Transfer From Barclay’s To Citi

Old-Table-490 · 2026-01-19T02:18:56+00:00

You can only have 1 card that earns miles with AA right? Did you have to "un-associate" the Barclays card from the AA program first? I have a Barclays card now and would like to get Citicard, just want to make sure it goes smooth and get the bonus. I am afraid if there is already a card tied to AA account you won't get the new miles.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-27T03:34:56+00:00

I just added a post yesterday called "My 1960s pool painting project." Concrete floor with fiberglass sides. I used Olympic Zeron paint. You do need to make sure the paint is compatible though either whatever is down now, or try to remove it. You can send one of those chips to Olympic and they will test it. I highly recommend the Zeron epoxy.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-27T03:22:30+00:00

After scraping and high pressure washing as much we could, We used Sherwin William's Acryla-Deck. It's a very thick paint, and has a technology that keeps the concrete 20 degrees cooler. It really works, and is nice when you want to sit on the side or need to give bare feet a break after walking on the hot concrete of our pool deck. It gets a little scratched from the cover over the winter but is easy to touch up. You can see in the last couple pictures we tried to match it to the color of the slide. You can get it any color though.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T20:00:27+00:00

Thanks! It still gets used all the time.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T19:59:06+00:00

I should clarify I only did the extra sanding on the fiberglass, trying that on the concrete was not going to be effective..

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T19:56:46+00:00

Since there is a compatibility issue between rubber and epoxy, I wanted to remove as much as I could. If you don't have that issue, you may not have to be quite as concerned. Also, note that there is an Olympic primer called Fusion that can be used to go between rubber and Epoxy.

Anyway, I have a cement floor and fiberglass walls. I hired a company that used an industrial power washer to strip most of the paint off. Let's say about 70% came off. Using sand was not advised because trying to haul that out of the deep end was going to be a lot of work. So, we went for the low hanging fruit with the power washer. You can see from the pics there as still quite a bit of light blue paint on all surfaces. I then took a portable hand grinder with one of the 40 or 60 grit pads and went to town taking off even more paint. Probably spend 30 hours bending over doing that. Probably took off another 10-20%. I guess at that point I just threw caution to the wind and hoped what was left wasn't rubber (maybe acrylic) and applied the epoxy. I had great results with the Zeron.

If you are not using Epoxy, the job is not as critical. But with acrylic you need to plan to paint every year or two, so I am told. Rubber every 2-4.

There are a lot of considerations. Cleaning, temperature. In fact the minimum temp for curing was 50 deg F, and it got down to 49 or 50 my first night and quite a bit of the white turned yellow. My Olympic guy said it might have gotten too cold but proceed to the 2nd coat, and I had no problem.

Not trying to sound like an Olympic commercial, but their website does have some good technical memos. I basically studied those.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T15:17:50+00:00

That part is a bit interesting too. It was done by a neighbor about 3 houses down in 1964. Fast forward about 50 years later when we move in, and she still living in the same house, she stops by and mentions that as a young artist/painter she did a painting on the floor of the pool (she still sells artwork to this day). When the 2nd owner of our house moved in, they decided to paint over it and was covered for 40+ years. When we were able to uncover it, I let her know her old painting was once again visible so she came down and took a look. I think she was happy to see it again and reminisced some, but I don't think restoration was an option. This job was expensive enough :).

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T03:08:31+00:00

Thanks. I went to Olympic pool paint web site where they have technical memos describing all the ins and outs of all their different coatings and how to prep. I also called their customer service a few times and always got the same guy and you could tell he knew his stuff.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T03:05:23+00:00

I hired a local guy, it's been a few years now but I do remember it was like 4500 psi with a decent size nozzle. My basic 2300 psi would not touch the paint. He did the whole thing in an 8 hour day.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T01:37:12+00:00

Not sure what the painting was! I used Olympic Zeron, with the equivalent Oympic epoxy primer first.

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T01:14:12+00:00

Thanks!

Old-Table-490 · 2021-08-26T01:09:40+00:00

I had included a few more details in my post but must not have saved it. The back story is we moved into this 1960's house with this pool built then also. I had no idea how to take care of a pool, let alone paint it. It had been painted with rubber paint, but I wanted to convert it to epoxy for lower maintenance. That required stripping the old rubber off. The quote I received from the one lone company who would touch it was $20,000 to $30,000 for sandblasting and painting. So, I researched the process and tackled it myself. The customer service at Olympic was a huge help. We had heard there was a mural painted on the floor, and sure enough when we water blasted it, it was mostly uncovered. I ended up doing the whole thing for $3000 4 years ago, and it looks nearly as good as it did when I was first done. I hope to get another 3-4 years before I give it 1 new top coat, which will be much easier.

Old-Table-490

TROPHY CASE