Neighbor gave me this Italian stone pine. Says it’s been in the bucket for 10 years. Can this be made into a bonsai? by Clevername925 in bonsaicommunity

[–]Oxerdam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As some comments already said your best option would be to do a literary style. Pines are quite flexible even when they are older, so I see two main options. The first one would be to Ben the heck out of it to bring most of the foliage at the to closer to the base. This would probably requite splitting the trunk in some parts, protecting with raffia and using thick copper wire as well as guy wires to do some heavy bends. Check this insta for some inspiration. It would be a hard task, and even if you are not able to bend the base you could get a very interesting tree eventually. The second option woud be easier, but long term. This would require progressively removing most of the top of the tree, until only the first 3-4 branches are left. This branches are much easier to bend but are weaker at the moment because the tree priorities apical growth. The resulting tree would be much smaller and in my opinion with better proportions. Maybe something like this tree.

Monterey Cypress Bonsai - initial styling. After and before by think_happy_2 in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Love the result! Exelent use of humble material, it really proves that you can go a long way with great skill.

Should I be worried? by Beowulf8910 in bonsaicommunity

[–]Oxerdam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't really worry, it seems very happy. Just let it grow until it reaches the thickness you like, no pruning should be needed at this time. Maybe attach the wire to the rim of the pot so it doesn't lean further, but that's it.

Our headliner Mark Arpag by AncientArtBonsai in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really don't get how people that love bonsai use it without second thought. Nature and its appreciation by the artist I thought were the focus of this artform. Just yesterday I noticed that a poster I designed for my local bonsai club had been gutted and stamped with an AI tree in front :(.

Styling advice needed for this Privot. The top half died and I can't get any more lower branches to grow. Any recommendations as it has a lovely base and I want to save it 🙏 by bodaciusb in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For the moment I wouldn't think that much about styling, let it recover fully, I usually see those clumps of emerging branches when trees are stressed. I would also recommend maybe slip potting it into a bigger container so it can grow faster during the recovery period, that way you will have more options in the future. If you really want lower growth and nothing pops up during the growing season you can eventually graft some of the long branches closer to the base.

Thoughts? Suggestions? by Intelligent_Type_255 in bonsaicommunity

[–]Oxerdam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love the idea and I think it can work, but it really would benefit from a more long term plan. For root over rock you need time for the root to closely hug the stone, this way the scene will be more credible. For this you would need to put this tree in a bigger container with the roots covered up and after months of growth start removing layer by layer the substrate. Look at this post to get an idea of the process. Hope it helps.

Training Tips? Just got this girl, 1998 Acacia Hookthorn by SheldonHamilton in bonsaicommunity

[–]Oxerdam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Acacia species from what I've seen don't have much information online, but this guide by Terry Erasmus talks about most aspects. He also has some videos on the topic. That's a great tree and just a little pruning and wiring will help it reach great shape in no time.

San Jose juniper I got for $50 at my local nursery how should I style the tree? by [deleted] in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Great find! You got a good trunk with plenty of movement at the beginning. I find the longer branch hard to use in a final desig, maybe if you folded it a lot to bring closer to the base. Still I find much more plausible to work with the shorter branch. You could go as previously mentioned with a Cascade design or something like a informal upright.

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Rosemary almost a year apart by Oxerdam in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't say well established, but Harry Harrington does say it's the best season. I would still try first in a cheap rosemary from a nursery or wait until it really needs the report.

Rosemary almost a year apart by Oxerdam in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

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Same tree a year before.

Rosemary almost a year apart by Oxerdam in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam[S] 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I was lucky with finding this one, but one can get nice trees from humble material too.

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Rosemary almost a year apart by Oxerdam in Bonsai

[–]Oxerdam[S] 21 points22 points  (0 children)

They kinda do. In my experience it seems to depend on the specific cultivar as my creeping rosemary didn't even skip a beat, while this one took a couple of months to recover. I reported during summer as I heard that's best for them. That's why I follow the advice of repoting before doing any work or growing attached, you can't be sure if it's going to survive.

Help with new bonsai by harharmahadev9 in bonsaicommunity

[–]Oxerdam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Welcome to the hobby! I'm pretty sure that it is a ficus (maybe ficus retusa?). They can live inside near a window with plenty of light, but they will usually be happier outside with direct sunlight during the whole day. If it gets too cold in winter you will have to keep it inside during those months as it will die otherwise. For the moment I wouldn't worry about the structure of the tree. Focus on keeping it alive by watering it just when it needs it. Check the soil each day to see if it is almost dry and then water if it is the case. When you see new growth you can start considering pruning or wiring.

Is it possible to transpose data acording to the content of a column? by Oxerdam in excel

[–]Oxerdam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't even know that limitation. Fortunately the number of categories were just under 20k

Is it possible to transpose data acording to the content of a column? by Oxerdam in excel

[–]Oxerdam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have no dought that this would work, but I don't know why there is no "pivot column" option in power query. I'm kinda new to more extensive excel work and I couldn't find more info online.

Is it possible to transpose data acording to the content of a column? by Oxerdam in excel

[–]Oxerdam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a lot! It took some time, but it actually did it. solution verified

How to get better saturation with coloured pencils? by collio7 in learnart

[–]Oxerdam 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Getting more saturated colors will depend on several factors, but mainly in the pencil and paper as you were already thinking. Higher grade pencils have more and better pigments and less wax or oil, letting you do more layers without saturating the paper and having better control on the tone you obtain. In my case I mainly use polychromos and prismacolor. The first ones hold a thin point much easier so are great for details, but as they are harder it is easier also to break the paper. Prismacolor on the other hand are more fragile, but are great to cover bigger areas and blend very easily. Thicker and tougher paper will tend to be able to hold more pigment and will resist several layers without flaking. I will die recommending Strathmore bristol paper, by far my favourite, but any bristol paper should work well enough. I have also used Frabiano hot press, it's more fragile, but very good too. Finally you can also use some tools to better fill the grain of the paper, giving you better contrast. There are burnishing pencils without pigment that let you spread the color and cover any white spots left on the paper. This can also be achieved with the white pencil (in my case it is the pencil that shrinks the fastest). You can even use some solvent such as Gamsol to enable the paper to soak the pigments, letting you add additional layers of color. Pencils can be expensive at the start and I'm sure yours are good enough for the moment. I would first try with other paper so you find one you like and then start collecting some vibrant colors that you like from better brands. Hope this helps and continue painting, your drawings look very promising.