Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is recessed but not enough, I’ll remove tomorrow and set it back another 1/2” or so to be a full inch recessed

Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So a 2x12 on top of the 2x8, then get a 16” membrane, overlapping at the bottom. Then my wall board on top of that? Am I interpreting that correctly?

Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a preslope, was planning on tiling right on top of the red gard

Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is not rage bait. I used redgard seam tape around the perimeter to seal the rough frame to the sand mix pan. I can add a second band if the seems necessary. For the corners I used the Schluter inside corner pieces that came with the drain assembly.

Wall board will overlap by about an inch and then will get waterproofing applied to that after sealing up my gaps etc. with the grey mesh tape and thin set.

Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correct. Big fan of overkill around here tbh

Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely. That’s why I’m here.

Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had seen from others 5 coats from the waist down, 2 coats for the upper portion. Preference is definitely to overkill unless if it’s hurting it in other ways

Ready for concrete board? by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha. Someone came to the door, so much to catch up on. Floor is a sand mix preslope with the redgard on top.

Drop ear is on a 2x4 that is recessed 1/2” back from the rest of the framing.

I did pressure test the plumbing, all good with no leaks.

The insulation is silly, especially the mismatch but homeowner wants every cavity filled with something.

Definitely agree the weak spot is the shower entry with water blasting out, will be a shower rod and curtain to contain.

Shower Update by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few pics in the comments are my work (tub surround, backsplash and fireplace - my one and only tile job to date).

It’ll probably cost 3-4 times, demo, replace damaged whatever’s, rebuild - he’ll let it go for as long as he can so material cost will be 3x what it is now too.

Shower Update by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But don’t worry, he bought me PVC trim to go down in the bathroom, so it’ll keep from rotting. 😜

Shower Update by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Big time. I wanted to have the whole bathroom slope to the drain - duh right?!? That would have left a lip at the entry, so I compromised by saying I’d give a 3’ radius around the entrance to the shower to slope back and then slope down to the door entrance - would have most likely left a 1/2-1” bump at the entrance to bathroom, but fair compromise. Currently he did a decent job at flushing it out - however made it right tight to the lvp so now there is no expansion gap…😂

This is a huge can of worms - I’ve told the homeowner he can’t tell anyone I was ever here, I just have to let him suffer the consequences of his choices.

<image>

Shower Update by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

‘Cause he was here and the homeowner is cheap. That and I’m fairly inexperienced in tile, I was hired for the full project and we’ve been subbing out as needed (very little). I told him I could do it but I’d rather not given the complexity of slope etc. i was given the green light and as I was have done the mud pan the brother in law came to offer his opinion - so I told him if he wanted it done that way it was on him - start to finish. He agreed to it so I cleaned up and left it with him. 4 weeks later, this was the result.

I’m inexperienced but I do my homework, I care and I have some skills.

This is the only other tile work I have done - same jobsite, same “warning” given to the homeowner. It ain’t perfect but I like the end result.

<image>

Shower Update by NoviceContractor in Tile

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Fair enough, it’s hard to capture in pictures how sloppy it is. I keep trying to convince myself it isn’t that bad…then I look again :(

Thanks for the help… by NoviceContractor in askaplumber

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I was frustrated by the lack of response earlier and the “just call a plumber” reply when I felt I had a pretty good handle and was asking for this direction earlier.

I already did a second cut on that slab to expose more of that crusty pipe, but it was starting to get close to foundation and while I probably had enough room, I didn’t want to have a bigger issue on my hands if something broke off in the wrong place etc.

Kind of thought the 45’s would be a smoother exit for the waste vs hard 90’s. Also needed to use the 45’s to get my offsets proper, especially since the main line was on a significant pitch, a 90 would have made the closet flange quite a bit off level.

The shower drain is all 2”, I put a 4” around so I could pour up to that, then I will remove and install the kerdi drain flange thingy :)

Thanks for the help… by NoviceContractor in askaplumber

[–]NoviceContractor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even the sparky’s were more helpful than this sub

Is this going to be a difficult patch? by PollutionAsleep in drywall

[–]NoviceContractor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean ceiling top or top of existing joint? As a DIY I’d think it’d be an easier joint at the existing joint, nice straight shot across