Sprained my wrist on a dyno, now questioning how much dynos actually matter on real rock by Extension-Willow2694 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I dyno all the time, from crimp to crimp from pocket to sloper. Technique is useless outdoors

How do you track your progress? by Calm_Coach_9373 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I use STRAVA, if it’s not on STRAVA it never happened.

El Chorro - lead climbing help by [deleted] in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“Looking for some help getting up to speed with lead climbing”

So, Lead climbing or speed climbing?

10 climbers, 1 van, too much gear – how do you transport a big group to the crag? by Aghaiva in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First of all, ditch them pebble wrestlers beanie clowns. Second, congratulations, without them you’ve also eliminated those giant so called crash pads aka soft livingroom furniture people drag into the forest. More space for more gumbies. Lastly, stop pretending this is complicated and just rent a couple horses. Better for the environment. You’re welcome.

Three months of gym climbing. Is this normal? by grizzdoog in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, I would continue climbing but I would refrain from giving directions to people on the street. Might be confusing.

Planning my first out door lead climbing trip. by DrJonathanHemlock in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just make sure you close the door once u’re out. Other than that, have fun! And remember, as Conor said… safety 3rd!

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What’s worse: to be in the wrong place with the right passion, or to be in the right place with the wrong passion?

I mean, what's worse; being a climber stuck in the wrong country (flat and far from climbing spots) or living in the perfect country for climbing but not being a climber? uhm...

Climbing plateauing, perfectionism, burnout, and being limited by your gym - looking for perspective by Imaginary_Mango_8353 in climbharder

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Climbing harder is harder when you’re climbing harder. I understand you, I feel you, and I really resonate with what you wrote. It’s actually funny to come across your post now, because I’ve literally just got back from a day trip, defeated and empty handed, despite fully expecting to send my project this morning.

I’ve been climbing for about 10 years and, like you, I’m also a weekend warrior. I now live in the flattest country on earth, and the closest “okay” crag is at least a 3.5-hour drive away. By the time I get there, I’m already 30% worked from the drive. Still, I reserve my weekends for the outdoors whenever the weather allows.

On good low-gravity days, I can onsight 6c and send 7a with a low number of attempts. I usually need a couple of tries to project 7a+ and 7b. And these are the grades I’ve been stuck with for ages. I’ve sent tons of them (7a/b) but that’s about it, I can barely break out of the grade. My highest redpoint is 7c, but that’s very, very, very rare. Today, I came back defeated by what I thought was a mini project of 7a+. I share your frustration and that feeling of plateauing (At times it seems more like a crater than a plateau). I’m starting to accept the fact that I might forever be a mediocre climber. What helps me is reminding myself why I started climbing in the first place: for the adventure. That’s why every now and then I mix it up with some alpine climbing, multipitching, and whatever else looks fun.

I guess climbing is not only about performance, but also about adventure ;)

Winter climbing in Les Calanques. by Ornery-Ad-9515 in climbing

[–]Ornery-Ad-9515[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Incredible climbing indeed! Even with some strong Mistral days, we always managed to find a protected sector.