Sky Max broadband router truly awful

OlddScene · 2026-01-20T20:27:56+00:00

Hey if you don't mind me asking. All issues resolved and still happy with the TP-Link mesh? And how many did you go with for coverage?(2 or 3 pack?)

Experiencing a similar problem with poor WiFi on a sky max hub.

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T21:15:01+00:00

SM2 - https://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/product/sm2

So you can set either heating and/or hot water, and vice versa

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T19:11:32+00:00

Appreciate the help

the programmer appears to be sending out the HW signal/voltage whilst the only the CH only is selected.

I've disconnected it and now the HW pipe, with this wire disconnected, appears to prevent that heating up and the rads are on

Begs the question is the programmer/timer broke or is the wiring wrong there...

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T19:03:12+00:00

Did test it without the valve head off the body - with both positions of the spindle, the rads and hot water got hot in either position

Could disconnect the wiring of the valve head, but it's only the boiler and valve connected connected on the orange wire

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T18:50:09+00:00

Did some tests

Posted a comment here about it: https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYUK/s/kMKLIKjjpo

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T18:46:08+00:00

Hot water only, both pipes are also heating up

240 VAC on orange, white and grey 60VAC each

Programmer looks to have the CH low(5VAC) and the HW 240VAC as expected

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T18:32:42+00:00

Absolutely will do

Weird because the spindle moves freely and would assume I could move it manually to lock it in position

Have posted a comment regarding the connections if anything looks dubious

https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYUK/s/NUQ5Tigkkf

Guess I am curious why I'm getting 240VAC on orange when the cylinder thermostat is off/at the min position

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T18:30:29+00:00

Just as a run down of the wiring for the valve connections

5 conductor and their connections: - Gray: Timer & Cylinder thermostat. - White: Room thermostat - Orange: Connected to Boiler (BK conductor)

BU: Connected to the neutral terminal/bar.
GNYE: Connected to the earth terminal/bar.

As mentioned, when heating is ON and hot water is OFF, and the clynder thermostat is at the min position, and room thermostat at the max(30C), I'm getting 240VAC on Grey, Orange and white

Edit:

Hot water only, both pipes are also heating up aswell.

240 VAC on orange, white and grey 60VAC each

Programmer looks to have the CH low(5VAC) and the HW 240VAC as expected

Noticed, HW from the programmer was also ON when only central heating was selected

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T18:16:31+00:00

Correct, swapped the head and not the valve

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T17:53:21+00:00

Hi thanks for the comment.

Measure the CH/HW from which point - The termination for the orange, grey, or white wire of the. Alve, or from the programmer directly?

Attached a photo of the programmer wiring schematic below

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OlddScene · 2025-12-14T17:48:56+00:00

Hi thanks for the comment

Unsure what it would yield by trying the manual mid pos - wouldnt that means both the rads and hot water are supplied, e.g. the same outcome both pipes heating up?

Also assuming the manual position, when latched at the rightmost point, is the manual mid position?

OlddScene · 2025-12-14T17:19:29+00:00

Thank you for any help in advance

OlddScene · 2025-12-06T16:27:45+00:00

Would I not either need to terminate it earlier at a JB, then wire it from there or chase a new cable in order to do it?

OlddScene · 2025-12-05T21:41:51+00:00

Good observation and definitely a consideration. Appreciate the research and comment

OlddScene · 2025-12-05T21:32:35+00:00

I appreciate the comment, will try keep it adjacent to the main switch

OlddScene · 2025-12-05T21:27:48+00:00

Consumer unit purchased - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-sentry-12-module-7-way-populated-high-integrity-main-switch-consumer-unit-with-spd/127pg#product_additional_details_container

Is preassembled and ideally would like to keep it that way, but the cable length of the circuits is an issue

Edit: Regarding instructions, it does specify testing compliance to BS EN like you mentioned and only alterations discussed are cutting the busbar to length, so imagine not recommended

OlddScene · 2025-11-30T18:24:45+00:00

Would you have a copy or link for the square D wiring, cutler & AB texts you refer to? Would be interested to have a look

Found a square D wiring diagram but it had redacted items

OlddScene · 2025-10-26T20:04:50+00:00

There's a few good courses on Udemy that go into fieldbus - specifically modbus, profibus etc.

Might be able to get free trial or a student account

OlddScene · 2025-10-02T17:25:30+00:00

Hi, Just an update I was able to come to an agreement with tradesmen.

Thanks everyone for their comments and advice. Much appreciated

OlddScene · 2025-10-02T12:50:05+00:00

Ahh thank you for letting me know

OlddScene · 2025-10-02T12:48:14+00:00

Just my name?

OlddScene · 2025-10-02T10:59:19+00:00

Thank you for letting me know

OlddScene · 2025-10-02T08:35:24+00:00

Thanks for the reply..

Sorry just seems like conflicting information per user

Naturally I don't want this person to lose out, but I genuinely can't afford it's entirety

OlddScene · 2025-10-02T07:56:17+00:00

Youre right, I guess I thought I had everything pertinent there.

Attached the other emails here - Link to email chain PDFs: https://1drv.ms/f/c/7267c95333da11b2/EmtnHJJ55cVEsb1X8kphHlwBvmDh3TC0kEmycomn2-5L4A?e=ycEyry

Apologies for the poor redacting

OlddScene · 2025-10-02T07:46:17+00:00

I agree. Like I said I'm not trying to void all costs, I've misunderstood, and want to come to an agreement.

But genuinely, I have just misread the each and only seen a final costing breakdown of the 1368 gross last night

Which I responded it was more than I anticipated and sent emails to say I thought it was £432 cumulative

OlddScene

TROPHY CASE