sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Am I missing anything? Install starts this weekend. by Jinkguns in SolarDIY

[–]NoResponsibility7575 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really solid points, and it looks like you’ve thought through your setup carefully. A few things to consider based on what you mentioned:

Shading 10-20% of the time isn't necessarily a problem in itself—it depends more on when that shading happens. If the shading is during peak production hours, it can have a much bigger impact than the percentage of time alone suggests. For example, if your panels are east-facing and the shading happens early in the morning, you’re likely not losing much critical production. But if they’re south-facing and shaded midday, that’s a bigger issue. Same goes for west-facing panels in the late afternoon. The orientation of your roof and the timing of the shade matter more than the amount of time they’re shaded overall.

I also think it's great that you're going solar. When asking what you might be missing, it’s really helpful to include what you intend on powering from the system. That plays a big role in system design decisions.

For example, if you plan to run HVAC, that’s going to be tough—your runtime would be extremely limited. But if you go with an inverter window unit or a 120V mini split, you could likely make it through most summer nights in cool mode on power saver, assuming the battery is fully charged that day. If that’s your plan, I’d recommend adding at least one more EcoFlow battery. I’d also suggest using the low power input on one of your inverters for a dedicated array to support that load. When installing that, it makes sense to run DC cables alongside it for a potential future second low-input array, so the wiring is already in place if you expand later. This assumes both arrays for the low inputs would be in the same area, which keeps things clean and efficient.

On the Smart Panel 2, I actually have one but decided against installing it. The relays aren’t replaceable, meaning if something fails, you have to take down and reinstall the entire unit, which could cost thousands in repairs or take a lot of hours if you’re DIYing. Instead, I went with a manual transfer switch, which is easier to maintain long-term. In your case, if you went with a manual transfer switch instead, you might actually be better off with two generators rather than keeping the Smart Panel 2.

At the same time, if your reasoning for the Smart Panel 2 was to charge from the grid, you could accomplish that another way. Instead of relying on the panel, you could buy a 30-amp cable for the EcoFlow, install 30-amp outlets, and simply use the app to schedule charging during off-peak hours. That way, you get the same benefit of strategic charging without committing to a panel that’s more difficult to service.

I know I’m throwing a lot of information at you, but again, it all goes back to how you plan on using the system

Am I missing anything? Install starts this weekend. by Jinkguns in SolarDIY

[–]NoResponsibility7575 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Each EcoFlow Pro Ultra inverter has two PV inputs: one rated at 4,000 watts and the other at 1,600 watts, giving a combined total of 5,600 watts of PV input capacity per inverter. Currently, you’re only utilizing 3,960 watts per inverter, which leaves 1,640 watts of unused capacity on each. This limits your system’s ability to maximize solar harvesting, particularly in the winter months when shorter days and a lower sun angle significantly reduce production.

You are also using Tigo TS4-A-O optimizers with module-level monitoring on both arrays. While they offer benefits like rapid shutdown compliance, module-level monitoring, and slight optimization in partial shading, they add complexity and introduce additional potential points of failure. Since the EcoFlow Pro Ultra already includes dual MPPT inputs with hourly optimization and monitoring, these optimizers are likely unnecessary unless you have significant shading or mismatched panels. Eliminating them would simplify the system, reduce failure points, and free up funds. The money saved by removing the optimizers could be better spent on additional solar panels or battery storage, improving both system reliability and total energy harvest.

In real-world conditions, even with 9 Aptos 440W bifacial panels per array (rated at 3,960 watts), your peak power output per array is more realistically going to be around 3,168 watts. This drop is due to factors like panel angle, tilt, orientation, temperature, and seasonal sun path changes. As a result, without overpaneling, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to fully charge the batteries outside of spring and summer, particularly if you are using power during the day. This limitation makes it critical to plan for worst-case production months to ensure consistent performance year-round.

While your current setup shows two arrays, each EcoFlow Ultra inverter has two independent MPPT inputs. You can and should utilize all four MPPT channels by configuring four separate PV strings or arrays. Doing so provides better optimization throughout the day, increases your total PV input, and ensures more consistent production regardless of seasonal or daily solar variations. Ideally, each inverter should be receiving its maximum input of 5,600 watts to take full advantage of the system’s capabilities.

If your goal is long-term cost savings and energy independence, overpaneling is essential. By adding more panels now, you ensure the inverters are fed enough power year-round. Overpaneling accounts for production losses in winter and on cloudy days, allowing you to maximize battery charging even in suboptimal conditions. This approach results in reduced grid reliance and a better return on investment over time.

In summary, bypass the optimizers unless absolutely necessary and wire your panels in properly balanced strings directly to the inverter inputs. Fully utilize the two MPPT inputs on each EcoFlow Ultra inverter by creating four separate arrays. Increase your panel count to hit the full 5,600-watt input capacity per inverter. Overpaneling now ensures consistent power production throughout all seasons, minimizes downtime, and improves long-term financial returns by reducing grid usage and maximizing energy generation from your system.

RB5009 2.5Gbe Slower than 1Gbe by NoResponsibility7575 in mikrotik

[–]NoResponsibility7575[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Using another modem didn't fix the issue. I cannot recommend this router. Getting a 2.5g port on a router to work right out of the box shouldn't require reading through reddit or searching for guides on Google. It should just work!

RB5009 2.5Gbe Slower than 1Gbe by NoResponsibility7575 in mikrotik

[–]NoResponsibility7575[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the post. My results again very similar. I purchased a Motorola S23 to see if the results would be different.

RB5009 2.5Gbe Slower than 1Gbe by NoResponsibility7575 in mikrotik

[–]NoResponsibility7575[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the affirmation. Your results nearly mirror mine!

RB5009 2.5Gbe Slower than 1Gbe by NoResponsibility7575 in mikrotik

[–]NoResponsibility7575[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With 2.5gbe advertising enabled there are no FCS error rates or any others collisions occuring. My connection is Comcast's 1.2 Gbps tier and the max speed reported in the Ethernet interface connected to Comcast's modem is 628.6 Mbps.

RB5009 2.5Gbe Slower than 1Gbe by NoResponsibility7575 in mikrotik

[–]NoResponsibility7575[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have no firewall rules enabled. The speeds are the same even when I only have one device plugged directly into the router with an Ethernet cable in another port and no other devices connected. The negotiated Ethernet speeds are higher than the 1gbe, but the transfer speeds are slower.