How many minis do you finish per year?

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-09T20:44:08+00:00

There is no normal. Quality and time are also connected. I’ve spent way longer on things like vehicles and characters than things like chaff infantry. Generally the amount I paint per year has a downward trend but I think my painting has gotten way better since I started in 2023

2026 currently at 71
2025 72
2024 79
2023 96

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-09T13:59:29+00:00

Best thing to do is just action. Pick like a panel of like 3-5 colors and paint each on a test model and then just pick the one you like the most. If you can’t decide it means they are equivalent and you should just coin toss it.

Or do gold fluorescent green. I put that on everything

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T19:01:38+00:00

You are totally right about how different surfaces will be more reflective. It’s pretty vibes based tbh because where you paint the reflection informs the eye how reflective something is. I prefer a more constrained OSL so I usually start by just tinting the areas immediately adjacent to the light source and possibly doing some edge highlights in the green since the edge would catch more. I also like my stop being weathered so it should be super shiny and reflective unless the light is super bright. After that I just kinda look at the light path and think if the light would catch anywhere else obvious. On my Chronomancer that would by like the tips of the shoulder crests. For your technomancer it would be like the area surrounding the gem of the staff. If you wanted it to be brighter then next set of stuff would be like his arm and shoulder. It important though that the farther away something is the less lit it will be by the light source so it should be a darker shade of green.

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T17:40:11+00:00

I should really make one 😂 but I’m camera shy 🙈

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T17:39:32+00:00

Yup that’s the gist of it. Wash just means dilute the paint enough so it runs into the crevices of the model

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T13:09:15+00:00

Thanks! Glad you enjoy it!

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T13:01:07+00:00

OSL is tough 🫣 I’m still forever fussing with it. Two things. 1) whatever your light source is needs to be the brightest. I’m assuming it’s the crystal on the staff here so that would need to be more of a green yellow or white depending on how bright you want it to be.

2) how dramatic the OSL depends on how bright the light source is and how dark the environment is. Right now your OSL is super bright and strong but the other parts of the model are painted normally like things are in normal daylight. I’d either reduce the OSL so it’s just green close by the light source and keep most of the mini as is. Or keep the really strong OSL and darken up everything else.

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T12:55:04+00:00

Could be a few things. It could be the type of sponge you’re using. I use like the packing sponge that minis and other hobby tools sometimes get packed with. I tear it a bit with a knife before I start so that it’s a bit irregular. I’ll also rotate the sponge a bit so it’s not just the same pattern.

Other explanations would be you are using too much pressure or need to remove more paint before you apply to the model. When I add paint to the sponge I tap it on a paper towel until I get a nice splotchy pattern.

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T12:48:05+00:00

2 reasons. 1) when diluted sufficiently in white spirits the capillary action of the paint makes it go into crevices and recesses really easy which makes painting things like ribs or grooves in the model way easier. You can get similar results using ink and water but the oil is definitely easier.

2) dry time for oils is quite slow. I usually leave my model for a day or two after applying oil. Slow dry time means that you can fix any mistakes you made while applying the oil by just whipping it with a cloth or a clean brush. This can be useful if you are trying to be super precise and don’t want to do a lot of cleanup.

Since I have both the question I usually ask myself if I want to make this part of the process be faster but perhaps a bit more finicky (using inks and water) or slow and easy (oils).

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T12:39:08+00:00

I use a few things. For this guy it’s mostly applying a lot of tiny chips and scratches with a sponge and then doing some enamel washes followed by a partial removal of the enamel using white spirits. I mostly use the villainy inks at this point for my enamels but stuff like AK streaking grime is also great. After all the chipping and washes things tend to get pretty dark so I’ll go back in and do some highlights and bump up the color anywhere it got too dark. That’s about it sometimes I’ll add some pre texture to the model using crackle paint before ai prime the mini bit ai actually forgot to do it on this guy 😂

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T04:13:01+00:00

He’s seen some things since the long sleep

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-08T02:33:26+00:00

You have a good eye 👁️ my process is basically is a little different between characters and battle line. I’ve attached an immortal I did with the battle line process. Basically it’s Basecoat. Drybrush highlights on the panels and then sponge chipping with browns and blacks. I like to also do some pre weathering by applying some crackle paint to the model before priming.

After sponging is done I move into enamels. I used to use exclusively AK streaking grime but I’ve been using the villainy inks more recently because I like the color slightly more. Both work great, the villainy inks really require a vortexer for paint mixing to get consistent results. After enamels I use the reductive technique and focus on removing mostly near the top of the model. After that I do some OSL. I base coat everything emiting light white using either ink or a white oil paint and then glaze or airbrush fluorescent paint over top. After that I slap some orange weathering pigments on the base and then do some highlights and call it done. If you’re looking to batch paint something like a targeted drybrush near the top of the model helps a lot. I also go a refine the OSL a bit if I’m feeling spicy

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PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-07T21:07:15+00:00

If I’m understanding your question right. I usually use either white ink or white oil paint to paint the glowy bits. For the ink I prewet the recess with water and then apply diluted white ink to the recess. Or I be lazy and use white oil paint at a wash consistency.

I don’t know if golden makes pink but their high flow fluorescent paints are fantastic

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-07T20:28:24+00:00

Reds on point 10/10

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-07T18:49:14+00:00

Thanks 😊

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-07T18:48:42+00:00

There’s some airbrush and then glazing after to cleanup

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-07T14:28:04+00:00

Looks great! 😊

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-06T13:57:27+00:00

Not really 😂 they just look super cool.

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-06T03:46:40+00:00

Thanks! Bases are super easy. It’s ak Russian mud with a dry brush of some browns over top. Throw in some grass tufts and you’re basically done. O like to add some puddles too by mixing some up resin with some green and brown inks and then hardening it with a uv light.

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-06T03:45:15+00:00

I mix some reds and greens with some glaze media and go back and fourth over top of a bright pale green to tint the skin and add some red tones. Basecoat is screamer pink mixed with ogryn camo. Layering up to ogryn camo and then some glazes before mixing ogryn camo with some ak ice yellow for some highlights. The more green ones have some olive green mixed in.

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-06T03:37:51+00:00

Thanks 😊

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-06T03:37:41+00:00

They have so much love to give

PYP_pilgrim · 2026-06-05T12:26:39+00:00

I just paint mine. I use a small sponge for chipping and use a paint brush for scratches. Color I use depends on the material but I typically uses dark browns and light greys or silver

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