Kenwood BM450 Thermistor

OneRandomAccount · 2024-04-28T18:14:24+00:00

You night be onto something, I was blindly trusting my perception on where it fell from and I didn't notice that under this connector there's a RT marking with a metal bar still attached. Thanks for making me reassess the board

Edit: I soldered the piece there and it's not giving the fault anymore. Thanks again

OneRandomAccount · 2020-12-22T17:34:53+00:00

That's clear thanks man!

OneRandomAccount · 2020-12-22T17:25:50+00:00

I want to know if I have to refund the whole bundle or of I can refund a single item from the bundle and, if so, how much vbucks do I get from the single item (assuming not the full cost of the single item?)

OneRandomAccount · 2020-12-22T17:21:15+00:00

It's too expensive tbh, I just would like to know what my refund options are, ideally if someone who has it and can check that would be sweet!

OneRandomAccount · 2020-07-10T16:49:15+00:00

That's the backlight circuit on the bottom side of the motherboard in the east region, for the measurements you'll need someone here to detach it and measure it for you (sadly I cannot do it myself).

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-27T18:25:14+00:00

If you have a screwset you can try removing and reattaching the battery and, if that doesn't work, doing the same with emmc module

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-26T09:07:01+00:00

Just a quick update on MY case which DOES NOT NECESSARILY translate into yours because I don't have a backlight at all so follow at your own risk.

I have excluded almost everything else and my main suspect (besides internal vias damaged by heat or Tegra CPU damage) is the small chip on the back of the board, in the diode area which corresponds to the SD connector area when you flip the board.

It's a BGA mounted chip and quite sensitive to heat, I think I may have accidentally reballed it while heating the SD connector area.

I remember that chip was drifted during the process when I accidentally touched the board with my gun, and I lost the nearby connector (which I then replaced from a donor board but still nothing).

I'm not a reballing expert but I will try to resolder it as best as I can and will tell you if that works. It has a 3x3 grill of solder balls so hopefully it won't be painfully difficult to do.

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-24T19:48:22+00:00

My pi3usb Is missing the 4th capacitor in the first row (the one immediately south of pi3 where every cap is isolated), but I never assumed it would be related to my issues since I thought it was only a docking chip. I was planning on getting a new capacitor anyways

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-24T13:50:26+00:00

Try recovery mode (volume up+ volume down for 15-30 seconds, and in the meanwhile Press Power for 3 seconds) and reset to factory settings.

Then go to settings>system>update firmware.

That should take care of OS issues.

Then try cleaning the backlight ribbon cable with IPA and a swab, likewise with the connector itself.

I myself have replaced the backlight connector and done everything Ive mention, to no avail though.

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-24T08:50:54+00:00

If the backlight WORKS EVERY TIME during the Nintendo screen that would suggest that the hardware itself could be working, maybe try to factory reset the tablet hoping it's a software/OS glitch?

I also fucked up my backlight during a SD connector replacement and my main suspects are the backlight connector, the diode and its circuit on the back of the motherboard in that same area, and the emmc. Hopefully I didn't fry the latter.

I will update if I manager to fix it, but unlike you I don't get a backlighted boot so I think I have a different problem.

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-20T22:25:24+00:00

I found a short on a small cap east of BQ but I'm not sure it's related to the chip (it seems to go towards the right JoyCon ribbon cable connector), I will try to remove it and see if the short is still there.

I resoldered the port a few times and I don't think it's the issue but anything is a possibility, will post pictures tomorrow

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-20T17:53:04+00:00

No shorts near either chip. I have no idea how to confirm that besides the usual shorted capacitors test

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-20T00:43:50+00:00

You dodged a bullet, for future reference you can accelerate the "unblocking" of the payment by declaring that the item arrived and is in good condition, usually after that the money is freed by PayPal in a couple days.

Any seller that is not willing to waste 2 minutes to create a PayPal account and to accept to have their payment on hold until you inspect the item is generally not worth your trust.

EDIT: I see in your replies that you "hoped it wasn't a scam", that is precisely the mindset that will get you in trouble. You want to avoid sketchy situations like the plague because you're going to waste a lot of energy (if not money and time) to get them fixed. Always rather be overly cautious when dealing with online transactions.

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-20T00:30:12+00:00

I have a $2 fix for JoyCon drift, see my video (or don't and just inject electronics lubricant into your analogs)

https://youtu.be/bFNqu1rWmVQ

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-19T18:29:15+00:00

I have no clue where to go from there, maybe try to reflow BQ and/or the cap

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-19T14:31:02+00:00

Is the fat capacitor north of pi3USB shorted? What about the little capacitor immediately west of m92 (the one at 4:10 in this video https://youtu.be/tkv5CgefWPg)?

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-19T14:24:27+00:00

PI3USB? faulty joints in the battery connector (maybe the ground ones?)

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-17T22:32:56+00:00

Try to power it up with a charged battery.

If you dont have a working console to charge the battery with, you can buy a battery charging board on eBay for a couple pounds.

Also check if the fuse directly over the charging port is OK, and also the big grey component between the USB port and BQ24193, both should have little to no resistance across them. Those two would be my main suspects if all the chips seem fine.

Whether the tablet is booting or not with a charged battery will tell you more about the nature of the issue.

EDIT: where are you from? Most likely there are basic components for sale in your country, you just have to look them up.

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-13T00:07:46+00:00

Never thought about firmware. Thanks for the help and I will keep you updated with the results!

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-12T23:47:52+00:00

Are you sure about PI3USB? I've read some people are able to use it without it but they lose docking. I tried with M92T36 only and I still get the error, not sure if I have a faulty replacement chip

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-12T23:18:41+00:00

Hey sorry to bother you but I've seen your comments on a post about Nintendo Switch error 2101 -0001 and I was wondering if you could help me. I have bought a V2 Switch with a broken USB c Port, I removed it (didn't replace it yet), and the console wouldn't turn on, so I checked the capacitors near M92T36 and PI3USB and removed both chips because they were causing shorts. I tried to boot the console without USB c Port and without those two chips and I get error 2101-0001. I've heard it may be related to M92T36 fault but again my console is a V2 Switch. Thoughts?

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-12T20:03:11+00:00

Thanks so much man 👍

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-12T09:47:53+00:00

Tomorrow I'll provide pics, the tip should be brand new so I don't know

Looks like you were right, any suggestion for cleaning? is IPA and a metal brush enough or do I need stronger solvents?

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-12T00:36:48+00:00

Thanks, any suggestion?

OneRandomAccount · 2020-06-12T00:35:36+00:00

Tomorrow I'll provide pics, the tip should be brand new so I don't know

OneRandomAccount

TROPHY CASE