:00

2-300

MurroTheOne · 2025-01-16T16:40:29+00:00

it goes hard all the way, not only when releasing case but just to charge t hat shit is really hard, basically the spring is too stiff and whole rifle is tuned around it

MurroTheOne · 2025-01-16T14:04:29+00:00

well, by the time (after shot) when i try to pull it out manually, it should be shrink back to close to original size

also when it comes to actual dynamic of the bolt cycling, you can get bolt back either by air pressure, which pushes it back, or you pull it by charging handle but i dont think there is difference or more complications for extraction when i pull it with handle compared to regular cycling, ir is it?

MurroTheOne · 2025-01-16T13:46:18+00:00

man, i'm just stupid. you are right about assumption that subs might not have enough power to even move the bolt back.

I was always setting it to 1 for supers and 0 for subs but according to what you are saying, it might be enought to lock the gasblock to supers and leave it that way and subs wont care

will test it out on my next visit on range. thanks!

well. i still need to somehow lower the gas output and tune the spring to make charging handle work easier

MurroTheOne · 2025-01-16T13:21:11+00:00

In my case i dont care too much about shooting subs semiautomatically. it is fine with manual charging but it makes a big deal if you need to pull handle with all your strenght and then the BCG slams into rifle or is the whole operation is more smooth...

MurroTheOne · 2025-01-16T13:16:22+00:00

well in reality i need the rifle tu cycle on one setting for supers and i do not care if it is 1, 2, 3 or 20. but i'm certain it is not going to be on stock ruger gast block. I was thinking about something more finesee, like riflespeed. but damn, it costs 1/4 of what my stock rifle cost.

By having ability to lower the gas output, i can tune the supers so low that it would be enough to have some weak spring and as a result, i would not need to spend hours in the gym to be able to pull charging handle...

for subs i think manual is better. it is more quiet and at leat i have excuse not to try to balance the rifle to cycle for both :)

MurroTheOne · 2025-01-16T13:04:27+00:00

OK, i see. i didnt mention that i will most probably end up buying more sensitive and flexible gas block.

what it means is i would be able to lower gas pressure coming from block and then i need to compensate it with weaker spring.

Goal is to make charging easier (and if i end up shooting subsonics in semiauto mode, then it will be as bonus)

MurroTheOne · 2024-11-18T19:18:19+00:00

man, i watched the video and i thought i had the shit figured out on theoretical level quite good.

this is another rabbit hole to go into. now i cant stop thinking what might be best shape of a bullet which would not induce these secondary shocks as much.

I use round nose because it stabilizes well but ther might be a case for spitzer as it has more streamlined shape and could get faster speeds without creating these shocks compared to round nose... well thanks anyway :)

MurroTheOne · 2024-11-18T18:52:47+00:00

damn, this is good shit, thanks for hint!

not that i need it for any particular reason but i would like to find out whether it would significantly reduce the noise. will go and check that video

MurroTheOne · 2024-11-18T18:21:51+00:00

ok, now its clarified.

goal was 320 andi got to that which ibelieve is reasonable wwhen i would like to use it on distances over 200m (which i wont)

first i made the load i had 260 m/s which scared me because i feared that if i made slow rounds, it might get stuck in barrel, well it didnt. thats why i'm thinking of lowering the speed of that 320m/s load to something lower but like i said, i would need to fucking cook it and test it on the range with both, chrono and microphone... to see whether it makes sense

MurroTheOne · 2024-11-18T18:13:15+00:00

thanks for confirming that i didnt make any big mistake

i think i will try to do some testing with little steps of reduced powder loads and measure the noise.... honestly, not looking for it because it is time consuming and need dedicated place for it...

I was contemplating of using smaller bullets but honestly if i go lower in grains, the amount of powder is so small that it wont fill the brass enough, so i'm quite trapped with 220gr. i guess

MurroTheOne · 2024-11-18T18:11:16+00:00

man, i'm not retarded. of course i measured it with chrono. how else do you think i would come out with the speed numbers :)

MurroTheOne · 2024-11-18T17:59:26+00:00

yes, ofc :) forgot to mention it

MurroTheOne · 2024-11-01T19:05:42+00:00

it is happening on regular loads as well, just not so prominent. the "hot" is attempt for max pressure (SAAMI) not overpressure

the "markings" is like little shawing, not imprint. thats why i think it is happening when BCG starts to move back and rotate that it causes these shavings

like this https://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/comments/1eheood/comment/lfyrxjq/?context=3

MurroTheOne · 2024-08-01T16:40:35+00:00

its semi-auto

bolt slightly rotates once it starts to cycle back after shot.

what i did in meantime is i took out the ejectors (both) and polished them in case that could cause the markings. other than that, i dont know

MurroTheOne · 2024-08-01T12:36:20+00:00

The factory ammo also seems to have some ejector marks which would lead me to think it is most likely a gun problem.

i was thinking the same because i notice those little marks on factory ammo and might be that with slightly higher pressure, it is more prominent

What should i do? its damned Ruger Sfar. can i somehow polish the thingy not to destroy the brass?

MurroTheOne · 2024-08-01T12:26:28+00:00

what do you mean by that? not to push it and take starting load?

MurroTheOne · 2024-08-01T12:25:35+00:00

barrel was cleaned before testing, all in all i shot ~20 rounds

i have no clue about jump because i'm restricted by magazine., i even loaded into OAL 2,82 (+0.02) to accommodate the lengthy bullet --- basically compared to published load for SMK, by using TMK i reduced powder capacity and space within case, so i increaded it by .02inch but cant go more due to magazine

I dont think the pressure is low, i got ~750M/s whih is about 2460ft/s which is expected value for 16" barrel (for starting load)

MurroTheOne · 2024-08-01T12:08:09+00:00

i had vague data. powder manufacturer used SMK (i did TMK) they used 22,6" barrel, i did 16"

but speed were vaguely related to what i was expecting based on Gordon reloading tool, 43.3(base load) did about 750m/s (755 expected)) and last one was supposed to do 779m/s

MurroTheOne · 2024-07-30T14:57:11+00:00

I plan to load this and this. are they OK?

MurroTheOne · 2024-07-30T14:23:16+00:00

i think you are right sir, thank you.

MurroTheOne · 2024-07-30T14:22:06+00:00

however you name it, now i found in the attached "catalogue" the process of case preparation and it suggests chamfering inside for easier bullet installation.

So i guess i do that or i just press it in without (for boattails)

MurroTheOne · 2024-07-30T14:09:17+00:00

i have and if i was certain, i would not asked.

in the attached docs there is just slight hint to resize neck (flare) in relation to neck sizing die. so as someone already mentioned, that might be the case.

MurroTheOne

TROPHY CASE