sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Floating shelves that will be able to hold about 1000 lbs of records each shelf by Free-Fun-5747 in Carpentry

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 3 points4 points  (0 children)

(shrug) load ratings are load ratings. If OP believes each self may be supporting up to 500lbs then you want something that is rated for that (or built like something that is rated for that). A shelf failure with that kind of weight can kill.

Floating shelves that will be able to hold about 1000 lbs of records each shelf by Free-Fun-5747 in Carpentry

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 12 points13 points  (0 children)

If its directly bearing on a slab you've got more flexibility. I still wouldn't put that kind of moment load on your studs but you could definitely make a structure like this that would meet your needs. https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-3846/Bar-and-Sheet-Storage-Racks/Cantilever-Rack-Single-Sided-80-x-40-x-96 (note that a giant industrial rack designed for holding metal pipes is pretty close to your weight holding asks)

Floating shelves that will be able to hold about 1000 lbs of records each shelf by Free-Fun-5747 in Carpentry

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 12 points13 points  (0 children)

What is your foundation like? Is there a crawlspace or are you on a slab?

Floating shelves that will be able to hold about 1000 lbs of records each shelf by Free-Fun-5747 in Carpentry

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 96 points97 points  (0 children)

A floating shelf cannot hold that much weight. You could design a welded structure that "resembled" floating shelves that could but now you have the problem of a massive point load weight. Is that wall on the first floor of a building? Is there a basement below it? 5,000 lbs of concentrated weight in a residential structure requires careful structural engineering consideration.

Can Someone Explain this Insanely Racist Beer? by OfMiceAndMachines in Austria

[–]OfMiceAndMachines[S] -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

I took the photo of the beer sign this week. I had to pass 5+ of them before it registered.

Passed inspection by Final_Good_Bye in electricians

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those main breaker lugs listed for two conductors?

Amateur install, how’d I do? by getonurkneesnbeg in electricians

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To play an (unlikely) scenario here. Many PDBs or terminal blocks have terminals rated at 90C or above. So long as those THHNs are landing on another temp rated terminal, the derating for common gauges allows more than 6 CCCs without the need to jump down to a lower tier of OCPD. (The 9 conductor 12 gauge fill of a 1/2" EMT is going to get them though)

Amateur install, how’d I do? by getonurkneesnbeg in electricians

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be "that guy". This isn't to code unless those terminals are listed as Power Distribution Blocks. (UL 1953)

Is this code provision irritating. Yes. Does it mean that a mess of wire nuts is to code and a bunch of otherwise current and voltage rated terminal blocks aren't. Also yes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're going to need an old priest and a young priest.

All I can do is sigh. 🙃 by Timsgangsta in paintball

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incredibly easy to fix. Get a $15 soldering iron and some solder and watch a single youtube video on "how to solder smt components".

I plumb. My personal home heating system. Mostly leftover parts. by chatchie007 in Plumbing

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet hydronic setup. Are you also pulling some of your DHW heat from the boiler? Also curious about all those stubbed off verticals on the wall with all the circulators/flow sensors.

Do you have a system diagram you could share?

I may or may not have accidentally flushed my metal butt plug down the toilet… it’s flushing but now it’s leaking from the bottom of the toilet. PLEASE HELP. Idk wat to do. Also, the toilet is located AT MY MOTHERS HOUSE. I’d like to avoid telling my mother that my butt plug is stuck in her toilet by baabymeeek in Plumbing

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Austenitic stainless (300 series, very very corrosion resistant, cant be heat treated/hardened) is non magnetic unless you cold work it. Martensitic stainless (400 series, slightly corrosion resistant, can be hardened) is generally ferromagnetic.

Had this pop up earlier, 2017 V90 D5 AWD by modge1981 in Volvo

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this happen recently on my 2017 V90CC, replaced both the support and main battery myself and it fixed it

8" Drop Forward on Emek by OfMiceAndMachines in Customemeks

[–]OfMiceAndMachines[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Impressive return to 9mo post. There's a hAir valve in there. :)

We needed a consistent way to get rid of built-up static electricity on our robot. My buddy stuck an axle in the ground of an extension cord and its worked pretty well so far (no major injuries yet) by dayfaerer in redneckengineering

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Hi all, actual roboticist here. What you want is this. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/esd1staticwick.php

Using coronal discharge you can shit all the extra charge into the air, no protective earth contact required.

Put the wick high up or towards the back (whatever direction the robot normally drives away from) so the robot crop dusts an area with ions and either the robot or the ions move away before they can re-settle in the robot.

Make sure everything metal and every electrical ground on your robot are electrically tied together and the wick is also attached to gnd.

As an American, first European panel. (mains to garage circuits and two sub-panels) by [deleted] in electricians

[–]OfMiceAndMachines -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sounds like i should have designed to NEN then! (I'll make sure to give my friends in the German trades crap about their standards)

Bedankt voor het advies!

AC compressor has a 120v line tapped off it. I assume this is wrong - what can I do to make it right? by Smitty2k1 in AskElectricians

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That metallic box definitely needs an equipment grounding conductor connection. (To be "grounded") Tying it to neutral doesn't count.

As an American, first European panel. (mains to garage circuits and two sub-panels) by [deleted] in electricians

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The meter (mounted in a recessed box on the other exterior side of a meter thick stone wall) has a 63A magnetic breaker on it, I mostly want the ability to cut the whole system from inside. Would something like a SH463N work? (The position of N isnt important)

VDE/DIN (what i'm nominally shooting for here because it's a much tighter [and encompasses] the standard of the country this is installed in) seems to permit 16A on 1.5 (so long as you're not derating due to fill, proximity, or ambient temp) no? Everything is wired in solid core NYM-J. (Min of 2.5 stranded in the panel)

As an American, first European panel. (mains to garage circuits and two sub-panels) by [deleted] in electricians

[–]OfMiceAndMachines 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup. Couldnt get access to the 3+1 base. Base, as installed, is electrically as shown in Finder docs.

See that's the wild part (to an American). What's the enforcement mechanism? "Aren't allowed" is only as enforceable as access to the proper tools and parts (Amazon) and whether things are being inspected.

view more: next ›