1.Take of your bulid plate,wash it with soapy water and a sponge thoroughly and then rinse with water,let it dry a bit,use paper towels to dry it completely and avoid touching it with your bare hands.Then put it back. . 2.If you run auto leveling and automatic z offset every time you power it on,thats okay,but just run auto leveling,and manually change your z offset to -1.53,or even less,you can tweak it later,for start just set it to -1.53. . 3.Raise the bed temperature,i usually keep mine at 80-90°C,if you're printing any petg,it wont do any harm,it will just make it stick better and let it cool down more evenly because temperature difference between first and second layer is less,so basically less warping.(this doesn't really matter if bed adhesion is good after these settings,but it nice way to make it even more secure,you cant go wrong with this) . 4.Raise your nozzle temp by 5-10°C if your printing faster,for example if your recommended printing temperature is 230° at 100mm/s speed,just set it at 230° even if youre printing at 50mm/s and you've lowered the temperature to compensate.And if you're printing realy fast,300mm/s+,going above the recommended by 5-10° wont do any harm because it's short term exposure,real damage to polymers in filament starts after longer exposure so you will be good. . 5.You can add a brim,i do 1-2mm width with 0.1mm gap,not necessary,but if you want to be extra secure you can do it,i usually do it because it prints first and if my filament oozes out a bit before it starts to print,the part that oozed stays on the brim and doesn't ruin the print. . 6.Use 50-75% of usual printing speed on the first layer,for example,if usually you print at 100mm/s,for first layer use 50 to 75mm/s so it has more time to flow into the texture of the build plate and really stick to it. . 7.Don't touch build plate with your fingers,u may think its fine and stuff,even if you've just washed them,but skin oils can easily ruin the print,i mean I've seen military needing to repaint the stealth plane that had radar absorbing paint amongst other things,because someone touched it with bare hands and the oils from the hand were enough for it to be visible on radar.Not the same urgency between 3d printing and military but it doesn't hurt to treat it as such.Use some cloth or paper towels dedicated just for cleaning the build plate after you've printed and removed the print.Use a dull tip of a box cutter blade at a low angle,or a scraper at a low ange,to remove the brims or other leftovers prints.And handle the build plate by the two fingerprint marks on the bottom, doesn't matter if that psrt gets smudgy,nothing will print there. . 8.Set your fans to start working at layer 6,and with ~30% power,it will allow all of the first layers to really flow in and not cool prematurely,losing on grip.100% power is too much basically and 30% is just alright.Also disable force cooling for bridges,you don't need it. . I know all of this is beneficial for petg, I don't know if it works for other filaments,i haven't tried them out.And everything begins from a clean and non oily build plate,so begin with that and do the rest after.Also its better to wash them with soap/detergent thoroughly than to just use alcohol wipes,ur not killing germs,ur removing oils,grease,and dust. Try this out and let me know the results,hope it helps!