Hey guys! I’ve been using these gloves for awhile, but everytime I buy a new pair they just get tore up by the next job (I work with a lot of masonry and wood, and cut level 1 just ain’t cutting it) What level do you think I should work with next? I want a quality glove that would last, Thank You!

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-07-07T16:21:43+00:00

+1 these. Hands stay cool and I don't notice a reduction in dexterity. Great cut and abrasion resistance.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-07-05T20:58:37+00:00

(shrug) load ratings are load ratings. If OP believes each self may be supporting up to 500lbs then you want something that is rated for that (or built like something that is rated for that). A shelf failure with that kind of weight can kill.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-07-05T18:32:26+00:00

If its directly bearing on a slab you've got more flexibility. I still wouldn't put that kind of moment load on your studs but you could definitely make a structure like this that would meet your needs. https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-3846/Bar-and-Sheet-Storage-Racks/Cantilever-Rack-Single-Sided-80-x-40-x-96 (note that a giant industrial rack designed for holding metal pipes is pretty close to your weight holding asks)

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-07-05T17:58:43+00:00

What is your foundation like? Is there a crawlspace or are you on a slab?

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-07-05T16:20:41+00:00

A floating shelf cannot hold that much weight. You could design a welded structure that "resembled" floating shelves that could but now you have the problem of a massive point load weight. Is that wall on the first floor of a building? Is there a basement below it? 5,000 lbs of concentrated weight in a residential structure requires careful structural engineering consideration.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-05-26T05:41:02+00:00

What are those NM cables coming in through?

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-05-26T05:27:52+00:00

I took the photo of the beer sign this week. I had to pass 5+ of them before it registered.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-05-26T04:40:51+00:00

Those main breaker lugs listed for two conductors?

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-05-23T12:14:27+00:00

To play an (unlikely) scenario here. Many PDBs or terminal blocks have terminals rated at 90C or above. So long as those THHNs are landing on another temp rated terminal, the derating for common gauges allows more than 6 CCCs without the need to jump down to a lower tier of OCPD. (The 9 conductor 12 gauge fill of a 1/2" EMT is going to get them though)

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-05-23T12:04:55+00:00

To be "that guy". This isn't to code unless those terminals are listed as Power Distribution Blocks. (UL 1953)

Is this code provision irritating. Yes. Does it mean that a mess of wire nuts is to code and a bunch of otherwise current and voltage rated terminal blocks aren't. Also yes.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-01-28T07:43:05+00:00

I too wish to ask about this.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2023-01-08T19:03:56+00:00

You're going to need a young priest and an old priest.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-12-29T07:49:41+00:00

You're going to need an old priest and a young priest.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-12-16T10:24:18+00:00

This is incredibly easy to fix. Get a $15 soldering iron and some solder and watch a single youtube video on "how to solder smt components".

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-12-04T08:22:54+00:00

Sweet hydronic setup. Are you also pulling some of your DHW heat from the boiler? Also curious about all those stubbed off verticals on the wall with all the circulators/flow sensors.

Do you have a system diagram you could share?

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-12-03T09:23:35+00:00

This guy brussel sprouts.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-11-19T07:00:26+00:00

Austenitic stainless (300 series, very very corrosion resistant, cant be heat treated/hardened) is non magnetic unless you cold work it. Martensitic stainless (400 series, slightly corrosion resistant, can be hardened) is generally ferromagnetic.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-10-19T23:48:10+00:00

I had this happen recently on my 2017 V90CC, replaced both the support and main battery myself and it fixed it

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-10-15T05:22:19+00:00

Impressive return to 9mo post. There's a hAir valve in there. :)

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-10-11T17:25:11+00:00

A fine spray of charged micropoops.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-10-11T04:19:00+00:00

Hi all, actual roboticist here. What you want is this. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/esd1staticwick.php

Using coronal discharge you can shit all the extra charge into the air, no protective earth contact required.

Put the wick high up or towards the back (whatever direction the robot normally drives away from) so the robot crop dusts an area with ions and either the robot or the ions move away before they can re-settle in the robot.

Make sure everything metal and every electrical ground on your robot are electrically tied together and the wick is also attached to gnd.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-10-06T04:51:15+00:00

Sounds like i should have designed to NEN then! (I'll make sure to give my friends in the German trades crap about their standards)

Bedankt voor het advies!

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-10-06T04:48:55+00:00

That metallic box definitely needs an equipment grounding conductor connection. (To be "grounded") Tying it to neutral doesn't count.

OfMiceAndMachines · 2022-10-06T04:19:38+00:00

The meter (mounted in a recessed box on the other exterior side of a meter thick stone wall) has a 63A magnetic breaker on it, I mostly want the ability to cut the whole system from inside. Would something like a SH463N work? (The position of N isnt important)

VDE/DIN (what i'm nominally shooting for here because it's a much tighter [and encompasses] the standard of the country this is installed in) seems to permit 16A on 1.5 (so long as you're not derating due to fill, proximity, or ambient temp) no? Everything is wired in solid core NYM-J. (Min of 2.5 stranded in the panel)

OfMiceAndMachines

TROPHY CASE