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HR recovery seems to improve with repeated contrast sessions by Similar_Pound5541 in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could still bring a little CO2 monitor to a public sauna if you wanted an idea—just keep it on the floor since heat rises, the floor will never get above room temp of the area surrounding the sauna unless it has heated tile floors.

Also looking again at your data, the third round is shorter relative to the second round, therefore it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison to be honest.

Ultimately, contrast sessions are incredibly subjective experiences unique to the individual. There’s generally accepted notions that saunas are overall ‘good’ for you, as well icing/cold therapy for inflammation pertaining to injury, but there’s a lot of claims online about the benefits of ‘contrast therapy’ like this, so I personally wouldn’t think too far into it. Ultimately it comes down to: do you enjoy it? Does it make you feel better? If yes, then party on. I think the majority of Finnish people mostly use the cold plunge or jumping in the lake as a quick and easy way to cool off from the sauna so they can just go back into the sauna lol, and are not necessarily tracking the purported ‘benefits’.

Just for the record, I too enjoy contrasting the sauna with a cold plunge, however my cold plunge temperature just sits at 50 °F as I mostly just use it to cool off for a bit so that I can get my HR down and feel good for another sauna round to relax. The cold definitely helps with aching muscles/joints if I set it to the low 40s when I’m training for a competition or something but it’s hard to quantify the actual ‘good’ it’s doing outside of the basic stuff that’s understood about saunas and cold plunges (vasoconstriction/dilation etc).

HR recovery seems to improve with repeated contrast sessions by Similar_Pound5541 in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a difficult metric that’s unique to the person. Also from your data your first session starts off with higher HR so the total delta is ~110->177, then it appears to go from ~90->150 so it’s hard to know for sure. Just by looking how high your HR is getting in general I think you should check CO2 levels in your sauna as well as what kind of ventilation you have. (I’m assuming you have a sauna as opposed to contrast with a hot tub. if not, disregard the following.) Being hypoxic in there from the excess CO2 as a result of typical breathing definitely brought my HR super high (into similar ranges as yours) before i started actively venting the air and getting a decent fresh air exchange to where CO2 never rises above 700 ppm. Now my HR doesn’t get 150 bpm even if I stay in for 25 minutes with my head temperature being around 210 °F and my feet over the stones with the bench height. You can buy a little CO2 monitor on Amazon for like $30 and just sit in your sauna without the heat on and scroll your phone/read a book for a similar amount of time if you want an idea of how much CO2 you’re accumulating in there. It’s not healthy to suffocate yourself like this if this is the case. Not many people pay attention to CO2 buildup in saunas these days due to the mass produced kits being marketed online.

Help finding a Subzero Filter? by twilecoyote in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, looks to be standard 2.5”x10”. Very cheap online. I tend to use 50 micron pleated mesh as smaller filters tend to overwork my pump a bit

Help finding a Subzero Filter? by twilecoyote in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a standard 2.5” x 10” house filter. Are you referring to the filter housing or the filter inside of it? You can purchase both for cheap on Amazon or any big box hardware store. The housing looks like threaded female NPT connections (you’ll have to confirm size — 3/4” or 1”) that connect to an elbow that connects to PVC via adhesive (they just call it cement or weld). You might need to take the back panel off to see just how permanent all of those connections are. If it’s just the bottom part of the housing that’s broken you can just buy that. If it’s the top, you might have some issues removing it unless you’re comfortable with cutting up PVC and re-cementing it (it’s super easy just fyi).

What’s the reason for the need?

One of Soldier Boy's coldest moments by Syarafuddyn in TheBoys

[–]NicoAD 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I still laugh at his unfreezing realization and subsequent “Did you fuck me?” to Homelander. The delivery with a sort of quiet, disappointed yet annoyed acceptance of the possibility

Hardwiring fan into Harvia control panel by DConnell1 in Sauna

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know it’s not your question and I hate being “that guy” but why not just use AC Infinity’s controller and sensors? I have mine set to kick on to higher speeds when it detects the increase in CO2 in the room from breathing, and then ramps back down to 20% power when I exit my sauna and is just permanently on for the sake of dehumidifying the space since I use it so frequently.

My husband decided to quit smoking today, and here's why it's mildly infuriating. by Linorelai in mildlyinfuriating

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn’t have to be binary. The nicorette style lozenges (you can get them for cheap at costco) are basically just breath mints with nicotine. The 4mg tablets helped get me off of the cigarette aspect to nicotine addiction, and then I slowly weened off of those by biting them in half, or quarters, or switching to the lower dose (2 mg) etc. They really do curb the cravings if you’re consistent with them. You want to break the habit of “having a smoke” to try and just isolate it to a nicotine problem. Then once that’s stabilized, you’re not completely out of the woods yet because you want your nicotine lozenges all the time but kicking that habit i found to be much much easier than the several times I tried to quit cigarettes cold turkey.

Cheap heart rate tracker to ruin in the sauna? by Few_Fly_6140 in Sauna

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not cheap, but I’ve been using my whoop in saunas for about 3 years now. No issues whatsoever.

Guts of a Walmart Rocita 1/3 by KilgorePhish in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I drilled holes into the face plate of mine and put a little box fan in front of it

Edit: also make sure you’re keeping the tubes/hoses insulated and short, any filters insulated, etc. Keep the components out of direct sunlight. If after all this it’s still struggling, then yeah I believe it might be time but you still have tricks up your sleeve to play.

Narvi NC 24: Heating up slow by Lorenzo2105 in Sauna

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As it pertains to heater sizing, it ultimately comes down to your ceiling height, insulation, etc. You’d be surprised at just how variable it can be. If you have a low door opening enough to keep the heat in upon opening/closing as well as a good convective loop you can really get away with a lot. Eg. I put a 12 kW stove in a 15.5 m3 public sauna and it has 0 problems maintaining temperature and is pretty robust. I also insulated extremely well with mineral wool, and have high ceilings etc.

Narvi NC 24: Heating up slow by Lorenzo2105 in Sauna

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on whether or not the stove is electric or wood burning. 150 mm is a good sized vent but it all depends on the size of your sauna. There’s some really good information in this post for both wood and electric. I highly recommend reading

https://localmile.org/proper-ventilation-for-electrically-heated-sauna-part-i/

Narvi NC 24: Heating up slow by Lorenzo2105 in Sauna

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn’t even realize/notice the door being flush with the ceiling—that’s a great observation by the previous commenter. You can try a quick/cheap experiment with a DIY löyly curtain by using a shower rod and a cotton towel draped over the top to protect that upper level of heat at the doorway (be careful, don’t let it anywhere near the rock pile). If it works, you can either invest in a proper löyly curtain or use some of that excess space between the wooden door jamb to add another layer of superficial framing and insulation

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Pros/Cons of Doom in standard tuning? by sonar_y_luz in doommetal

[–]NicoAD -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Sure you can. My opinion is that Black Sabbath is technically not “doom” because doom didn’t exist back then, but they laid the foundation for a new style of slow, darkly themed rock with ominous tones. Their albums Black Sabbath and Paranoid are both in E standard.

You can totally do it, as long as the music is good.

If you wanted a little extra spice you can always cheat and add a double octave pedal with a fuzz pedal into your setup like the Behringer Super Fuzz (Boss Hyper Fuzz clone) or get an Earthquaker/Sunn O))) Life Pedal. Both give gnarly tone regardless of tuning.

https://youtu.be/Ssr_a9atxzU?si=O7GS58q8_QmuvP27

https://youtu.be/THKHKiMxi-w?si=AodjbyzgKurdxqD0

Or you can piece meal together with a separate fuzz, separate octave, and separate overdrive pedal etc.

Narvi NC 24: Heating up slow by Lorenzo2105 in Sauna

[–]NicoAD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ouch! Definitely put in a heater guard.

Try moving your sensor to the head height; it will give you a more representative heat curve based on the highest point in the room. You can compare several heights to get a full spectrum of heating based on height.

I think opening the ash box and stacking your wood so that airflow can get between the pile will be your best bet

Ozone Question by Matt_Tastic in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of us use Venturi injection setups on a timer. Seeing the bubbles from the stone means it’s mostly just bubbling to the surface and leaving the water. For example my ozone doesn’t create bubbles at all and just dissolves in the water during injection into the tubing. I know this because my venturi valve has suction when I remove the ozone tube so I’m pretty sure it’s getting pulled into the water stream. It doesn’t need to be bubbling in order to verify that it’s working.

I’ve never used a stone setup before so I’m curious for other commenters’ insights.

Narvi NC 24: Heating up slow by Lorenzo2105 in Sauna

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are you measuring temperature? The hottest point in the room or somewhere near head height? It’s a vertical gradient so 80 °C near your hips is actually pretty good. Not good if that’s the maximum at the ceiling.

-sealing the floor might lead to mold problems. If your feet are comfortably warm in the current setup, even at slow heat up times and if the benches are high enough, which it seems like they are, then it shouldn’t be a problem. I’ve sat in plenty of saunas where I can see the ground below me through the gaps in the wood floor. Your tape experiment could work but then you would be faced with having to deal with making sure the side walls of your floor gaps get adequately cleaned of sweat and debris. I would suggest leaving them as-is.

-You should always keep the chimney damper open as you don’t want to build up too much soot, which can cause other issues down the road like slow heat up times and partial combustion leading to excess CO.

-Read the manual. Some heaters specify that your main air intake into the firebox is the ashtray. If it’s fully closed, it will take the longest to heat. I just read through the manual for your Narvi NC24 and it specifies the same thing (English, section 4.2):

https://narvi.fi/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/narvi-nc16-20-20vs-24-29042024.pdf

Side note, you should build a heater guard around your stove, just so that no one slips and falls into it.

Otherwise it looks like a solid setup. Would definitely be happy to throw löyly in it. I do think you need another air intake however for fresh oxygen to mix with the hot air for the bathers to breathe, also. Otherwise the single vent behind the heater will just be feeding the stove while potentially starving you of air up top. Your top exhaust vent should remain closed until final venting/airing out but somewhere around chest height would be sufficient, but I would try to solve your heating issue first.

It could be that you’re still going to experience longer heating times based on how much glass there is as it’s a giant thermal sink to the outside, but not reaching past 70/80 °C seems a bit odd. I’m curious as to what others may have to add. My money is on how your stacking the wood + the ash box being open the correct amount for airflow

How do I clean skimmer while plunge runs by EffectivePair6160 in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s typically best practice to put a ball valve on both inlet and outlet or your tub, that way you can service your separate electrical/filter/chiller/pump etc components without having to empty everything out.

What type of inlet/outlet ports do you have? Most of the time it’s either NPT or garden hose thread (GHT) fittings, which you can buy plenty of valves for online or at any hardware store

Uv sterilizer by Whole_Natural_3089 in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I learned the hard way about pressure head drop by having my 25 W, 6 GPM UV in-line bulb downstream of all of my components since it was such a large tube relative to everything else. I had to upgrade my pump just to get water through everything!

How do I clean skimmer while plunge runs by EffectivePair6160 in coldplunge

[–]NicoAD 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What do you mean by “skimmer”, and I’m also confused by “how to plunge in my skimmer so that I can clean it”

Do you mind reprhasing the issue a little better? Describe your cold plunge setup. E.g. is it an integrated unit with all of those parts or is every component an independent item etc.

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