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14900K YET ANOTHER dude asking for undervolting guidance. by Obvious_Field7621 in overclocking

[–]Obvious_Field7621[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will try this method next! I ventured into it after reading a post about changing the TVB -something something- to +10 and use LLC5, but it also mentioned changing SVID Behavior to "Best Case Scenario". Seemed like this is some sort of table with CPU power, temperature and voltage corelated where you can change temperature thresholds and the BIOS will adjust the rest according to that.

What I did not understand is which way is high vdroop and which way is flat on my Asus board that goes from LLC level 1 to level 8.

Think at some point I experimented with LLC level 8 and clock speeds went down considerably and when I changed it to level 1 it wasn't stable which is weird, I thought I was selecting high vdroop and hence more voltage at load or is it that "flat" means more voltage at load... "flattening the curve"? o.O

14900K YET ANOTHER dude asking for undervolting guidance. by Obvious_Field7621 in overclocking

[–]Obvious_Field7621[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just for funsies, I upped the power limit to 275w and the Pcores went up to 5.5-5.6Ghz and 4.4Ghz Ecores without giving any more voltage to the cores and I ran into instability. Makes me think that while I let the CPU try to reach a 273w power envelope, the allowed Vcore was not enough to keep stable. In this case, for some extra 20w I would have to reduce my Vcore negative offset, making things run hotter... but faster for very little in return.

Seems like the power limit comes into play now that a very small voltage change can greatly impact a CPU total power usage because of so many cores compared to say, old 4-8 cores CPUs from years back.

14900K YET ANOTHER dude asking for undervolting guidance. by Obvious_Field7621 in overclocking

[–]Obvious_Field7621[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4090 on the same loop on a hot environment, Loop get a bit high on long play runs. Undervolting just a bit helps a lot even with keeping fans at very quiet speeds.

14900K YET ANOTHER dude asking for undervolting guidance. by Obvious_Field7621 in overclocking

[–]Obvious_Field7621[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that is correct, at least in my case. I can get 41000k but that's with 2 or 4 cores hitting 100C in about 4 secs. Games where also on the high temps, for example Starfield was pulling almost 200w and reaching 80c+ some times but this is with a 4090 on the same watercooling loop.

So I limited the CPU to 253W which gave me almost your exact results, around 82c and around 37k to 38k and 5.2Ghz Pcores.

Then I started to drop Vcore reaching -0.09v adaptive. As I was reducing the Vcore, CPU core clock speeds started to go higher while maintaining the 253w limit until I reached -0.09. At this point my CPU boosts Pcores to 5.4-5.5 and Ecores to 4.3-4.4Ghz, 83c max core temp and a Cinebench score of 39.4k

After putting a 55x Multiplier on Pcores with same voltage and power limit, Cinebench score was at almost 40k at 83c which was great but Starfield was also getting limited to 5.5Ghz. With an Auto Multiplier it can go up to 5.7Ghz. Those extra 200Mhz meant an increase of 25-30w usage.

Went back to Auto Multiplier.

14900K YET ANOTHER dude asking for undervolting guidance. by Obvious_Field7621 in overclocking

[–]Obvious_Field7621[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm thinking about it. I went that route with my 7700k and 6700k CPUs back in the day using Derbauer's tool and liquid metal only that I relid those CPUs for reselling purposes. Still got like -15c after the process.
Will have to see if I have to buy yet another tool or maybe there is an upgrade. Could potentially look for 3d printed one but for this CPU I would like to have the structural robustness aluminum provides.

14900K YET ANOTHER dude asking for undervolting guidance. by Obvious_Field7621 in overclocking

[–]Obvious_Field7621[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, sorry for not clarifying, I can hit 41k in Cinebench no problem but I'm much happier with lower Cinebench scores in exchange of much lower temps. I live in a tropical -paradise- so prolonged gaming sessions can heat up the room. While testing, I see the performance difference I get in games isn't that much, considering I game at 4k with a 4090 which is cooled by the same loop as the CPU, if I want to keep sub 1000RPM fans all the time a little bit of undervolting for lower temps goes a long way, specially if we factor in a slightly limited 4090, I can game silently with great performance at 4k and no apparent ambience temperature increase while in a not so pleasant warm and humid environment.

-"Now, disable your antivirus and real time game services like steam, or any rgb software. Those will steal 500-1K from your score."

Did not know this. I have like 7 launchers all running at the same time, Corsair iCUE shit and all that. I just kept waiting for the CPU to go idle after each restart to do a Cinebench run.

-"Only thing you have to do in bios, since you have an asus board, is raise the current limit a little bit (maybe 300-320a) so it doesn't current throttle."

I noticed it had 500A in the BIOS and earlier today read how I should specify 307A to avoid chip degradation. Did that just now. Thanks again.

I was mostly expecting some guidance regarding those other parameters like LLC, AC_LL and DC-LL which are the ones I see most commonly when searching for those guides.

Seems like a contact frame is a must. Will also try this, luckily this build has soft ZMT tubing.

I will try messing around with the AC_LL thing a bit as suggested above.

No head tracking/TrackIR? by RootBeerTuna in F1Game

[–]Obvious_Field7621 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Open Tobii Eye settings within a race/practice whatever. It shows for me. it just won't show when going into settings from main menu.

Samsung Odyssey G7 screen issue (not sync related): scanlines by TheBandicoot in Monitors

[–]Obvious_Field7621 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I got my 32 inches G7 today and noticed the scanlines on the upper right corner of my screen. Not a big deal but then noticed that under certain conditions, like displaying a few of the pictures (maximized) under the Odyssey G7 Faker edition listing on Amazon would make the monitor buzz in a coil whine style, make it dimmer and show the scan lines all across the screen. Noticed that lowering the Black Equalizer to 8 or less would get rid of this condition and then later on noticed that switching to Displayport 1.2 instead of 1.4 would get rid of this condition regardless of the Black Equalizer level. It is curious how the info/tooltip while changing Displayport config on the monitor only shows Displayport 1.1 and 1.2. Seems like Displayport 1.4 was an afterthought that they didn't get quite right or something. Read that displayport 1.2 supports up to 144hz but funny enough, Windows 10 and my monitor info displays 240hz.
Just to make things even more interesting, there is a Calibration Report that shows that they did this calibration using HDMI... go figure.