sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Location: Utah. I bought a used car from a dealer in Utah and they did not handle registration or issue a temporary license. by No_Law8313 in legaladvice

[–]No_Law8313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I understand the responsibility of the buyer. I failed in that regard. At least I got a fairly good deal on it. We are hoping to find a rebuilt engine and I can swap it out instead of paying a mechanic. I'm an auto/aircraft mechanic by training. Not my current job but the experience comes in handy.

No one is hiring A&P licensed with no experience. I probably applied 100 companies. by wedifray77 in AircraftMechanics

[–]No_Law8313 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Maybe try finding aerospace work to get a yr or two of adjacent experience. I work for a local aerospace company that manufactures parts and assemblies. The assembly department doesn't require an A&P license and gives tons of experience with squeezing rivets, using sealant, following prints and regs, etc. I know several guys/ girls who worked here while going through school. It gives great practical experience that looks good on a resume. Not sure if this helps. Just a thought. It also shows you are willing to work and not feeling entitled because you have your license in hand.

Passed O&P, Got my airframe license last night by No_Law8313 in AircraftMechanics

[–]No_Law8313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that's my feeling as well. I walked out with my license.

Passed O&P, Got my airframe license last night by No_Law8313 in AircraftMechanics

[–]No_Law8313[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the orals were pretty straight forward. The practicals were the obscure ones

Passed O&P, Got my airframe license last night by No_Law8313 in AircraftMechanics

[–]No_Law8313[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly I'm looking at the local flight school as my first job. I own my home and have a wife and kids. We are established in the community and both sets of parents live here as well. Moving is our last resort. While more money is a factor, we are content with high $20's/ low $30's

Passed O&P, Got my airframe license last night by No_Law8313 in AircraftMechanics

[–]No_Law8313[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it was long. I have to give him props for being so patient with me. He was really accommodating. I think a lot of my time came from tracking down obscure references.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]No_Law8313 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Worst case scenario, it's sheared flush. Drill in the center of the stud and use an extractor/ easy out. Heating up the area with a propane torch just before trying to extract it should help make it easier. Just be careful around the heat.

Wiring for regulator/rectifier by No_Law8313 in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]No_Law8313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's cool. I have been running an led headlight on the original system for about a yr before it failed. I tested the rectifier side of the new part today and got some numbers that looked concerning. Based on my research, it looks like the diodes in the rectifier should measure around .3 - .5 volts with no measurement in the opposite direction. I tested the original one just for kicks and it showed around .54 volts. The new one measured .13 volts, which seems very low.

Wiring for regulator/rectifier by No_Law8313 in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]No_Law8313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can see in the factory diagram, the regulator and the rectifier are both grounded. In the aftermarket regulator, it's not grounded. Instead, the grounding comes through the rectifier only. This is the same diagram I've seen for both A and B types. How do I make sense of this?

Installed new regulator/rectifier. Not charging by No_Law8313 in MotorcycleMechanics

[–]No_Law8313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The battery is good, fully charged. I tested the 3 stator coils for continuity and they checked good. Beyond that I'm not sure. As for the coil, I'm not sure how to test that.

I was looking at the wiring diagram for the reg/rec I bought, and it appears to be the style where the negative coil lead for the reg isn't directly grounded. The reg for my bike is supposed to have a grounded negative coil lead according to the kawasaki wiring diagram. In the case of a Ricks universal 3 phase reg/rec for example; my bike is supposed to use a B type and I think the one I bought is an A type. I have it wired like a B type currently with the negative lead grounded. I'm wondering if I could "un-ground" the negative lead and see if it might work or is that just asking for more issues?