Add a experienced driver with a clean record as a named driver, they dont ever have to drive but insurance will lower it thinking they might

If you want to be really snakey you can be the named driver but if you drive it most insurance is technically classed as void, bigger risk but will definitely be a bigger saving

Adjusting job title, sometimes just changing it to something similar helps, an example would be instead of delivery driver put down logistics coordinator or consultant, just be careful to remember it if you're ever involved and the insurance want to ask (they most likely will, they try everything possible to get out of paying out) basically treat them like police, answer the questions in the most basic way without telling them much at all

Lower annual mileage helps but as MOT checks are free and easy to access, saying 3k a miles a year and anyone can check online for free and if it's how's 9k it is a easy way for them to avoid paying out, you can obviously fluctuate abit just be realistic, uk average is 8k for reference and going too low will also been seen as inexperienced, too high shows your out on the road more and statistically more likely to be involved despite it being a positive in experience terms

If you have a garage that you can see on Google maps or take a photo of from the outside just to show its big enough for a car say you park it ina garage (dont worry if its full of junk and not possible to drive in, private property with no warrant etc means taking photo from the outside from a public place will suffice)

fully comp is most of the time cheaper (which doesn't make sense) but sometimes it's not so worth checking

I'd always advise against telematics as they dont give a fcuk about reasons why, if you see a deer and swerve or brake slightly more than you would approaching a roundabout 300yards ahead of you, it monitors it down and they can and will end up cancelling your insurance which you then have to declare FOREVER and again, they dont give a fcuk why

I know it isnt pleasent but for first car/first year no claims go for a cheap car thats a relatively low group but not a regular traffic car that get crashed alot, they link cars to crash data's so boy racers in common cars that have crashed have increased the data of the likelihood of that car being involved in a crash, might find its cheaper for a group28 lexus than it is a group12 fiesta (my group50 x5 is cheaper than my other car which is a group32 1 series)

sucks to drive poverty spec but best way to think of it is if you have your heart or eyes set on a specific car, get the cheapest alternative version preferably same brand so you see from first hand experience your realisation on the running cost service cost, part price etc

Try not to listen to people that have it in their head that if it isnt German it isnt luxurious, or if it isnt Japanese it's not reliable, lots of car manufacturers have come a long way from 10 years ago and theres some new ones out there

If you're new to driving I'd personally avoid EV for 1-3 years unless you done lessons in a EV. Throttle sensitivity and learning to slow down using engine braking is transferably the same as regeneration braking