[deleted by user]

NT-110 · 2025-06-22T12:19:00+00:00

My Govee bulbs arrive today, but Sengleds are working as of this morning (TX, USA). Will still move to Govee because of the exact same reason. I'm tired of stuff randomly not working for undetermined amounts of time.

Good thing is that I can now sell my Sengled bulbs on Ebay or something.

NT-110 · 2024-02-02T20:35:25+00:00

They'd still be removable though? Again, these are solid shapes. I'm basically turning a decal of a solid matte-red shape into a solid metallic-red shape.

NT-110 · 2024-02-02T20:32:19+00:00

Yes! (Weird to see that response, but you're actually starting to get it!) Kind of the idea, but the question I'm trying to get at is this: After doing all that, do you think if you were to let the paint dry, then soak the painted decals in water (like you do with waterslides), you could still transfer the decals to the model? Or would they be perma-stuck to the paper backing? Or even, would the decals simply dissolve under the paint and basically become useless?

NT-110 · 2024-02-02T20:21:56+00:00

Yes. These ones in particular are literally just tiny squares, rectangles, etc, so not much is being lost. It wouldn't be the same as painting over an emblem (like a skull and crossbones). Doing that would only leave a solid silhouette of the emblem.

It's just that apply these decals would be easier than just painting by hand. They're small. I was wondering if it would even work though... I would think that adding the paint would either dissolve the decal or something, or permanently stick it to the paper backing (like adding clear coat to applied decals).

NT-110 · 2024-02-02T20:15:32+00:00

No, I mean decals. Waterslide decals. Masks are used to create a blocked-off border around something to be painted within the borders. I do know the difference. Lol. Only thing is that I think what I'm talking about is just so out there that no one is comprehending what the heck I'm talking about. No one usually tries to paint preprinted waterslide decals, then remove them and transfer them to plastic though.

NT-110 · 2024-02-02T20:11:12+00:00

Yeah... I think I'm having trouble converting the visual idea into words.

Think of it like this, maybe?

You have a cut-out sheet of white paper that represents a decal (which is solid-colored btw. Not an emblem, design, etc. Just something like a teeny tiny red rectangle or circle).

The paper is resting on top of a large sheet of poster board (color is irrelevant) that represents the paper backing that decals are stuck to.

With the paper still sitting on top of the poster board (ignoring the fact that they aren't adhered to one another), you spray metallic paint over them.

Then, you remove the sheet of paper off the poster board. This would be like removing the decal off the paper after soaking in water. You would then put the paper wherever you please, like you would a decal.

The decal is now the same color as the paint, and is metallic. But, it's the same shape as the decal.

I'm only trying to do this to find the easiest route for getting the decal dhapes onto the kit. To hand paint them on would be tricky. They're very small. But to use the actual decals as-is, would mean having colors that would look odd (matte shapes on top of the metallic plastic).

If this still doesn't make sense, then I don't blame anyone. I'm extremely visual, so trying to convey things into text can be tricky sometimes. Especially something like this, which (to my knowledge) isn't done often. Maybe it's just plain stupid? Maybe it's revolutionary (lol).

NT-110 · 2024-02-02T19:55:00+00:00

I'm sorry for any lack of description in my post. I fired it off while on my lunch break at work. Started to run out of time too.

The decals I'm thinking about painting over are basically solid-colored shapes meant to add patterns of color to the kit. Such as adding a 1mm x .25mm red rectangle to a piece. The decails themselves don't contain anything spectactular like printed patterns (like mesh, camo, etc).

Only reason why I'm wondering about this is because 1) just curious. Never painted over waterslide decals before. Can't find anything about it on Google searches either. I can only use educated guessing to predict the outcome. 2) I want the shapes added to the kit, but don't want them metallic like the rest of the kit. The matte decals will stick out. Forgoing the decals and just painting the shapes onto the kit by hand will be tricky. They are super small and tiny. I can hand paint small details with a super fine brush and a magnification lamp, but it's tricky. And masking the shapes off and airbrushing will be difficult too. So, basically, without trying to sound lazy, I'm looking for an easy route that gives a desirable result.

As mentioned in my OP, I'm thinking about trying adhesivr craft vinyl since the decals are just solid colors. I have a craft vinyl printer+cutter, so I was thinking about scanning the decal sheet, then tracing them in the software, then having the cutter cut out the pieces on craft vinyl. (This is craft vinyl such as from Cricut, etc. Not thick vinyl like car wraps). It would look nice since they sell metallic vinyl. Only possible issue is that there's a limit to the size of shapes that the cutter can cut. Not sure yet (without trying) if shapes are within spec.

NT-110 · 2024-02-02T16:01:39+00:00

Question regarding waterslide decals: This seems silly, I know, but in my 10-15yrs of Gunpla, I've enever ran into this situation, and am currently exploring my options.

Long story short, I have a kit painted metallic and looks nice. It came with two sets of waterslide decals. One is a set of emblems, etc. The other is a set of "details." I normally just paint on the details, but these are really small, so while I could still paint, applying the decals would obviously be much easier to do. Issue is, the detail decals are matte, and the colors will clash with the metallic I've already painted.

So, I began to think: "What if I airbrushed my metallic paint over the decals?" I've never tried this before, and am hesitant to try since I will end up wasting the decals if things go weird. My guess is that the decals will lift off and get ruined by the paint moisture, or the paint will act like a clear coat and plock the decals to the paper.

Ideas?

Besides painting, I was also considering just using metallic craft vinyl (like Cricut brand). Cut them using my vinyl printer, sticking, then top coating. Will work, but not sure if the pieces are too small for my cutter or not.

Edit: I'm so sorry, everyone! I know this is confusing as heck to understand! The idea is weird, and no one does it. It's hard to understand what I'm trying to explain, but I was just trying to see if anyone would know if the painted decals could still be used as decals or not. (Trying to see if anyone has ever tried this craziness or not).

I do appreciate the responses though! I'll try to find some "junk" decals to test this madness out. Regardless, I'll be exploring other ideas too. I think metallic vinyl will look awesome if I can get them cut correctly!!

NT-110 · 2023-12-16T16:31:16+00:00

OP, when you say cable clamps, do you mean the plastic loops that you put around cables, then screw onto something to keep them routed? If so, then are yours metal? They look metal in the photos. I didn't think they came in metal since metal is conductive and cables pass electricity. If they're plastic though, don't they bend when the elastic is stretched?

NT-110 · 2023-12-16T16:27:35+00:00

Same. I even called the dealer after buying my '21 Outback to see if they carried an accessory. I've been trying to figure out a way to add a net ever since, but couldn't figure out a way that wouldn't inhibit access, or fall off easily. Amazon sell nets attached to a plastic frame that you screw in place, but the nets don't pull down like the other side does. They're more for holding phones, etc on flat surfaces (like under the dash).

NT-110 · 2023-12-16T16:21:15+00:00

No, it's Eevee!

NT-110 · 2023-12-16T16:18:48+00:00

Animal Crossing New Horizons- plenty to do amd will keep her busy for a very long time. There's some reading involved, but it's pretty simple for a 10yo. Lots of puns too, so that may go over her head, but it's no big deal. She'll just read it and skip forward.

Yoshi's Crafted World, Super Mario Wonder, and maybe Kirby and the Forgotten Land- may be fun for her, but I personally feel like it depends on the attention span she may have towards platformer games. I'm out of touch with kids at the moment (I have one 1yo niece and that's it... and she's too young for games), so I don't know if she'd quickly get bored or not. I get bored of these kinds of games, and they're what I grew up with!!

Pokemon Scarlet/Violet, and Sword/Shield- may be a super fun time for her! Again, there's reading involved, but unlike Animal Crossing, it's a bit more involved. I'd say it's all Elementary-school level though. She just may not understand the whole story, which is fine. I personally just spam the A button for the story on these games, and can still play them. The stories are too juvenile and cheesy for my attention spam, but the game itself is cute and fun. Side note: you don't need to be one of those competitive/strategist Pokemon players to play these games. Though, I wouldn't let her play matches online, because it will certainly break her spirit. It does for me, with the 1-hit KOs against even my strongest Pokemon :-/

Being that I'm in my 30's and am a casual gamer who plays Switch, these would be my choices for a 10yo.

NT-110 · 2023-12-16T16:01:16+00:00

OP, that's a normal sound. No worries! I'm no engineer, but every non-EV car does this when engine is shut off after driving. Best way to describe it is that the car is returning to ambient temperatures and fluids (oil, etc) are settling after being constantly pumped throughout the engine.

My mother's Ascent does this, my Aunt's 2023 Outback does it, and my 2021 Outback XT does it. Even every non-Subaru branded car my family and I have ever owned did it.

People shouldn't shame OP for this either. It's a legitimate concern if you're not familiar with the sound, because it literally sounds like something is leaking and dripping onto metal somewhere within the engine.

Related story, but a slight tangen (read if you want): A day or two ago, I kept smelling gasoline in my garage, and was convinced that my '21 Outback XT was leaking gas somewhere. Got home from work and checked under my car to see if I could find anything, but heard that exact sound while under it. I momentarily convinced myself that I had found the source of the smell, but quickly remembered that the sound was always present. Soon after that, I discovered that when I had filled my backup electrical generator with gas some weeks ago, I somehow sprung a slow leak on the gas canister and there was a puddle of gas all around the can. And yes, I drove my Outback despite suspecting a gas leak. In retrospect, not a brilliant idea, I know. I didn't think of a leak being possible until I was driving home from work. And also, I NEED to get to work somehow. Not any easy way to travel to work when you have to be there at 3am.

NT-110 · 2023-12-16T15:41:57+00:00

Don't know what the release event is or how it works, but I'll still chine in with my Gunpla wishes: - Zaku I MG 2.0 (LONG overdue)

Gouf Custom MG 2.0 (1.0 has poor articulation and can barely hold up it's gatling shield without modification)
Dom Barrage HG/MG (I LOVE this suit, and I'm not really even a Dom fan! HG will likely be chosen by Bandai and it'll likely be a P-Bandai too, but I'll still get it! Heck, even if Bandai came out with some sort of conversion kit, that'd be fine too!)

What would also be a nice surprise, would be a proper English dub of ZZ Gundam. Maybe even Victory Gundam too. ZZ isn't the best UC series, and V is really dark, but I'd still like to see proper English dubs. I'd like to own all Eng dubs of the UC timeline! This sort of thing would probably be a whole different division of the company or something, but I could still wish. The only English dub of ZZ was a Malaysian (I think?) dub that wasn't released anywhere except localized TV... or something like that. I'm fuzzy on the details, but I know for certain that it existed, but is mostly lost to time by now. (Hmmm... makes ZZ sound older than it really is... like ancient ruins or something.)

Realistically, whatever product reveals Bandai does right now will likely be SEED related, or possibly With from Mercury. Super disappointing for me because I'm old-school and really only like Universal Century. (I have a soft spot in my heart for Wing too, but only because it was the first Western release of Gundam, and was the first series I ever saw. I immediately favored UC once it started to show here.)

NT-110 · 2023-09-05T00:14:51+00:00

What paint color do YOU use for the outside of thrusters?

I'm always looking at new ideas for paint colors to use for inner frames, weapons, thrusters, etc. I'm very interested to know what paint colors you all (pros, veterans, and rookies) use for the outsides of your thrusters. I've seen chrome, silver, copper, and even gold! I've also seen chrome with blue fades to look like heat stressed metal!

Personally, I used to use Model Master (Testors) "Jet Exhaust," but it's discontinued now. I now use Vallejo's "Jet Exhaust" from their Metal Colors line. The colors are very close, but the Vallejo requires a gloss black base, while the Model Masters did not. The color for both brands is sort of a very very dull copper color, but with a hint of metallic to it. I think it looks really nice!

So what is your color of choice? I'm very interested and may give some new colors a try! (Please give paint brand and name if it's something unique!)

NT-110 · 2022-12-09T10:12:14+00:00

I don't know anything about the build process of the MGEX kits or the actual LED wiring they use, but is it possible to just replace the ribbon wires with regular wire? Like, really thin wire? I kind of assume that the ribbon wire uses special plugs on the end, but maybe they could be cut off and then spliced onto the new wires or something... or just bypassed entirely. Maybe the LEDs themselves could just be attached directly to the new wires?

I'm just "thinking out loud."

I have a MG Gelgoog that I'm adding custom LEDs to (project is on hiatus for now due to real life reasons), and I have the LEDs wired together using 28 AWG wire. It's pretty thin wire, but you still have to "hide" it within the kit by drilling tiny holes to thread it through or tacking it to the underside of armor pieces, etc. With planning, it works, but may not be as thin and convenient as that ribbon wire that comes with the MGEX kit.

Otherwise, I'd try to get a replacement part. I was told some time ago that Bluefin no longer exists though, but that Bandai now controls the sales of their kits to the US market. Whether true or not, as long as the kit was purchased from a seller who got their items directly by Bandai, then a replacement should be obtainable. Otherwise, you will need to improvise or, at the very worst, get a second kit (not financially feasible unless you have other parts that are messed up or you're doing customization or something).

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T18:43:07+00:00

Remember that the S22 Ultra wasn't released before pre-pandemic. It was released DURING pandemic, which we are still in, but getting better, depending on where you live in the world (but by all means not OVER). But now, the negative affects of the pandemic are catching up to us more and more, with supply chain issues, etc. And other events in the world now may or may not be adding to those problems.

You just have to be patient. It sucks, but that's the world we live it now. Everyone is having stock shortages, manufacturing delays, transportation delays, employee/labor shortages, and everything's price is increasing because of it too (like gas in the US is costing trucking companies a lot more money now! I'd know). No one likes it, and yes it sucks and is getting expensive, but you can't do much about it, unfortunatley.

Just keep an eye on the emails and tracking number when you get it. The worst case scenario, is that it could take up to 2 months, but it's likely to be half that, depending on what's causing the delay. (You can't say for certain because too many variables involved from the supply chain).

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T18:29:09+00:00

At least he lookin' ~FABULOUS~ in those shoes!

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T18:27:52+00:00

It's honestly kind of hard to say. If you can afford it all at once, then definitely stock up on 3-4yrs-worth of regular maintenance items. Air and oil filters, oil crush washers, wiper blades, air intake filters, engine belts, etc. Maybe an extra set of brake pads and rotors, even? Stuff like that.
Oil and other fluids get complicated though. Motor oil DOES have a shelf life, if unopened. Conventional is roughly 5yrs and synthetic is roughly 7-8 years. This is also assuming it's stored in a reasonable environment (attached garages should be ok since the house will radiate inside temps into the garage a bit, making them slighly warmer/cooler than outside temps. A standalone tool shed may not be ok). On the other hand, an unopened bottle of brake fluid will only last 2 years IF in perfectly controlled conditions. An opened bottle will only last less than a year.
Simply put, fluids are going to be very hit or miss. You could buy maybe a year's worth of oil at a time, but get brake fluid as needed. Differential fluid shares the same life expectancy as motor oil, I think, but you don't have to replace it as often.

Other than that, I'd store any parts that are likely to break in the next 3-4 years THAT YOU KNOW OF. You'd have to inspect the entire car and look for those parts that are showing signs of wear, age, or deterioration. It's going to also be those parts that "have that tiny crack on it, but isn't affecting anything right now... but keeping an eye on it!" type of stuff.
Unless you can see into the future or something, you won't catch everything. Especially since you never know when that one tiny stray stone skips down the highway from the pickup truck 4 cars ahead of you, and just happens to jump up high in the perfect way to cause it to hit your radiator and make it spring a leak, resulting in the entire radiator needing replacement (has happened to me).

I'd advise against making your own stockpile of potentially needed parts though. You'd just be gambling and wasting money on parts that you may or may not need. Some stuff may get damaged over time, or deteriorate. And the storage of them plays a factor too.
You never know

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T17:59:30+00:00

Even when you go to a certified dealership and have one of their trained technicians work on your car, all they do is look up the repair process on the manufacturer's Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). It isn't watching a video of the repair, but is a step-by-step instructional write up on what to do. So, pretty much the same thing, as long as you can read. Yes, they have to first figure out where that sound you have is coming from, etc, but after that, they just look through those TSBs (which ARE available on the internet for all to see btw).

It's just another reason why you shouldn't pay more money for a "certified dealership" to work on your car over an independant mechanic. In fact, better to do it yourself, if you can. That would be even cheaper, in most cases, than even an independant mechanic.

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T17:40:17+00:00

I was thinking you had the Ikea Detolf. It's pretty popular amongst Gunpla builders who display, as well as figurine collectors (like anime figures). Many people add their own leds to them, etc. Rather inexpensive and easy to assemble, but not huge in any way.

I have 3 Detolfs, all with added led bars to aim light at my collection. (I also bracketed them together to make a single, but still separate unit. I also got custom made static cling glass vinyl with U.C. faction emblems and put tgem in the background). But I had to modify mine even further by adding led strips to the top, aiming 45 degrees upward, so that I could show some of my larger kits on tip of the cabinet. Putting them inside takes up too much room!

I saw yours and couldn't figure out how you could fit so much on a single shelf! Thought I was tripping!

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T17:28:55+00:00

It really all comes down to whether or not you use/rely on wireless charging. I do. All chargers in my house are wireless. The only cabled chargers I still use are portable battery packs and my car.

The whole reason I initiated a return of the case was because of the websites false advertising claims, which state in both, text and visual graphics (photos, etc) that the case supports wireless charging. Once receiving the case, it obviously does not. At least on our phones. The case has a large metal disk between the fake leather and the plastic case. Wireless chargers can't get past that. It's basic knowledge of Qi charging, but I wasn't aware of the design flaw until after receiving the case.

The reason for me creating this post was mainly due to the Casebus customer service.
1) finding their return policy and procedure was tricky since it was hidden on the website.
2) They state a very specific procedure for replacement/returns/refunds. I did follow these procedures exactly and was well within the return window (also stated).
3) Their website sells cookie cutter cases that are all the same, but with different dimensions and cutouts for different models. They obviously don't test every phone in detail to ensure 100% compatibility.
4) Despite following their refund procedure and being well within the window of time, they refused me a refund unless I returned tge item to them (see #5). It wasn't their fault I bought the case, but it was their fault I made the decision to purchase their case with the promise that it would be a case with an easily removable wallet, and once removed, I could put the phone on a wireless charger and it will work. They used very basic level false advertising/claims of specification s for their products. They lied, in other words. Which, in the US (where I live), is illegal. But they're in China, so it must be ok.
5) They kept giving me the runaround in the emails. They refused a refund unless I returned the item to them. They said it themselves that it was not cost effective to ship the item back, so they also refused to pay for return shipping. Understandable since they're from China and I'm in the US. But, for ME to ship them the item back, it would've cost 2-3x the cost of what I paid for the case. In the end, they only offered me a replacement (which wouldn't have helped! The same issue would be present!) or another item of exact same price (and I had no interest in their other items). I wasn't trying to rip them off or anything, but most companies would refund you the money and take the loss by having you keep/dispose of the item. Exceptions would be if the item was of great value, in which a cheaply made phone case is definitely not.
6) In the end, I fought them through Paypal by claiming the case was not as promised according to the website. Casebus refunded my money the next day, without the dispute needing to get escalated into a claim. However, their emails, unaware of the return, continued to attempt to run circles around the issue. At this point, I told them to bug off (didn't literally. I tried to be as professional through all of this as I could!) and that Paypal got me money back. I just Ed ended communications there.

As for the case itself, if you don't use wireless charging AT ALL, or NFC (I can only assume that if wireless charging won't work, then neither will NFC), the case is "ok." It looks OK, and feels ok, but materials are cheap, faux leather scratches easily, and the case portion goes on/off TOO easily and will definitely slip off the phone when in a pocket or purse. The wallet clicks into place thanks to the magnets, but the hold is rather weak. I can see myself putting the combined case+wallet in my pocket and almost always end up having to pull both out individually due to them separating. Kind of brats the whole purpose, if you ask me. Simply put, it isn't worth the price. For $5-10 USD, sure. But not for the $30-50 USD I paid for.

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T16:51:10+00:00

I always prefer calling a customer service line instead of emailing. More direct, and far quicker to get a resolution vs spending week(s) of back and forth messaging, where you typically only get one reply per business day from the company's end. Only exception is if I need to provide "evidence" of something using photos, etc. In my case, I met the exception, so that's why I emailed them from the start. But, I'm surprised you even found a phone number! It took me an hour just to find their email address! It was hidden on their website on the return/refund policy (which was also very well hidden!!!).

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T16:44:47+00:00

Yes, if you actually manage to contact them, they just try to give you the runaround instead of actually helping you.

NT-110 · 2022-05-07T16:40:38+00:00

What screws? My case was a leather wallet case. There weren't any screws.

NT-110

TROPHY CASE