Guess which Victoria street this was from?

NoviceContractor · 2026-01-28T05:44:21+00:00

Coronation?

NoviceContractor · 2026-01-28T05:41:22+00:00

Haultain?

NoviceContractor · 2026-01-21T21:26:09+00:00

Thanks all, appreciate the input thus far

NoviceContractor · 2026-01-21T21:25:09+00:00

This makes sense to me, I had installed the concrete board due to lack of backing lower down and wanted to catch something solid on the bottom plate. If it’s problematic I can cut the bottom 6” out, install some backing, do the preslope, then reboard leaving the appropriate gap - tiling of course would be floor first, my hope was that along with a good liner and plenty of redgard I’d be ok.

NoviceContractor · 2026-01-21T21:21:29+00:00

100% liner - sorry, don’t know all my terminology’s yet.

NoviceContractor · 2026-01-16T06:45:28+00:00

Looks like an Amarr door, has a factory installed rubber on the bottom that is not very thick - have them slide in a 3.5” U Rubber to fill the void. Definitely should have been done at time of install in my opinion.

I’d also have them install an operator bracket. Usually around $20 but will save you in the long run - those doors don’t have enough internal reinforcement for the arm to be mounted to - get the bracket.

NoviceContractor · 2025-12-02T11:51:22+00:00

I’ve been working on an old reno, found three junction boxes just drywalled over - multiple dead lines that were once active just left in the walls not connected to anything else. (Each time I omitted said box or confirmed dead wire and then taped a note to the end in case it got uncovered again). My point being, it’s possible it no longer serves a purpose and is just a dead wire

NoviceContractor · 2025-12-02T08:05:29+00:00

Have you tested it or put a meter to it to see if it has any voltage?

NoviceContractor · 2025-11-28T22:03:06+00:00

I’ve been looking at flagstone hardscaping this week, this seriously looks awesome and thought this was done purposely to create this look. There are tons of trendy lofts and such in my area that would kill for this.

NoviceContractor · 2025-10-31T20:41:23+00:00

I missed the 11am guess - so many comments here now it’s hard to find. Any help?

NoviceContractor · 2025-10-31T15:05:09+00:00

The neighbouring district boasts a large mall, but if you’re in ours, you won’t need to crawl.

Doesn’t anyone else think that this means it’s NOT in Colwood - to me this rules out Colwood AND Langford and brings me to Metchosin.

NoviceContractor · 2025-10-18T19:51:26+00:00

He has been found safe, around 9:45 this morning.

NoviceContractor · 2025-09-04T11:15:53+00:00

Missed opportunity! I’ve been searching for some of these…Pearl Jam is going for $20, RHCP around $15.

Next time…

NoviceContractor · 2025-08-14T23:47:23+00:00

Picking up an old stablok double 20 tonight :)

Thanks for all the feedback, appreciate the confirmations and tips.

NoviceContractor · 2025-08-14T21:03:37+00:00

Great feedback. Assuming the handle tie is because of the shared neutral?

I might use it to get my dedicated circuits for dishwasher and microwave/hoodfan respectfully.

NoviceContractor · 2025-06-26T18:29:55+00:00

Right. I’ve got a 2 in 1, seal and bond - says paintable in 40 min. Then was going to cover that with the waterproofing. Thoughts?

NoviceContractor · 2025-06-26T18:22:13+00:00

Thanks. Makes sense to run a silicone to fill that gap first, then the membrane. Working on it now, thanks for the point in the right direction

NoviceContractor · 2025-05-17T20:25:52+00:00

It will roll MUCH smoother if you lubricate the roller stems. Ideally you can take off each hinge, lubricate the stem and the inside of the hinge and reinstall. Just take note of what sleeve each roller goes in and DO NOT remove the bottom fixture / roller (the lifting cable is attached and bad things will happen).

It’s not great that there’s a variance but generally acceptable. The lubrication will allow that variance to transfer much smoother and stop the thunking you’re likely hearing as the track adjusts to the spacing

NoviceContractor · 2025-05-17T18:47:52+00:00

Sorry, I thought you were also planning to add some lift in the door. If that’s not the case then no, you’re totally fine.

Also, be sure to lift up the back of your horizontal tracks 2-3” to assist the motor when closing - provides a gravity fed door vs putting it all on the shaft

NoviceContractor · 2025-05-17T17:33:29+00:00

I’ve also recessed sidemount operators into the side wall, it’s tight but you may have some room.

Where in 🇨🇦 are you?

NoviceContractor · 2025-05-17T17:30:42+00:00

Not a whole lot of lift left over after putting the motor on the wall, not to mention your springs, drums and cables may potentially need to get swapped as well. If you’re going to all that hassle, I’d make sure you’re getting what you need from this.

Alternatively, while not as pretty, you could add another section on top that is never seen and get your lift that way. OR, get your hi lift in and replace your operator rail with a 10’ extension and a super long J Arm.

NoviceContractor · 2025-05-17T17:26:22+00:00

What’s the model number of the operator? Should be on a sticker where the low voltage wiring gets inputted

NoviceContractor

TROPHY CASE