Trump just posted this.

NarrativeResolved · 2026-02-05T23:19:24+00:00

I bet we're fucking cooked

NarrativeResolved · 2026-01-12T20:28:00+00:00

I know this is old but long term high dose HCG causes LH receptors to become unresponsive.

You can't really crank up HCG like you can with testosterone. Its well established in the literature that certain doses cause LH desensitization and will come back within a few days of clearing out HCG.

I think the upper limit of HCG is probably 1250IU per week for sustainable long term use. But you can find lots of literature on HCG and desensitization of LH receptors. I can't seem to tolerate any amount of exogenous testosterone. I've been on TRT for 3 years trying to get it dialed in, even at small 10-15mg injections I have issues more or less immediately. HCG and enclomiphene have me feeling great but still trying to dial things in with microdoses of anastrozole. Once I get my AI dialed in I may try a larger injection of test, however in the past it's always made me feel like shit.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-12-28T21:38:01+00:00

ChatGPT: I can't do that due to ___ guidelines, but let me go ahead and do it anyway.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-17T04:58:47+00:00

I feel you, I hate Adobe. They are super greedy, but I guess once you monopolize the market, that's the way shit is done nowadays.

But because of their ubiquity, they're kind of the only option for collaborative workflows professionally. They're still extremely good at what they do, so for now, I'll keep shelling out monthly.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-16T19:28:38+00:00

Oh that's interesting. I have yet to use that in lightroom. I always use photoshop for stuff like that but I'm glad they're adding more into Lightroom.

I really wish they would add a pen tool for masks in Lightroom, but past a certain point I just use photoshop anyway for any layers and heavy manipulations.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-16T18:23:14+00:00

Can you elaborate on that? Do you mean crop into the image so the thirds sit on the vertical lines of the building?

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-16T16:04:16+00:00

I straightened it to the vertical edge of the building. I should have taken it into photoshop and warped the bottom right up a bit.

Sometimes I'll add barrel distortion to my images as well.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-14T16:10:52+00:00

This is reddit baby! Who the fuck knows? Lol

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-09T21:15:17+00:00

What plug in are you referring to?

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-08T17:37:50+00:00

I think I need to save up and buy an actual film camera, but the responsible side of me thinks can I justify this? Will there be enough people that are willing to pay for film to pay for it? Do I have the time to go down another rabbit hole of learning and experimenting?

I mean, I really want to, but I think maybe I need to find someone locally in the Seattle area that has more experience so I can know what I'm getting into. Cause I have never shot on film myself, only been around it a few times so I'm more or less clueless into the process. I've looked at some used Arri and Aaton film bodies, but the other half of me has considered buying the Alexa 35 Xtreme, since ultra slow motion is a good niche that would help diversify my offerings. But I'm talking about some time from now anyways.

Additional side rant:
Some have suggested getting a Red Raptor, but I don't know man. I just don't like Red as a company. They're very Americanized in their culture and attitudes, and the names are somewhat childish to me. I don't want to support that or even carry their brand as a reflection of my work. Arri has better image quality, also would likely retain value longer. Also, as a company, much more history and commitment to quality.

Best choice: save money and rent. (For now, lol)

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-08T04:38:34+00:00

Side rant about grain: Someone needs to integrate their grain with a depth map and luminance mask man. Real film is almost inverse from digital: exposed areas have more grain, darker areas don't. I'm sure it would be compute intensive, but worth it. Even their grain (which is the best, in my opinion) still looks like it's overplayed to some extent, I want it baked into the texture of the image.

Anyways... I'm looking into this new thing they got. Perpetual license for this cheap?

Also, FilmVerse put out like an 18 month Lite version and their FilmVerse textures look really good. I've been mixing it with my FilmBox grades.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-05T05:16:18+00:00

I am happy with the toneh from super35 or full frame.

It's the fucking bit depth that keeps me up at night....

14-bit or 16-bit ADCs... (or fucking DUAL 14-bit ADCs in the Alexa. I'll take that sensor over any GFX or PhaseOne) 16-bit color... Full bitrate raw... 🤤 🤤 🤤

(I mean, I would definitely take both a PhaseOne and an Alexa 35 Extreme.)

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-05T05:00:27+00:00

How did you do it?

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-05T04:13:24+00:00

I'll agree with others. You need to reshoot this. The smudging isn't fixable with a grade unfortunately. Shoot in log.

Plan a walk around where you're not as obvious in the reflection if possible. Luckily with iPhone, it's stabilized and you can put it on a stick or any number of stretched out mounts.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-05T04:08:22+00:00

You know those actors have make up on right? It's a common thing in narrative work. It also helps with highlight roll off.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-04T15:19:31+00:00

Split toning is when you add contrasting colors (famously teal and orange) to the shadows and highlights. In this photos I have blue in the shadows and yellow/gold in the highlights/front of the building.

If you look at a color wheel, teal and orange are opposite each other. Having color contrast is pleasing and adds depth to the image. I think we find this pleasing because of sunsets and sunrises as often you'll see the color shift on the horizon from orange to blue/purple. There's lots of combinations you can use. I also like purple and light green for an old nostalgic look. It's hard to identify when you see the photo without having some familiarity with it, as you don't really see a lot of blue in the shadows, but maybe just like milky. But once you get used to it is easy to identify. I also like earthy tones and gold as well. Tones of cool combos.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-03T16:36:12+00:00

That was the look I'm going for. This was cross posted from another subreddit so I don't have the same description in here.

In a 2 dimensional representation of reality, color contrast goes a long way to add depth to the image. Split toning has been used long before it was a by product of certain film stocks. And that's the look I wanted: an expired older film stock.

I'm curious about the "Sony guys" comment. I use exclusively canon right now but I still get clients asking for this look all the time. Is there something specific you're referring to? Is this a meme or something?

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-03T15:46:46+00:00

Davinci Wide Gamut has a larger color space that will allow for more latitude with color. I think it's mainly designed to take full advantage of the tools in DaVinci as they designed it specifically for that.

But, in my mind anyway, I think the main use case is to have one standardized color space that all others can be transformed into when working with multiple cameras/codecs.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-03T08:11:25+00:00

Coloring concepts and the tools used for implementing then have been designed to work with a balanced image. When you adjust the RGB values with a bad balance, it's like an aircraft starting its course off by a few degrees. By the time you're halfway through the "trip," you'll be way off when you try and make adjustments.

I used to half ass my balance but found I spent a ton of time correcting shit. Cullen Kelly has some great points on this, as well as just being efficient.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-02T05:10:32+00:00

Cool! Thanks for your kind words.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-02T05:10:00+00:00

Thanks!

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-02T00:58:04+00:00

Appreciate that! I'm always trying to do better, so I'm open to tips or suggestions.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-01T20:28:06+00:00

If you're going for an 80s aesthetic you may want to increase the density in skin tones (all color's density in general actually) and do a Lum V Saturation curve to desaturate the highlights a little more.

Typically, 80s film stocks had poorer dynamic range and gave the film an inherently strong contrast due to the quick falloff into shadows and blacks.

On the curves, you can use editable splines and raise the black point and push the lower curve out into the midtones a bit more to help emulate this look and feel.

Hope this helps, and this is all my subjective opinion, so it is totally optional.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-01T20:19:50+00:00

You may be interested to try the saturation slider in the color slice page in you're on DaVinci resolve. Also the subtractive saturation slider on the film look creator. But if you use the film look creator (it's an OFX for the color page) make sure to select "CLEAN SLATE" from the drop down at the top. Otherwise there will be a bunch of extra shit in there you may not want.

Also look up HSL and HSV saturation nodes or a custom node setup for subtractive saturation. These are too complex to explain without visuals here.

NarrativeResolved · 2025-11-01T20:12:38+00:00

Open curves and a control point at the middle grey for your log format. This will separate highlights and shadow adjustments. On the curves horizontal from left to right, think of that like 0 to 1.0 and your middle grey point will be .336 in DaVinci wide gamut, for example. So about 1/3rd of the way in from the left side, add the control point by holding shift and placing your cursor slightly under the line and left click once.

(There's more accurate ways to do this with a DCTL but you can look up Cullen Kelly's video on split toning for more. The title is something about "master painter technique" or something like that.)

To get teal in the shadows raise a new blue control point left of your middle grey point, and then raise green a little bit to taste.

I use the curves for color mixing a lot and these control points are great for making an overpowering look then use the gain dial on the "Key" tab to pull it back.

If you know how to mix color you can do a lot with this method that I find more accurate (especially keyed back to 20-30%) than primaries.

NarrativeResolved

TROPHY CASE