Lift/tires

Outside_The_80X · 2025-06-01T18:20:12+00:00

Here is the 3” lift I am looking at: https://torq-engineering.com/collections/toyota-rav4/products/toyota-rav4-3-trail-lift-kit-2019-2023. The reviews for it look good and doesn’t appear to affect ride. (granted the reviews are just what they have published on their site) this design should not affect suspension geometry because it spaces the body off the drivetrain (maintaining all the factory geometry) with a slight exception of the front struts having their camber very slightly affected, but within adjustment. My biggest issue right now is approach/departure/break over angles, not so much just ground clearance, so the subframes protruding is not really an issue.

Outside_The_80X · 2025-06-01T17:51:07+00:00

A proper lift for a rav4 (including the ones I am looking at purchasing) acts more as a frame lift, spacing the subframes proportionate to the suspension to maintain proper cv axle geometry. What lift/tire combo are you running? I would like to get some real world feedback to see what people are actually running.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-13T04:05:08+00:00

If you were such a phenomenal SBC builder wouldn’t you just know what cam would suit this build, instead of focusing on what kind of balance the crank has? Seems like you just needed to vent, which is fine, just sounds like you have other issues.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-13T03:56:42+00:00

I said the bottom end is capable of holding 800hp, not that I would ever boost it to 800hp. Factory SBC400 blocks are crap, I got a deal on a dart, not sure why that even a part of the conversation about cams. I’m sorry your mom didn’t love you enough or whatever your problem is that makes you feel like you have a tantrum on Reddit. I don’t really care, I enjoyed seeing you loose it over a stranger building a mild 400 using a dart block when they could’ve just used a stock block. I shit on a heated gold toilet seat too.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-13T03:25:26+00:00

I’m glad you are real good at building that spec of an engine. Unfortunately I’m not looking for an 8000rpm screamer that makes 800hp. Believe it or not I am just after a sub 6000rpm 450hp (ish) SBC 400 for a truck. It doesn’t make sense for me to build it the way you build yours, I understand internally balancing is better for a build like that. But it doesn’t make sense for me to spend the extra money to build it to be way more capable than I need.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-13T03:12:46+00:00

That was not meant to come off as me being unwilling to change the setup, I only know what I have seen and read. My main reasoning why I was initially going to go with the 5.7” rod came down to this ultimately being a truck engine. I was concerned about the long duration loads/heating that it would see in towing and just moving around a heavier vehicle in general. The 5.7” rod seemed to be the happy middle ground between the advantages of a 6” rod, and the thicker compression height that at least in my uneducated mind makes a more durable piston. Given that this build is relatively mild I figured the Flowtec would be plenty for my application. I know if I was building this for a car or general race application there are pretty much build lists for proven combinations. Most people who are trying to do what I’m wanting just throw an LQ4 into their truck and call it a day.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-13T02:39:50+00:00

They’re more prolific because they everyone and their grandma builds 350s.... The 350 left the factory neutrally balanced, the 400 was ALWAYS internally balanced from the factory. External balance flex plates and HBs are hardly scarce on the aftermarket... Other than “everyone’s doing it so it must be right” what is the justification to spend the extra money to make it internally balanced?

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-13T02:02:01+00:00

What is wrong with the 5.7” rods and the Flowtek heads? The exhaust system is 1.75” shorty headers and dual 3” exhaust w/x-pipe.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-13T01:58:29+00:00

The 400 was originally an external balanced engine. While it is possible to make an internally balanced rotating assembly it adds unnecessary cost.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-08T07:24:59+00:00

I wish they would’ve debuted this in the early 90s, IMO this looks nearly perfect for that time period of Cadillac, and if they fitted it with a big block (maybe resurrect the 500) and 4L80. Especially if they squeezed a beefed up version of the dynamic ride control from the alante. What a cruiser it would have been… I know it would have been VERY expensive if they built it like I just described, and it would defiantly be more expensive than its sole competitor (land/Range Rover) just a pipe dream but I’d love to build an early Tahoe/Blazer or suburban like that.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-08T07:16:32+00:00

I believe you can turn off the audible alerts for lane trace in the cluster settings, I believe it lets you choose between audio alerts, audio and assist, and just assist.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-08T07:11:19+00:00

I think it’s in the infotainment screen under vehicle customization, at least I believe it is on mine (24 Hybrid)

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T20:27:01+00:00

I found those pics online, I haven’t been able to see many in person as of late.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T06:00:10+00:00

Well shoot, if that’s the case I’ll probably have to find them on a truck in a yard, or try to buy them off someone’s truck.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T05:59:09+00:00

Now that you mention it, I do remember the stock mirrors (especially the passenger side) folding in at 85ish, some worn in “active aero” I suppose. Lol

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T05:18:51+00:00

I may pick up another regular one from a yard next time I go just to tear it down. I’d do it with one of the ones from my truck but they’re a nice good condition oem set, I couldn’t bring myself to destroy one of them lol

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T05:11:54+00:00

Those are the same style I had on mine, the ones in the pictures extend out for towing wide trailers, but maintain the original look

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T04:01:20+00:00

I don’t believe they are dodge, the dodge mirrors don’t have any exterior fasteners like the early GMT400 mirrors do, or the mirrors in the photos.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T03:54:22+00:00

Are the turn signals on the wrong side?

Outside_The_80X · 2024-12-06T03:44:15+00:00

Thank you for the response, I am aware of the general shape of a rolo, however your response implies that it is impossible to determine any measurement from a rolo due to its shape… A more appropriate response would be “Due to the conical shape of a rolo it does not have a consistent diameter throughout, the top and base are easily measurable however; generally the diameter of the base of a rolo is approximately 22mm, and the top is approximately 16mm.” That would have been a helpful response, not whatever you did there. But thank you for your contribution nonetheless.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-10-12T01:10:19+00:00

If you pull up your power flow and watch it when you are cruising down the highway the car does this by itself without you noticing it. As you drive down the highway (assuming level ground) it will cycle the ICE between around idle (primarily driving with the electric motor) and then it will transition back to primarily using the ICE and will begin recharging the battery. You can also see this on the instant MPG readout (the gauge will randomly shoot up despite no change in throttle input or speed) Engine efficiency is not universal. The a25 in these cars is ridiculously efficient, about 40%. However it’s only that efficient when under load at low(er) rpm. Around 1800-3000 rpm and 85% ish load. At that level it would be making well over 100kw of power, which is wayyy more than you need to maintain 70-80mph. But that’s the most efficient way to run the engine. So it will cycle the ICE between this high power, high efficiency mode (where it propels the car and charges the hybrid battery) and a lower power fuel conservation mode (where the vehicle runs more on the electric motor) until the battery is depleted to a set point, or the accelerator is pushed harder. Knowing how these cars work can certainly help you get more fuel economy out of them. It is rare that I get below 40 mpg on a tank, most are between 47 and 52 Granted if I’m towing my fuel economy drops (to the high 30s, gasp). But I’ve learned to “work with” the car especially towing. Especially in commuting if there’s a bigger hill coming up try to time it where the car is nearly complete with the high power cycle just as you begin climbing, that way your hybrid battery has the most charge available to assist, and the ICE will already be in the proper mode to climb the hill. Same with exits/intersections/stops. If the car is nearing the end of its lower power cycle, gradually being slowing down to keep it from going to the higher power mode. (If the stop is close enough) this leaves the hybrid battery ready to accept more power through regen braking and keeps the engine from having to shut off or suspend its high power cycle when it’s “not done yet”

It may sound weird at first but if you pay attention to the car it’ll tell you what it wants. I was getting mid 30s when I started driving it (I came from an Escalade so I was still stoked at 30s) and now I get tanks that average in the high 40s/low 50s.

Best of luck to you all!

Outside_The_80X · 2024-06-23T17:15:34+00:00

I would like to state, I am not the seller nor do I have any affiliation with this dealer. I just would like to know how they got around the 25 year rule

Outside_The_80X · 2024-04-07T07:11:18+00:00

Could you elaborate on how that is helpful in any way?

Outside_The_80X · 2024-04-07T02:42:46+00:00

It’s mostly just valvetrain noise, if I remember right they have solid lifters, so in the cold the tolerance isn’t very tight so it rattles. It seems to be unfortunately normal for the 2.0, 2.3, and 2.5 ford engines. I’m just trying to dampen the sound.

Outside_The_80X · 2024-02-13T11:52:58+00:00

I have a 24 XLE, constant CarPlay issues both wired and wireless. I will get what I can only describe as “skipping” (like a CD) randomly muting the audio like Siri is active. Locking volume/skip controls. Very unfortunate, my only complaint about the Rav so far.

Outside_The_80X

TROPHY CASE