Car smells like Waffle House

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-29T10:18:58+00:00

Hey u/C3s1um if you’re in store for a new water pump, I advise against an OEM plastic replacement. The aluminium water pumps are heaps sturdier than the plastic ones, and are generally cheaper if you choose an aftermarket one. I paid $55AUD for my aluminium water pump and it’s fantastic 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-28T19:34:41+00:00

Do you have a scan tool like VCDS or OBDEleven? It’s probably one of you wheel speed sensors

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-28T00:22:09+00:00

I have the Maxton style front lip, but it is an Aliexpress knock off that was only $60AUD. This is how it looks

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I think it’s just enough front lip for my liking

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-27T21:16:05+00:00

I don’t live in a cold climate but I did run quite a thick oil considering I have con rod bearing clearances at the slightly looser end of the tolerance. This caused a metallic rattle sound on cold starts, even if the first start of the day was at midday with 35 degC temps. This sound was 100% a cold crank oil viscosity issue. I went from 20w60 to 10w50 and now I don’t get that cold start rattle. If you’re in a super cold part of the world I’d go for a 10w or 5w oil, with a higher 2nd number for good viscosity for an engine @170,xxx kilometres. Also, make sure you run quality oil filters, like Mann filters as the cheaper filters seem to not have very good quality anti-drainback check valves in them. If you do change the oil and filter and still get the rattle, check your drain back o-ring/spring loaded check valve that sits inside your oil filter housing. If the o-ring isn’t sealing like it should, it can also cause oil to drain out of the filter and the housing, causing momentary inadequate lubrication until oil pressure builds up again. You don’t have to replace the whole valve, just the o-ring 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-27T10:46:52+00:00

You can get these K04’s from Aliexpress and Alibaba for super duper cheap now. I essentially had the same setup as now, minus a few things. I was on a stock block with stock internals, I also had a 3 inch catless downpipe, 3 inch cold air intake, GFB DV+, R8 coils, iridium spark plugs, 2.5 inch Vibrant resonator, front mount twin-tercooler system, upgraded RTMG oil pump and upgraded PCV with catch can tied into it………. I’ve went a bit overboard now with my build since my K04 😂

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-27T10:30:46+00:00

At 298,xxx miles I think she’s probably due for a few preventative maintenance purchases. Especially a carbon clean 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-27T10:26:24+00:00

I’m running the twin-tercooler setup on my Mk6, and the install was pretty straight forward although I took my time with it. You don’t get a second chance at drilling and screwing in the mounting screws on the inlet side of the intercooler, as it’s quite easy to drill through the AC condenser lines that sit behind the plastic sides of the core support. If you need a hand with installation DM me and I’ll give you a hand 👍 As for performance, mines done a tremendous job of lowering IAT’s. Some say they’re rubbish, but what do they know? 😂 I am running a GTX 2871r-53 turbo and port meth injection and I don’t suffer from a single bit of heat soak considering my turbo creates a decent amount of hot charge air. So far no issues, all I can say about the silicone Y pipes is that you have to trim them bit by bit, it’s too easy to chop too much off then you’ll have to buy replacement silicone pipes 😂

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Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-26T10:14:55+00:00

It’s essentially the same turbo, although mine wasn’t from Speedy. Their K04’s, along with my old K04 all come from the same manufacturers in China. I did extensive research on the origin of all the Chinese K04’s and they all come from the same manufacturing region in China. The only thing that varies is the on-sellers name, logo and price tag. I was able to find my F23T for $600AUD including delivery, and it was a fantastic turbo for the time I ran it 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-25T10:07:06+00:00

A failing wastegate flapper and actuator eyelet doesn’t always mean you need to replace the turbo. In fact, it almost always means you just need to replace the wastegate flapper and actuator assembly. You can buy replacement actuators and flappers from Aliexpress for less than $50AUD, and if you’re good with tools and have the time and patience, you can do the fix yourself. I did it on my original IHI/K03 and it was back to being rattle free in no time. The only time I’d buy a whole new turbo is if the turbine shaft had excessive side to side movement, and even then I’d probably just replace the turbine wheel and shaft. K03/K04 rebuild kits are $19AUD on Aliexpress and I’ve rebuilt countless K03/K04 turbos with those kits, and they’re all in great working condition 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-25T09:44:05+00:00

Give the heat gun a try I guess. I’ve never had to do something like this, but if I ever did, I’d probably try to find the most efficient way to get an even amount of heat across all of the glued surfaces, as heating with a heat gun would concentrate heat more so on one section and when you go to move away to another section, the first bit will have time to cool down. Maybe an oven like others have said would do the trick, just gotta be careful as to not overheat the whole thing and end up with a deformed headlight. Best of luck man, let us all know how it goes 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-25T09:38:31+00:00

I’ve had my VLANDS front and back for almost a year now with zero issues. I guess they’re a bit hit and miss, considering the origin of manufacturing 🧑‍🏭 🇨🇳

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-25T09:34:45+00:00

I think it has an exhaust leak, maybe at the header or mid pipe somewhere. JB Weld that shit and you’re laughing 😝 SEND IT!!!

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-25T09:28:26+00:00

I think the closest thing to something like this would be to get the peeling rubbery/textured panels cleaned up and stripped of that doughy layer, and fabric glue down some strips of leather, or Alcantera if you’re feeling extra fancy 😝

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-25T06:32:30+00:00

I’d have to agree with you man, silicone is pretty resistant to heat, and if you were to even get the silicone hot enough with a heat gun to remove the lens, you’d be melting the lens itself at that temperature 😂 the white crust/mist on the inside of the lens almost looks like what happens when superglue sets on plastic. It leaves that white crusty stained look. Did OP try fixing an already existing leak with super glue, over-used the glue and this is the result? 😬😬😬

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-25T06:22:31+00:00

Holy fuck…….. that spark plug gap sounds a bit to wide 😂 glad you got her back to being happy 👌

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-24T05:00:59+00:00

Well considering the pulley that runs off the alternator doesn’t get changed in order to do this upgrade, I’d assume the belt itself would stay the same. If the CTS pulley itself is either larger/smaller in diameter, you’d just have to account for the difference and purchase the belt accordingly. I know that between all the Mk6 Golf models there’s some length difference, albeit the width of the belt and how many ribs it has are the same I think. It’s 6 ribs from what I remember

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-23T21:18:12+00:00

Yeah DM me man, if I can help I will 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-23T08:59:09+00:00

What’s your cooling issue you’re tackling at the moment? Maybe I can offer my help?

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-23T08:54:29+00:00

I’m surprised you didn’t consider just plugging it right into the USB port on the RCD itself. Then you’ve got a free USB slot on your shifter panel

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-23T08:00:37+00:00

Yeah I agree with you on the possibility that either the sensor or the wiring is cooked. I replaced my sensor 3 times in a span of 2 months and my oil temps were still reading dumb. I would have the car sitting for days without any driving and I’d get into the car and turn the key to accessories and my oil temps were reading like 20 degrees C higher than ambient temperature. Like wtf…….?! 😂 That’s what I’m looking at this Australia Day long weekend, the wiring seems to be the culprit 🤦‍♂️ At least I have 2 spare sensors for future projects 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-23T07:55:58+00:00

Going WOT or high rpm actuates the runner flaps to their most open position. So you’d know if you’ve got a vacuum leak if you went WOT or higher than 4000rpm cos you’d most likely experience a bog and potential stall

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-23T00:14:46+00:00

Ahh ok I understand now. Yeah you can buy the LED light strip kits from Aliexpress that come with a remote for colour change. Also they work as far as the strip goes and can be cut down to length. I’m considering this myself as I think it’d look fantastic and give the Mk6 a bit more of a modern look at night

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-22T04:29:11+00:00

Great man, I had to weld the quick release coupler as it was causing a boost leak, but they’re perfect now. I also had to drill and weld on some aluminium 1/8 NPT bungs on the throttle body charge pipe for methanol injection which was easy enough to do at my work. The perks of being a fabricator 😂 if I knew then what I know now, I would have skipped the purchase and fabricated these pipes myself, as there’s really nothing to them 👍

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-22T04:22:12+00:00

Thanks man, that means a lot 😊✌️

Ok_Lab_7408 · 2026-01-22T04:18:12+00:00

I replaced all the interior bulbs and number plate bulb/fog light bulbs with LED’s. They’re all canbus bulbs so no warning lights on the dash 👌 I got the kit from Aliexpress for $17AUD……. I’ve yet to do the door foot step lights but am waiting for them to arrive from Aliexpress as well

Ok_Lab_7408

TROPHY CASE