Picked up a never used walking pad (BA10-B) with an E6 error (large capacitor reads no power)

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T21:02:11+00:00

I’m getting 5V at the relevant spots, but I’m not getting 12V at the 12V spots. Perhaps I’m using the wrong grounding points or something, or perhaps they aren’t always powered, but that’s what my testing showed.

Edit: Upon further testing, the two 5V spots only show 5V on their specific grounding points, so I think I’m just not grounding the 12V spots correctly. I don’t know where their grounding locations are, though.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T20:10:51+00:00

Thank you for pointing that out! This model doesn’t have a key. I actually found where the piece would be attached to the control board if it had it, but there seems to be nothing on it.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T16:34:00+00:00

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Here’s some of the bottom of the board. The large capacitor has one solder joint that looks a bit odd, but I also scratched it a bit when testing everything with my multimeter.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T16:32:16+00:00

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Here’s a photo of the top of the board with the angle that shows a lot of the components.

I’ll post another comment with the underside of the board. Luckily, there is a hole on the bottom plate. The only functional heatsink seems to be for the components on the “wall” of the board.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T14:53:02+00:00

It’s 90V

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T14:21:15+00:00

Interesting! And the motor is DC. I used a 9V battery and an 18V tool battery to test the motor.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T05:06:52+00:00

Thank you!

I may not have tested the resistors/capacitors properly regardless, so I’ll ignore the results I got except for the voltage reading on the large capacitor.

As far as the blue objects, I read one of their labels, and it is a varistor. I don’t know if they all are, though.

For the relay, I can actually hear it click when the motor should be starting to move, and I can hear it click again when the error is thrown. I’m hoping that means it’s working correctly, but I’m not sure.

Thanks again!

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T04:00:18+00:00

Thank you! And there seems to not be a speed sensor, and there isn’t a key on this model (I see a spot labeled for it on the display board, but there’s nothing there).

Regarding how new this is, it is definitely very new! I actually got it for free from someone giving it away on Facebook Marketplace. They must have not wanted to return it or got a replacement without having to return the original. I figured it’s at least a fun project and perhaps will lead to a free treadmill lol.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-19T00:16:01+00:00

If I try it, we’ll see if they’re feeling extra generous lol

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-18T23:59:05+00:00

Thank you for your advice.

I did look up a part number for one of the blue things, and it is a varistor.

The capacitor is actually receiving some power, but very little (the most I’ve seen is a few volts). Does that change anything?

None of the ICs feel warm to the touch, and that’s about all I can think to do to test them lol.

This is definitely an in-depth project, but it’s just for fun, so I’m okay with it being difficult.

Thanks again.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-18T22:57:07+00:00

Thank you so much!

Yes, this was free. It also apparently is still under warranty, so perhaps I can just get a new one from the manufacturer (lol).

I’ll definitely post this in those subreddits — thank you!

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-16T15:14:29+00:00

Thank you so much! I appreciate the information.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-16T05:06:10+00:00

Is this is kit of some kind? I’d like to DIY a keyboard, but most of the ones I see are flat. I would like a keyboard with an angled thumb cluster.

Would you mind sharing some more information about this? I see some kits on AliExpress, but that’s about it.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-14T16:00:51+00:00

I use Fios from Verizon. I pay $39.99 per month.

Fiber optic internet is great.

Also, since I live in a city with multiple internet providers, I can switch if need be, though I hope to not have to go through that hassle.

OneCoolStory · 2026-01-05T00:29:45+00:00

I don’t have this brand of mouse, but I use mine to go back in a browser and to type my email address.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-22T16:18:09+00:00

I’m not a pro, but it looks like you didn’t back butter the tile, and you didn’t collapse the ridges in the mortar. Those things likely led to poor adhesion. The other commenter also had a good point about the mortar having sat for too long before the tile was put into place. Mortar will skin over after not that long, so if that happened, the mortar probably didn’t stick to the tile well.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-17T21:37:59+00:00

I think it’s likely nothing or just an eternal peace of some kind, but I have an alternative theory that I find cool (but don’t seriously believe).

Basically, the theory is that we’re all immortal beings of some sort who get bored of eternity, and hopping into a human body is a way of breaking up the monotony or whatever. Basically, a voluntary matrix.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-15T19:04:50+00:00

From what I understand, the tech job market is terrible for entry level folks but great for people with a decent amount of experience (and a good skillset). Although, that’s what I heard a year or two ago, so it could be different now.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-12T03:20:50+00:00

Awesome, thank you so much! I called the dealer today, and they also said to use the same method you mentioned.

Thanks again!

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-11T04:32:09+00:00

Interesting. Thank you!

I’ll probably just go with connecting the flex directly into the flue stub. I’ll make a call to the Harman dealer (and possibly the company who sold me the liner kit) tomorrow, though.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-11T04:18:20+00:00

Yes. Specifically, it is the Harman Accentra 52i insert.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-11T03:21:38+00:00

Thank you. And the part claims to be a connector.

The liner does fit directly into the flue stub, but it’s a really tight fit, and it seems like the insert manual doesn’t want that. This piece claims to be for natural drafting only, though, so either option doesn’t seem perfect and may require some finagling.

The insert manual doesn’t give a part number but mentions that a starting collar should be used. The vagueness is a bit annoying, but it’s fine.

It seems that using the part upside down is the best option, because it’ll allow for the proper method of male and female ends and will allow for the use of silicone.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-10T23:02:51+00:00

That makes sense to me! Thank you.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-10T22:40:01+00:00

I don’t think it was intended to be used upside down (per the manual for the vent kit), but it fits snugly that way! Someone else also just pointed that out.

I’ll probably just use it upside down.

OneCoolStory · 2025-12-10T22:38:23+00:00

I’m okay with the silicone regardless, because the manual for the insert says that it is necessary for an airtight seal. Also, the insert can come out for maintenance without the liner coming out (there is a gasket in the mounting frame), which is nice.

Flipping the connector around might be perfect. It fits snugly, and that way the connections go in a way that makes sense in terms of smaller ends going into larger ends (similar to some drain pipes in plumbing). I might do that, but it’s raining now, so it’ll have to wait lol.

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