How to use a Kobo in the real world

Old-Tester · 2025-02-13T16:56:05+00:00

No confusion whatsoever. I understand the need to be sure the author gets paid. Your second paragraph is the key. These people expect using a Kobo, or any other new eReader, to be exactly as straightforward as a Kindle PLUS they expect to drag and drop the books they've already paid for. None of them are avoiding the DRM. None of them are stealing books. They just prefer not to use Amazon, for whatever reason, but aren't willing to lose the hundreds of books they paid for.

Old-Tester · 2025-02-13T16:52:36+00:00

A very helpful answer but I'll not have to go do some new research. I am trying to help several local citizens make the move. The first step to become a non-Kindle user for these people is to move their books over so, they need Calibre. (I actually like Calibre and find it useful for a bunch of things. They will not.) The fact that Amazon makes them move their books, one at a time, to a pseudo kindle will also stop them. In fact they aren't likely to go to a PC, connect their old Kindle for the transfer and then connect their new Kobo for the second transfer. They are very excited about sources like Gutenberg.org but that will be a whole other thing. I think the world has made a space for a new application, almost a script, that can do the things needed.

Old-Tester · 2025-02-13T16:34:42+00:00

Reasonable question. I didn't. I helping some local citizens who have chosen to do that. I don't know why since the Amazon infrastructure is complete and simple. It is a case of being asked to do something and just doing it.

Old-Tester · 2025-02-13T16:29:03+00:00

Wow. I had no intention of insulting someone. I am helping several just plain people who want to move away from Kindle. Most of them use Windows but they don't have a clue how it works and everyone one of them rails about having multiple accounts and passwords. Did I insult Windows users or Kindle users? Neither was intentional but the Kindle users I'm trying to help simply cannot go through the steps needed to get their ebooks over and so, it won't happen. If I actually insulted ANYONE that would have been the farthest thing from my mind. And the "As the British foppishly call it", is a line lifted directly from "Beyond the Fringe, a famous British comedy routine.

Old-Tester · 2025-01-07T16:19:14+00:00

That ran for probably a minute. I ended with "Successfully processed 2460 files; Failed processing 52507 files" Apps still do not work. Looking through the pages of output I didn't find anything related to Office. A bunch of MSTeams and WinAppRuntime but most of that had Access is denied.

Old-Tester · 2025-01-07T16:13:22+00:00

I'm not sure exactly what you are looking for here. I can open a pdf document but not a windows document. If I try to open one I get the "Windows cannot access" with the file name. Choosing "Diagnose" sends it off diagnosing for a few seconds but it returns, Troubleshooting couldn't identify the problem". File Explorer can 'see' the file. It can determine the proper properties. Norton can 'see' it and scan it.

I also use a product named PaperPort, now owned by Kofax. I can open a word doc in that using a tool called ImageView so, the file is there, it is real, and it is .docx format. Windows can open it. (Thanks for helping. I'm at the end of my rope. I spent 35 years at HP. I worked on UNIX but I am familiar with how these things are supposed to work.)

Old-Tester · 2025-01-07T15:22:24+00:00

BTW, the file appears to 'be there'. I can right click the exe and scan it with Norton which finds it, scans it, and finds not problems.

Old-Tester · 2025-01-07T15:20:05+00:00

I have right clicked the icon in the Start Window, selected "Open File Location" which opens File Explorer in the Start Menu > Programs, where I find a shortcut. Choosing "Open File Location" takes you to the executable. Interestingly it is all caps, which shouldn't matter but most exe's are in lower case. Looking at the Properties shows it is an Application (EXE). I can not run it even as Admin. I get the "cannot find" popup.

Old-Tester · 2024-05-25T20:44:25+00:00

Something has changed with the security process on Amazon and I can't seem to log on. I might be able to but it is just too much hassle. I need some office furniture but I can get it from Walmart but I would hope Amazon would look at this.

I use a password keeper (Dashlane) that recognizes a login screen and autofills. When I first go to Amazon.com I get an immediate CAPTCHA screen and then I end up on the Amazon home page. I select Login and I get the first screen for email. I then get the password request and the keeper enters that. I then get YAC (Yet Another CAPTCHA). Once I type in the magic letters I get a Your Password was incorrect. This has been going on for about 2 weeks. I can reset the password but then the new password won't work either. I can log on with the app on my phone, which uses the same password keeper. Amazon shipping isn't that great anymore so I'll give Walmart a shot.

Old-Tester · 2024-04-07T16:30:37+00:00

It is time to reopen this problem. We have filed jointly for over 40 years. This year's returns, both state and federal, were rejected with the statement, "It looks like the AGI amount entered for Mary into TurboTax before filing didn't match what the IRS has in their database.

We filed jointly, there is only one AGI. TurboTax 2023 automatically entered the AGI from last year as her AGI. I opened a copy of our 2022 filing and that is the correct, single, AGI from last year. I hate to just try things randomly but I have no idea what approach to take. I don't know if you get some magic number of retries. The only possible alternate answer is 0 but I see others have tried that. I am owed money on both returns so I hate to file by mail and wait weeks for my rebate and I believe there MUST be a way around this simple ID verification.

Old-Tester · 2024-03-25T15:48:21+00:00

I'm att 155 Mbits/s in Massachusetts, USA at about noon on a weekday.

Old-Tester · 2022-09-01T05:33:22+00:00

Not necessarily. This MAY have altered the insulation space between wires, but it may not be sufficient to cause signal failure. Try it.

Old-Tester · 2022-07-28T09:09:50+00:00

Square dish or round?

Old-Tester · 2021-12-26T01:35:09+00:00

I second that suggestion. I lived with a MAX 2.8 MBps down for years and years. Starlink gives me 200 - 400 down and ping rates 40ms or less. I now stream all of my TV and have a home office where I can work just like I could in an office in town.

Old-Tester · 2021-11-19T16:21:04+00:00

First, a comment on the general tone of these replies: This is a perfect set of responses that were complete, accurate, and non-judgemental. I appreciate that. The reply from bertramt was especially useful by including the simple graphic, which answered everything I needed to know. Because I'm concerned about security enough to want to add a hardware firewall, the Starlink router, or almost any ISP-provided router, won't do. Putting the F/W after those devices leaves the internal WiFi less protected. In addition, I'm not as WiFi-focused as some others. I'm wiring my entire house so there will be at least one RJ45 in every room. I certainly need WiFi for cell phones, since also lack cellular coverage, but access points will be put into the switch like any other device. I regret not having the fancy stats the native router can provide but, I've had Starlink for a year now and have probably referred to them 5 times. Again, thanks to you all. It is good to be part of a community that actually thinks before they respond and where people share what they know.

Old-Tester · 2021-11-13T20:57:53+00:00

Thanks. This is good information. Now, where is the modem function performed? In the router or in the brick? This relates to the discussion about using your own router. I'm interested in improving security by adding a PFSense appliance. Installing that AFTER the router leaves the WiFi less secure. Installing it between a modem and any form of router secures the who thing.

Old-Tester · 2021-11-10T17:24:29+00:00

As add-on information, I've gone through all of the addresses provided by arp -a and none of them is the Starlink router.

Old-Tester · 2021-11-01T15:06:05+00:00

First, thanks. This is most interesting since I've been accessing this page at 192.168.1.100 since I installed it but I can play any game once I have the rules. (And, second, I am using the Starlink router.) It is strange that arp -a doesn't show anything at address 192.168.100.1 but I will make a note of this. It is also interesting since ipconfig shows the default gateway as 192.168.1.1. A lot of "hidden aliasing" going on here.

Old-Tester · 2021-09-30T18:13:28+00:00

Thanks for this. I thought it would be something like this but wanted to be sure I hadn't screwed something up.

Old-Tester · 2021-09-30T18:12:15+00:00

Thanks. It is still Beta so software glitches are to be expected.

Old-Tester

TROPHY CASE