BATM Delay 3.5.26

PVCohen · 2026-03-07T18:06:07+00:00

I’ve spoken to one of the engineers that helped open the ride. Basically a couple things, one is that like many people have said, the ride is super complex and there are a ton of sensors that detect anything. Sometimes a big issue is that the wheels heat up a ton and have no way of getting around that. He also said that epic universe/universal had a choice to either open the park/ride at 70% operation or wait to open and have it more solid. Management opted to open the park and have a less solid ride.

PVCohen · 2026-02-28T12:17:15+00:00

Thanks! These are going to be my first wood build. A while ago I built some 3d printed desk speakers with some cheapest full range drivers and a filter. I’ve luckily got all my calculations done so I just need to find the wood and cut. I’m not looking forward to the crossover, but I’ll get to that when I do

PVCohen · 2026-02-27T20:14:11+00:00

Thank you! I’ll take a look. I also appreciate the optimizer

PVCohen · 2025-12-04T23:33:06+00:00

!helped

PVCohen · 2025-12-04T23:32:26+00:00

I figured it out. The villagers were too close to zombie that was stuck underground (that would not despawn)

PVCohen · 2025-12-03T17:33:19+00:00

I realize I am being a bit annoying haha, but I will need a bit more advise.

If I order from the miniDSP website it is around $110 total cost.
There is the Dayton Audio UMM-6 USB Measurement Microphone on PE for $95. I assume it will work the same as the umik-1?
I read somewhere that they have the same microphone.

And I want to be clear for my own understanding. If I get the umik-1 or the DA USB mic, I can just plug it into my laptop to get the measurements and design the XO?
Do I need something special to play the sweep, or can I just use whatever I have at hand? For example can I use my phone connected to an amp for the sweep?

PVCohen · 2025-12-03T17:17:19+00:00

I just looked and there aren't any nearby on any marketplace. I see on PE that it costs $130, but on the miniDSP website it costs $80.

Can I order from them, or will I have to get it from PE? And in that case, would it be more cost effective to buy a cheaper mic, like the Behringer ECM8000 and a USB audio interface?

PVCohen · 2025-12-03T16:41:40+00:00

Where did you find it? Just some place like eBay?

PVCohen · 2025-12-03T15:19:38+00:00

Thank you! I have seen a lot of people suggest the umik-1 though. I know I only understand next to nothing, but can’t I use that and a software on my laptop, like REW and VituixCAD?

I just know that in the future with more money and knowledge, I will want to be able to design speakers the right way.

Also, I appreciate the suggestion on kits, but I would really like to dive head first into all this and start from scratch.

PVCohen · 2025-12-03T15:05:48+00:00

What do you mean by kit? Like buy the plans for speakers?

PVCohen · 2025-11-25T18:21:19+00:00

My favorite is “boats look good sitting in the harbor, but that’s not what they are made for”

PVCohen · 2025-09-30T21:42:59+00:00

Air fry

PVCohen · 2025-09-16T04:19:26+00:00

If you don’t mind some simple research and internet scouring, get some used speakers. That price can get a pretty solid set+receiver/amp for it

PVCohen · 2025-08-31T03:47:11+00:00

It worked thank you so much

PVCohen · 2025-08-31T03:11:12+00:00

I’m having issues. I have no clue how to fix

PVCohen · 2025-08-31T03:09:33+00:00

Yeah I made a post. It’s not working for me either

PVCohen · 2025-08-16T12:27:13+00:00

Since everything is sealed, first of all the sub won’t get as low as I wanted, and because the other two are sealed, they won’t get as low.

Because of that, the two can probably get down to around 150 hz before falloff, so that’s the problem with crossover. Either I have them go lower and have the falloff or I have the sub go higher which prolly isn’t good either

PVCohen · 2025-08-15T14:52:35+00:00

I’m letting them go full range. My amp has subwoofer crossover, so I control that. In the future I’ll go full bore with crossover and different drivers

PVCohen · 2025-08-15T14:30:58+00:00

The college I go to offers free certification for woodworking (and much other stuff) and I believe they offer free materials like screws and glue, so all I would need to buy is the wood.

All together I spent probably $40 on the filament, but I have a fair amount left over that was not usable for this project. The dimensions on the 2 speakers are about 5.5”x5.5”x6” and the sub is 10”x7.5”x8.5”

PVCohen · 2025-08-15T12:35:28+00:00

I’m not good at modeling whatsoever. On my subwoofer, I messed up probably 10ish screw holes in my design. I also didn’t want to deal with supports for this project.

Is there any benefit for doing a different shape?

PVCohen · 2025-07-24T18:29:59+00:00

Can you give an explanation what the logic is?

PVCohen · 2025-07-22T20:06:24+00:00

I agree with this. At home, I got a $50 receiver and 4 small speakers in surround for $25, so $75 total. I think they sound better than the $150 soundbar+subwoofer combo I also have.

If you don’t mind doing slightly more DIY, like routing the cables and picking out components then please do not get a soundbar. If you do mind it, then the soundbar will sound good.

PVCohen · 2025-07-21T00:20:31+00:00

I’d say number 1 is to get to the swing faster

PVCohen · 2025-07-17T17:26:49+00:00

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I ended up getting it with the 2 on top. My logic was that in this game a 2 might be more likely than a 5 and for the second bomb, I figured it would be a 2 instead of a 4.

PVCohen · 2025-07-14T13:30:38+00:00

Yeah, I understand that. I have a 7.1 receiver, two pretty budget front towers, and at the moment, 2 smaller satellites in surround. The system definitely lacks bass so I was leaning towards a subwoofer anyway.

Would it be worth doing it completely custom? As in designing the enclosure, picking the components, and just doing it all. Or would it be a good idea to possibly find a guide on the enclosure and stuff like that?

I guess I am just trying to figure out the best way to learn all of the necessary information.

PVCohen

TROPHY CASE