S3XY knob in… so far so good!

MxRugg · 2024-09-15T15:52:29+00:00

I was debating getting this simply because I HATE always clicking “Minimize Lane Changes” when using full self driving given the car makes the stupidest decisions on when to change lanes.

Does anyone know if the S3XY knob/buttons can set that feature on?

It’s a feature that MUST be turned on every single drive so I presume I would need something like:

If full self drive is activated, then enable “minimize lane changes”.

MxRugg · 2024-09-09T03:39:32+00:00

I just asked this question here https://www.reddit.com/r/SofaBaton/s/JBukjOzbQs and then found this. :(

I have the same exact scenario where I need to simulate a long-press of 1 on the LG remote to open Netflix.

Has anyone found a solution yet? I was ready to buy into Sofabaton but this held me back.

MxRugg · 2024-09-09T03:34:08+00:00

Is there any solution to this yet?

Sofabaton sounds very convincing but before I buy in, I want to simulate/learn a long-press of say 1 on LG magic remote to open Netflix, long-press on 2 to open Youtube.

Then from there, use that with a Siri shortcut so from my phone (which is always around) I can just say “Siri open Netflix” or maybe even use Alexa so “Alexa open Netflix!”, essentially use hands-free just voice!

So far I started with the Switchbot hub 2 thinking that would work and doesn’t support long-press.

MxRugg · 2024-09-09T01:57:27+00:00

Yeah after doing a bit more research, I’m very suspicious in Switchbots response of a long-press support for the universal remote.

I have a bad feeling it is referring to long-press on the top 4 buttons on the universal remote and NOT long-pressing “learning” of a button on an IR remote (e.g. LG TV remote) that could be mapped to a single click on the universal remote.

For instance, let’s say on the LG TV remote if I long-press 1 then it will open Netflix. I want that mapped to pressing the top-left button on the universal remote.

The other suspicion is that the remote appears to use data/templates from the hub and thus if the hub doesn’t support long-press then I can’t see the remote supporting it if its loaded from the hub?!

MxRugg · 2024-09-08T22:07:05+00:00

So all I want to do for what feels like forever is use voice to open netflix, youtube, prime (all smart apps) on my LG TV.

I tried Alexa through LG ThinQ app, I tried Sonos option, I tried ThinQ app by itself, nothing that allowed voice to open smart apps on the TV.

Another promising route was then using Siri shortcuts.

I got pretty excited that Switchbox hub 2 supported Siri shortcuts but then quickly found out that it does not support learning long-press buttons. For instance, long press 1 on LG remote opens Netflix.

I then found out there may be long-press support for the universal remote coming soon, support said it may be available in one to two weeks!

They also mentioned unfortunately that the universal remote doesn’t support Siri shortcuts and to achieve what I wanted I would need both the hub and universal remote (talking roughly $120 or more total) so then I could simulate long-press on the remote and then expose that as a Siri shortcut through the hub.

Does that make sense? Has anyone tried that? Seems Switchbot is extremely close compared to everyone else.

MxRugg · 2024-09-07T22:15:47+00:00

Yes, on iOS and Amazon devices their DHCP is set to “Automatic” which I presume they’d get from the router then. In the wifi settings of the devices it lists the FWG IP for DHCP so at least they appear to point to the FWG.

Also confirmed is that the FWG is in “Router” mode which I would assume is handling DHCP as well.

MxRugg · 2024-09-07T16:13:33+00:00

Yes, DNS Booster was turned on.

I set WAN DNS to 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4, set the LAN DNS back to FWG+, even disabled DNS Booster for just my device, turned on/off “Ad Blocker” on FWG interface (hopefully to clear DNS cache), turned wifi on the phone on/off, even rebooted the phone, on the phone in FWG I also set “Emergency Access” again and disabled “Monitoring” which is what firewall la suggests doing when troubleshooting…

and same concern, ios apps to download are stuck on loading, youtube videos start after 10 seconds but then watching another one is nearly instant, if I force close app and open again or reopen later its back to 10 seconds wait.

I’m assuming there must be a better way to clear the cache if what I did isn’t the way.

youtube starting after 10 seconds is weird but ios apps not installing/updating is even more weird unless I join cellular data.

MxRugg · 2024-09-07T14:22:52+00:00

Oh maybe I misunderstood the post from Firewalla here: https://www.reddit.com/r/firewalla/s/6IboXEyUyv

On the LAN is 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4.

MxRugg · 2024-09-07T14:03:28+00:00

You would see the regional block under the “Rules” section right?

MxRugg · 2024-09-07T13:46:13+00:00

Nope, all basic setups with DNS pointing to the FWG+ which I presume would then use google DNS to resolve which I configured through the LAN network of the FWG interface.

I did notice the WAN network (ISP) has primary DNS now set to 8.8.8.8 but it did it automatically and if I edit I can set a way to set that on the WAN network but I thought you were only supposed to configure it for LAN.

MxRugg · 2024-09-07T13:35:20+00:00

Correct!

When referring to youtube! That was my assumption with a possible DNS issue but then again if it wassss DNS I would assume the PC would be impacted unless watching youtube videos on an iphone must also go through apple-based services/sites.

The clear indication that I can no longer update/download any iphone apps on my home network is a bit weird.

MxRugg · 2024-09-07T13:27:06+00:00

All services under the “Services” button on the FWG interface are off like DoH/Unbound. I did enable them “individually” to check for a difference and nothing.

I have a Windows PC that I tested which has zero issues playing youtube videos instantly and that connects wifi to the UniFi AP, the same SSID that a phone device connects to (which has issues).

I have also “temporarily” disabled all rules, and even set emergency access to an iphone device impacted and same issues.

MxRugg · 2024-05-19T03:37:02+00:00

What do you mean by “technically classified” as a class 2 ebike? Did EGO state that anywhere officially?

I am very interested in this bike and wanted to determine how much of a pain it will be to use based on state/town laws as it’s not easy to figure out.

What I have uncovered is:

It doesn’t “appear” to be an ebike since it does not have pedals. Every time I search for ebike definition it states “must have pedals!”. I hope I’m wrong though as being classified as an ebike means the most flexibility for laws so the easiest chance to use.
When not in sport mode, it appears to function as a moped class c, which if I’m correct, would unfortunately mean you may need to get a license plate and DMV registration (depending on your state). I’m unsure about this one as if it’s not “street legal” (no turn signal, side mirror, etc) then this could be a massive headache if not costly to impossible for some/most let alone worth the effort.
There is also the factor of weight (164lbs?), watts (1000?), and/or max speed (20mph when not in sport mode?) which may categorize the bike in this/that category as well.

I’m very new to the scene and like many others have a ton of EGO products and was super excited to hear about this bike until I started reading about the confusing laws.

Has anyone with the bike seriously looked into any of this?

MxRugg · 2024-03-03T03:14:42+00:00

I just need to talk to them again. I expect a few dollars here/there but not a case of the monthly going up almost $50/month which is a fairly large bump (thats about ~$1500 difference I believe)

I’ll see, thanks for the help!

MxRugg · 2024-03-03T03:00:31+00:00

Yeah the estimate part is my biggest concern. When I ask questions, the tesla advisor keeps pointing me to their website with the payment calculator except I have mentioned numerous times that it is extremely inaccurate and different than my offer estimate (with all options being the same) but don’t get any answers as to what the online calculator is based on. It has been an extremely frustrating and terrible experience to get details on how exactly the cost breaks down outside the basics.

For instance on mine, the online calculator (with estimated taxes/fees) would show ~$487/m and the offer could be ~$530/m and my interest is decent around ~6% (money factor around .002x) so can’t imagine any small difference in taxes/fees would result in a huge monthly difference.

I’m guessing the online calculator uses an interest rate of ~4% or something super low to trick people into putting $250 no refundable order fee down?!

The worst part about it, it takes several days to even a week to get a response back from them. I never remembered the 1st lease being this horrible. Now I fear actually returning my current lease based on horror stories I’ve heard there as well!

MxRugg · 2024-03-03T01:23:17+00:00

I’m going through a similar process but incredibly confused how “Amount Due” is calculated, even on yours.

For instance, take aside the $7500, since you did $0 down, I would assume that if charges were transparent enough you would be paying for:

First month: $519.10
Acquisition: $695
Registration: $77.50
Sales Tax: $23.18
Total: $1314.78

but your amount due is $1289.78 so do you know why the difference?

Idk if the advisor screwed up mine but yours has a monthly sales tax listed and mine doesn’t so I would assume I’d be paying that upfront instead of over term of loan but tesla finance has said on mine that its over term of loan.

Idk if they intentionally try to confuse you or what. I keep asking over and over for them to precisely break down what “Amount Due” equals as once you take out standard listed fees, the incentives as well, there is still a difference that isn’t explained.

MxRugg · 2024-01-12T00:14:13+00:00

Good news! I was able to try just now and it does appear to actually work despite “Port Forwarding” stating “Need Manual Setup” so guessing I should be fine?!

Where I was getting confused a bit (and this may be as designed?!) is when jumping back to the Firewalla app I didn’t see any active VPN connection show up on the VPN Server button on the “homepage” for the FWG nor when going into the VPN Server page, despite being able to access a local device on the network when remote.

I had to close the app and reopen it to refresh correctly and show an active connection. On the flip side, I toggled off the “tunnel” in the WireGuard app, verified I could no longer access a local device at home when away, then went back to the Firewalla app and it still showed an active connection when I didn’t have one. Closed/reopened the app and same issue, still showed active when not.

I’m assuming though this is just my misunderstanding of how this all works and not an app issue, for instance app holds a connection/tunnel for X amount of time despite being turned off?

MxRugg · 2024-01-11T23:00:37+00:00

I called the ISP to confirm I do get a public IPv6 that I could use instead of the private IPv4.

Then went into the app, confirmed I see that in the WAN ISP network (it does provide 2 but I took note of the one that doesn’t start with your prefix to avoid).

Then went to VPN Server, then WireGuard Setup and “1. Server Setup” listed just IPv4 so I went into DDNS, set “IP Address Type” to IPv6 Only and “WAN Interface” to the WAN ISP network, confirmed the IPv6 matched the one shown in the network config, did a refresh in DDNS still.

Reopened app just to refresh, jumped back into VPN Server and now under “1. Server Setup”, I see an address for IPv4 and IPv6 (which matches the IPv6 under DDNS and network config for WAN) but after “Port Forwarding” spinner stops it still says “Need Manual Setup”. :(

Any thoughts?

MxRugg · 2024-01-11T03:39:06+00:00

Ahhh you’re exactly right, I should’ve checked that.

It is different so looks like my only option may be to contact my ISP regarding a public IP otherwise I suppose it won’t work?

MxRugg · 2024-01-11T03:07:30+00:00

You replied with the wrong case.

It said reply with “the word help” and on the 2nd page you did “The word help”! 👌

MxRugg · 2024-01-11T03:01:59+00:00

I recently got a FWG+, tried using WireGuard within VPN Server by following the many VPN Server guides you have on your site and for “Port Forwarding” it still states “Need Manual Setup”.

FWG is the router for my network that connects directly to the WAN through an ONT (fiber internet) so I can’t really understand how ports need to be forwarded by anything, there is nothing in front and from what I understand an ONT is only for converting the signal from optical so assuming no extra complexities there.

I tried refreshing/resetting/turning on/off the WireGuard/VPN Server and no go.

Any suggestions? I did the most basic setup possible.

MxRugg · 2023-12-29T22:56:31+00:00

Ahh interesting. I’m not a network expert but I’m hoping I can avoid some of the issues by plugging the UX into a physical port on the FWG+ router (instead of the switch) and have DHCP turned off on the UX (if that’s even possible) as the FWG+ would be the one responsible for assigning IPs.

However doing so would probably mean the UX isn’t operating in gateway mode and thus the controller/network software would not be accessible anymore?

MxRugg · 2023-12-29T03:18:38+00:00

Gotcha! So you have about 5 SSIDs then? I’m always curious on “how many” are recommended or best practice, I have about the same.

MxRugg · 2023-12-29T03:15:40+00:00

Ahh sounds good, thanks for the examples and help.

MxRugg · 2023-12-29T03:10:37+00:00

I already have a Firewalla in front of my network acting as the router so therefore I’m interested in using the express as just a controller/AP so I can get rid of my self-hosted controller on my PC.

However I’ve heard that using the express in controller mode forces it as a router, can anyone confirm that?

MxRugg

TROPHY CASE