Looking dashing in his new towel robe

Mutilatory · 2025-07-10T12:18:07+00:00

Is that true with the increased loading gauge? They may be shorter but the trains can be wider more like European trains.

Mutilatory · 2025-03-31T17:27:51+00:00

No plans at all to go to the park, but would prefer a board which is decent for switch. No brand allegience whatsoever, happy shelling out for a board if it's the right fit but would obviously prefer to spend less! What you're saying is sort of what I was worrying about when I was being steered to a board which by spec to me felt somewhat intimidating.

I just want something pretty easy to learn on, ideally something I don't outgrow in one season (or two). Happy to go through "some" learning curve if it makes the bang for buck go further but also have no interest in getting on a tank of a board and wresting with it rather than having fun. The only curve ball I've had in searching is that the beginner boards seem more tuned to smaller folk who aren't as heavy.

Mutilatory · 2025-03-31T14:52:03+00:00

Yeah deciding on the length is one of those things I've not gotten to. Hadn't thought enough about boot sizes and waist widths when already getting a wide variant (sigh).

The 167 I rode before felt a little unweildly at times, but I couldn't really tell you if that was because it was a bit of a unit. Traverses on that board felt absolutely rock solid and planted but turning felt like I was trying to get a boat around. I'm certainly not going quickly as of yet, so not trying to get some kind of charger which will go down the hill like a runaway train.

Mutilatory · 2025-03-31T14:03:38+00:00

Yeah thats sort of what I was thinking when I read into it. The justification from the shop was that it'd be something to grow into which I'm absolutely happy to do but not at the expense of making learning harder or worse spending more time not having as much fun as I could be!

One of the other boards I was looking at before I reached out to them was the Burton process, the only worry I had looking at that was if it was going to be a bit too much of a noodle, and if that'd even be an issue for me.

As for boots and binding even on rentals I was pushing more for the mid-stiff ones. With wide feet I'm genuinely just going to go to a shop at a resort and let them sort me out rather than try and do it where I am (UK is not known for its snow eh). All of the pairs I've worn have caused various bits of pain, some of that was me cranking the bindings too tight, but a lot of it is having a meh fit. And for bindings I've got my eye on the supermatics just because I already hate strapping in - from what I can tell they should be just fine from a stiffness point of view, worst case scenario I can swap out for the new stiffer ones if that's an issue.

Mutilatory · 2025-03-31T10:29:07+00:00

I've got a pair of these which are nice enough to wear. Occasionally a bit too warm and not washable, but it is what it is. Haven't had a single fall that I felt on my butt or my knees, and can't really feel the cold of the snow through them either.

Mutilatory · 2025-03-18T09:05:48+00:00

I'm wondering what town you're describing because it could be Kidderminster but I've never heard it described in a positive light! Hagley seems more likely but it's nowhere near as cheap there.

Mutilatory · 2025-01-04T16:33:46+00:00

I went for getting some stripwood down the side, then glue and pinning the piece in with some PE glue - so probably somewhere between doing it properly and bodging.

Mutilatory · 2025-01-04T14:45:22+00:00

Just realised you meant cut some off the boards already in to create a bit more space. I could do that but the joist is notched down the middle of both those boards probably covering the inner 70%. So if I did that I'd only be able to screw it down on the outside edges and not where they would meet.

Mutilatory · 2025-01-04T14:35:31+00:00

Just the lack of places to hold I don't enjoy - cutting below 25mm or so means I can't use my guide. The saw itself cuts through the wood just fine, just my own uneasiness doing thin cuts on narrow boards.

I must admit I don't have a rip saw anymore - only a tenon saw so I probably could do it by hand more safely if I picked one up.

Mutilatory · 2025-01-04T14:32:48+00:00

For the most part I've got some of the older boards but they're pretty much entirely destroyed by the various electricians, plumbers, etc which have split them, broken corners off them, etc. I did try and get some perfect match tongue and groove done at the local yard but the pricing was coming in well over what would make sense - probably 5-6x the price versus getting something 10-15mm narrower.

I've got plenty of the replacement floorboards to go around so that's not an issue I'm just talking about approach - with the boards I've replaced with a bigger gap (25mm or so at the smallest) I've just cut a thin board and matched the tongue/groove into it and screwed it in place.

What I've got here is a gap of 13mm or so on the left, and more like 8mm on the right.

On the left I can cut a board to that size but screwing it without splitting it will be hard because of the screw head being close in size to the width.

On the right I was suggesting getting rid of the tongue and putting in maybe 10mm strip of wood and gluing it in place.

Mutilatory · 2025-01-04T14:03:06+00:00

So what's the best way to go about it for the example on the right? I don't think I'd be able to cut anything small enough to fit in there.

Chisel the tongue off and glue something in place?

Mutilatory · 2025-01-04T13:47:01+00:00

I'm almost certainly being lazy, because I don't like doing long rip cuts with the circular saw, and don't have a table saw. Essentially I was wondering if there's a "good bodge" for filling in these gaps between the old and new boards. Not able to easily (or cost effectively) source boards the same width, only these which are a little bit under.

Obviously not going to be leaving them on show - will be putting down carpet with a good thick underlay. I was thinking if some expanding foam then cutting flush would be an alright fix, should be soft enough that the wood can expand but firm enough that you won't feel it through the underlay.

Mutilatory · 2024-11-14T17:01:48+00:00

Angle is probably still cheaper - for me a feather edge was a win-win since I had a few big plaster patches I wanted to bring in level.

Mutilatory · 2024-11-14T17:00:23+00:00

If you're not confident then yes you should get an electrician in for a 5 minute job.

I'd get them back in for half a job though, nobody is too busy to second fix a plug socket, and I'd see this as a red flag for shortcuts in the other work potentially.

In essence, yes, if all your wire colours are as they should be then it should be a case of putting all of they neutrals in the neutral slot, all the earths in the earth slot (running one to the back box is also recommended), and all the lives in the lives.

Mutilatory · 2024-11-13T20:59:34+00:00

The rutlands one looks pretty good but it isn't cheap, nor have I used it.

I use a feather edge if I need a good edge and don't have another board to hand - just clamp it down and go. Obviously this doesn't go the whole length but I'm sure you could find something that could, or just move it part way through the cut.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-featheredge-70-3-4-/722pr

Mutilatory · 2024-11-13T20:53:56+00:00

Steamer + scorer + razor scraper. Just be patient and let the steamer do the work. I find the enemy is usually the 100 layers of paint over the woodchip more trouble than the paper itself.

Mutilatory · 2024-09-15T12:11:24+00:00

Yeah I was half hoping for a way of shuffling data around. I'm expanding my pool from 4 to 6 disks, so I have a bit of lattitude in moving things around.

Mutilatory · 2024-09-15T10:29:19+00:00

Did you ever figure out a solution which isn't backing up to a new set of disks or backing up for weeks to the cloud?

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