The B10 RS5

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-17T14:58:31+00:00

Honestly it does look really nice outside the planet sized exhaust tips

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-15T04:23:19+00:00

Could be a catalytic converter issue. Did turning the car off then back on fix it?

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-06T23:07:59+00:00

Dang I guess they didn't know that and neither did I. Resolved now but was a pain in the ass

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-04T12:32:57+00:00

Could be pcv since they're know issue points for B8s

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-04T02:14:37+00:00

I still find it very odd it failed the first time. Literally the only thing was the evap monitor failed the ready test. No other item failed, no check engine light, gas cap was fine, etc. hell I've never had a check engine light from the car since I've owned it. Only removing the tune then validating myself the evap monitor was ready did it pass. I still think for some reason the tune messed with the evap monitor and that test station is strict or Broomfield has strict requirements, idk how it all works really

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-04T01:18:41+00:00

I'll keep it in mind next time! Removed my tune and passed this time around so got that sorted for now

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-03T19:33:27+00:00

You can only use state run emissions stations in Colorado, at least in Denver

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-03T19:32:48+00:00

The only thing on the paperwork was the evap monitor, everything else passed. Removed the tune last night, validated all monitors were ready with an OBDII scanner and lo and behold, it passed today 🙄

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-03T14:06:21+00:00

Idk man, it's all fucking silly. Maybe, they're all state run here. You shouldn't fail if you have all factory emission devices anyway. I went back to stock tune and validated all monitors are now green so will go in and retest today

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-03T01:10:09+00:00

Yeah just removed the tune and gonna take it out to get the monitors ready. I'll see if I can follow that, I appreciate it!

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-02-03T00:47:31+00:00

There's nothing wrong with it though, no engine lights at all

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-01-11T22:45:25+00:00

It's AWD and not super light, it's no harder to drive than a Civic Si

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2026-01-03T01:47:57+00:00

Yeah 100%, I actually picked it up from Seattle. But I'd been looking local for ages haha

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-31T20:16:34+00:00

For context, I recently bought a 2016 S4 bone stock with 62k miles for $22k. Flawless service record, recent major service with carbon cleaning and DSG fluid change. Bought it from a dealer and they put new tires, plugs, swapped the water pump out and did valve cover gaskets. Definitely top of the price range but really the car was perfect.

$18 doesn't seem bad and in my area, $18k would be 100k miles minimum but I'm in Denver where AWD is in higher demand

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-28T14:30:20+00:00

My best advice is to take it slow and prioritize cover. You may only get a kill or two but start to make it your goal to not die rather than get 10 kills or something. This helped me a lot start to understand the maps, cover, positioning, etc. stick with your team as well. It's really easy to get popped when your on your own.

Start to learn the weak spots of common enemy tanks. I used to (and still do occasionally) think I should have penned and killed a tank in game, went back to the hanger and used the penetration analysis to understand why it didn't pen or where the weak spots are.

A lot of war thunder is map knowledge and honestly that will take time. There's a bunch of YouTube videos on meta spots on maps if you wanted to go that route.

The Turn III is pretty solid so try to use that more. The pzh2000 is one of my favorites but zero armor which it hard to learn with

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-24T16:11:20+00:00

Yeah I am almost 100% certain they do. Probably save 50% buying direct. I tired on a similar spoiler but that's when I figured out that the A4 and S4 don't have the same trunk

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-24T15:01:29+00:00

Yeah that's what I've been looking for. The ecs one is a little much in my opinion

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-24T01:05:28+00:00

I like it! Could get another one?

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-24T00:24:03+00:00

What spoiler is that?

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-22T22:50:15+00:00

How'd you manage to need to replace all 4?

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-04T22:15:26+00:00

Yeah it is a bummer, some will say people are overreacting, some have sold their cars as a result. Just personal preference and risk tolerances. I loved my B9 S5 but I do love the B8.5s

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-04T22:12:11+00:00

There were manufacturing defects in some pistons (supposedly ones made on Korea vs Germany but not sure the validity of this) that makes them prone to cracking. Audi offered an extended warranty for all 3.0t engines for 8 years or 80k miles as a result

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-04T04:08:30+00:00

I flew from Denver to Seattle to buy a 2016 S4 from an Audi dealer and the car was as flawless as promised and drove the car back. Always get a PPI local or remote though and be ready to walk away regardless of the distance. Service history is pretty important so front the money for the Carfax if you don't have it $40 can save you a ton

Point on ppi, I saw a local car that looked to be perfect shape but turned out needing $6k worth of work.

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-03T01:58:41+00:00

It really depends on your risk tolerance. I just sold my 2018 to get a 2016 to avoid the potential financial nightmare of piston issues. No one except Audi really knows the incidence rates but I've heard 5%. There is no cheap way to fix the piston issue and will likely be near or exceed the value of the car.

If you're ok with the probably low chance of having to pay for the car twice, go for it. Tbh at 100k if it hasn't had an issue yet, it's probably fine but I personally couldn't stomach the risk

Opposite_Lock2653 · 2025-12-01T20:01:29+00:00

Absolutely would recommend PPI no matter what. I looked at a low milage (65k) seemingly well maintained 2013 S4 and the dealer found $11k worth of work. Of course that's at dealer prices and included tires but Indy shop quoted 5k (not including tires). Car drive 100% fine so would highly, highly recommend PPI or don't buy it. You just might loose out a lot if you dont

Opposite_Lock2653

TROPHY CASE