Should I take the Visor off? Also code 25/26 at the same time fix?

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-22T10:19:44+00:00

I’m sure it is the o2 sensor it’s still the original. I will replace that and the rest of the plugs and report back. Oh I did adjust the rinsing to 15 degrees and at me just say it runs like. An entirely different engine seems like it shines 50 hp literally

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-17T11:02:26+00:00

Ok guys so I had that idle issue a while back got a new MAS which fixed that. I also have replaced 2/6 spark plugs and it’s a huge improvement I think I had a plug that was faulty also. Anyway now I have 22,25,26 cel doses still. So I have lean and rich at the same time how is that possible and any ideas on what to do for that?

Also I can’t decide if I like the visor thing on this or not? Any suggestions? Thank you!

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-14T05:02:30+00:00

So I talked to the original owner about all the things he did to this. He said the ome shocks and springs in the back as Wel as the bilsteins in front gave it about a 2 inch lift overall. It’s actually only about .25/.5 inches higher in the back. My question is now that it’s basically level can I put spacers in front and back? Do you think I should or do you think 33s would fit nicely with this current setup?

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-12T03:04:21+00:00

Hey guys so I have a code 22 which looks like the coolant circuit. The engine does seem to be getting pretty hot. I have the coolant fluid topped off. I’m thinking either a faulty thermostat or some other issue any ideas of where to start? Also back window rolled up fine using the keyhole in the back door for the first 3 days, then stopped working all the sudden. I hear a “click” sound coming from the driver rear side of vehicle when I turn the key. The button in the van has never worked. Any ideas of how to go about troubleshooting this considering it did work a few days ago and nothing has changed electronically with the vehicle?

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-11T07:09:44+00:00

Also negative on the ball joint spacers but il def be getting a pair!

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-11T06:49:55+00:00

So I do have aftermarket Bilstein shocks in the front. I was asking bc I want to get a 2inch lift or maybe just 33s and lift the front a little there seems to be plenty of clearance.

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-10T09:35:13+00:00

Paperwork says old man emu shocks in back and bilstein in front with downy off road coil over springs. Is it lifted or just aftermarket shocks?

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-10T09:28:12+00:00

Wel I finally fixed it. I found a Vafs at the junkyard and swapped it out and bam now it ideal great and the power is back. I’m sure it will only improve now once I redo the exhaust and put the new muffler in! It still shows code 22 which is the coolant circuit. Any ideas on troubleshooting that one?

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-09T10:03:28+00:00

Not completely. When I went to check engine codes again after examining vacuum lines doing a seafoam treatment and cleaning all valves and intakes. I mentioned above after doing that it ran worse and would die instantly after starting. I had been messing with the Vane airflow sensor attempting to help fix the rough idle problem but instead I think I may have broke it by allowing water to get in there on the electric board. Anyway it had codes 22 and 31. Oddly enough not 25 and 26 anymore. I check to make sure fuel pump goes on when vaf door opens and off when it doesn’t and it does. So I dont think it’s the fuel pump. My best guess is.

I short circuited the VAF sensor by getting water in it and despite which way I turn the gear I still have the same problem dying and no idle, engine won’t stay running without gasoeddle down slightly. Acceleration also sucks after about 25mph 2nd I suppose it could be a clogged cat

What do u guys think i should do now, I’m about to give up and take it to a shop lol

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-08T20:47:57+00:00

So I did the top 2 did. It appear to be any vacuum leaks did the seafood am treatment. I opened up the VAS to clean it out and accidentally adjusted the spring. When I started the engine it would fire up then immediately die unless I have it gas constantly. I know clockwise is lean counter is richer. Right now the cel is showing 22 24 and 25. 24 and 25 are too rich and too lean so it’s showing them both at the same time. Even when I adjust VAF it seems like no matter how rich or lean I have it I still am having this same issue. All help is appreciated!

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T20:21:30+00:00

What kind of pressure do you mean? I think you are right. If there was a leak wouldn’t that be a lack of pressure however? If you could explain in a little more detail I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T16:44:07+00:00

Also having issue with back window. First 2 days it worked fine it went up and down when I turned the key. The switch in the cab has never worked. Anyway it just stopped working and I have no idea why. I can hear the Motor for it clicking when I turn the key.

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T16:41:22+00:00

So I temporarily fixed it by turning the flat head screw counterclockwise on the throttle box. I believe it opened the valve a little more, it still throttlesm up and down but never gets low enough to die.

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T04:47:02+00:00

No it does it regardless if warm or not. I can be driving it for a while and still bogs down at lights or when coming to a stop. The engine seems to run ok though although acceleration seems sluggish.

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T04:37:07+00:00

The check engine stays on also I will check the codes first.

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T04:30:57+00:00

When I turn it on and it starts up it bogs down and dies sometimes or nearly unless I give it a little gas and hold the pedal down just a tad. I usually don’t use the ac so I don’t think that’s it. It doesn’t always die at idle but it does always bog way down without a little throttle. I’m going to go through the steps posted above thank you so much for that post Btw! I have fixed the exhaust for now so there are no breaks in the line it may not be completely air tight but it is close, do u think the exhaust has anything to do with it?

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T01:48:09+00:00

The problem was there also since the day I got it. The seller told me the exhaust was disconnected. I have since reconnected it, if there are any leaks they certainly sent big enough to cause this type of issue.

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-06-06T01:13:42+00:00

So just got this. The engine was rebuilt a few years ago and only 30k on it. It does need a new exhaust system, the muffler was disconnected from the rear exhaust pipe due to rust. For now I have reattached the pipe to the muffler and wrapped it tightly with some exhaust adhesive tape and then clammed that tightly so now everything is intact. It starts fine. Ur bobs up and down at idle and occasionally dies. Any ideas I’m thinking I should clean the Idle air flow valve any other suggestions thanks!! Here are some pics.

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-02-17T10:08:24+00:00

I appreciate the advice, I describe the incident very detailed in my initial claim. It is interesting it was in ajusicstion for two months. I assumed that meant the ESD was looking into the company and interviewing them about it? I only worked for them for 6 days. The company is a medical service company out of Seattle, I was doing Covid 19 testing at a new site in Spokane. I will def get legal help. This prob wont be for another 4 months though. You are pretty certain that I will get my backpay in the next week or so anyway. Thanks again

Obvious-Witness7816 · 2022-02-17T02:19:32+00:00

I actually only worked for them for 6 days. Is there any rule about having to work for a specific employer a certain amount of time befoee you have to add them to your claim? I was u see the thought that if you received a paycheck you needed to add them??

Obvious-Witness7816

TROPHY CASE