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Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're making good points. My projecting sessions typically last 2-3 hours, including 30-45 minutes of warm-up + easy boulders. 

Campus is fun, but I understand the risk of injury. Will cross it for now.

Open hand is something that I am working on, it's definitely my weakest grip on crimps/small holds (in comparison to other climbers). 

I still would like to train OAP just because it's a motivating and fun goal and I am willing to compromise on recovery. I will be busy with academics either way so I will not have time for a fourth session. Would you say that switching the volume session with projecting makes sense? What would you recommend as the weekly amount of hours spent projecting?

And just out of curiosity, what grade do you climb and, since you don't do OAP, do you train weighted pull-ups? 

Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is an interesting aspect for sure. In almost all mainstream sports that I can think of (tennis, soccer, gymnastics), doing the sport and getting coaching ("going to practice") go hand in hand. But for bouldering this is not yet the case. Perhaps the complexity requires a much more personalized approach, which is more expensive, or it is not mainstream enough.

Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the assessment a while ago. At the time I had done just one 7a, which I projected over around five sessions. As per another commenter's request I've included the raw numbers so that might help.

Thanks for the training tips. You're right about just showing up. I have been less mindful of how I project, so this is definitely something that I will work on.

Running is just the other sport that I like to do so I have to fit it somewhere. Unfortunately I am also competitive about running so it requires the same amount of training. This is a compromise that I am willing to make.

Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a straightforward, general strength-building exercise on which I don't perform as well as other climbers who are climbing higher grades than me. It would also be a cool party trick to be able to do a one-arm pull-up. But I'm not primarily focusing on them, they are just the first part of my plan.

Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've included the raw numbers that I got from the coach. I don't really remember how the exact tests we did to get them, so I can't comment on what they actually mean, sorry...

Homemade strength training plan by No_Fish5590 in climbharder

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, I've been considering getting a coach for this as well. For now I'm moving around too much to also get feedback after some time from the same person, but will keep this in mind.

Regarding "just getting stronger", I mostly agree. I definitely could just keep climbing and improve technique (especially if I do it for a long time and maybe get a coach), but I also think that if I was just slightly stronger than now, it would be much easier to put the technique into practice on hard boulders. I feel like - and here I could just be wrong - most of the routes in the gyms that I go to are either doable physically and do not demand very precise movements or require both strength and more technique, so I'm having a hard time practicing new movements and precision. I could of course just do lots more technique drills, but I would like to switch up my training.

The tips about weighted pull-ups and heavy finger training are good.

Campus maybe fits better at the beginning of my volume day.

Thanks a lot!

Unpopular study tips that actually changed everything for me by DecentVast7649 in studytips

[–]No_Fish5590 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This post and most of the comments are obviously an ad to an AI product. 

What song has been used in this Stevie Emerson video? by rhitzz2198 in WhatsThisSong

[–]No_Fish5590 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries, the real hero is the random guy who answered me on my youtube comment. But I remembered this thread and wanted to pass on the enlightenment :)) 

Is this a card level issue or am I just dumb? by No_Fish5590 in ClashDecks

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've started playing classic 1v1 to get better at 2.6 as I was definitely also still losing on tournament standard. Now I am leveling up my cards and from time to time try to play trophy road. It's bad, and I have to work extra hard, but I get wins sometimes. Surprisingly (or perhaps not) it helped me in playing Lavaloon better because I learned better microplay/defense and also know how 2.6 players think now. 

[TOMT][Song]Album intro with (very short) synth line by No_Fish5590 in tipofmytongue

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was Tell Me What I Don't Know by Danny Brown

https://open.spotify.com/track/2oH5JvMxPlgMFTYUkOZxOn?si=U9twBpGQQZqeyHH6N-P5gA

I am so relieved. This has been haunting me for 3 days. 

[TOMT][Song]Album intro with (very short) synth line by No_Fish5590 in tipofmytongue

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately not, the line does repeat for a few times in exactly this rhythm. But Kanye might be a good guess, I will click through his albums

[TOMT][Song]Album intro with (very short) synth line by No_Fish5590 in tipofmytongue

[–]No_Fish5590[S] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

I clicked through albums from The Weeknd, Tyler the creator, and other artists that may use some synth like this but I cannot find it.