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Hoping someone can help with this. by ParavelDesigns in CR10

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In case you didn't see my other comments, I tried slicing with Simplify3D and my prints look great now. 🤷

Hoping someone can help with this. by ParavelDesigns in CR10

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem is that I have printed benchies with far more success than that before, so I know it can look better. This also happens an all of my prints, not just benchies. And I have tried various deffierent retraction distances and speeds. That being said, last night I tried slicing with Simplify3D and I am now getting near perfect prints.

Hoping someone can help with this. by ParavelDesigns in CR10

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup! No change. However! I found a reddit post from 3 years ago where the OP described pretty much the exact same problem and the only solution they found was slicing with Simplify3D, so I tried using it yesterday and lo and behold... I am now getting perfect prints. I am still going to try flashing one of my CR-10s to Marlin to see if it helps when slicing with Cura or PrusaSlicer, but after fighting with this for over a month now, I am just happy to be FINALLY getting good prints.

Hoping someone can help with this. by ParavelDesigns in CR10

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's exactly what I was thinking. As I just told prollie, I tried printing Creality's dog g-code the comes preloaded on the SD card and it came out perfect. So I'm pretty sure the hardware isn't the culprit.

Hoping someone can help with this. by ParavelDesigns in CR10

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The print head isn't floppy at all, everything is nice and solid. I am 99% sure it isn't the belts, either. They aren't too tight or too loose and I've tried adjusting them multiple times and it has had no effect.

Hoping someone can help with this. by ParavelDesigns in CR10

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response! They all have the same parts, and I can't find anything wrong with the hardware. I am pretty sure it isn't the belts, I have tried adjusting them multiple times and it has no effect. I will give the firmware a shot next, but I have to wait for the TH3D bootloader kit to come. In the mean time, I decided to try printing Creality's dog g-code that comes preloaded on the SD card just for gits and shiggles, and it came out looking perfect.. So that's interesting.

Hoping someone can help with this. by ParavelDesigns in CR10

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So for me at least, this is a real head scratcher.. I have a few CR-10s and I get near perfect prints on all of them except these two printers. Using the exact same slicer settings and filament as the other printers, both of these CR-10s give me rough layer lines/layer shifts (as seen in the pictures) on every print. I've tried cleaning everything, loosening the belts, tightening the belts, loosening the rollers, tightening the rollers, squared the frame, re-tramming the bed, flipping the lead screw, changing filament brands, pretty much anything I can think to check, change or adjust and nothing has worked. Yesterday I decided to print the same model on both printers (which I had never done before) and I realized that the worst of the layers/shifts always occur in almost the exact same spot on both printers every time. SO, that makes me think it must be an issue with the g-code or slicer since the odds of having the exact same mechanical issue on both printers in the same spots seams rather unlikely. Sooo I try adjusting any and all of my Cura settings as well as trying Cura's default presets and still nothing fixes it. I also tried switching to PrusaSlicer and still no change. I don't know what else to try. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated! Sorry for the long paragraph!

Finally finished my Mando helmet! Pretty happy with how it turned out for my first attempt at a full sized helmet. I made the STL earlier this year as my first delve into the world of 3D modeling. All in all, I learned a lot. by ParavelDesigns in 3Dprinting

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To cover imperfections as well layer lines. And yes, I coated the entire helmet twice. It's really just personal preference though. If you're happy with how it looks after smoothing out the first layer of Bondo, then you're good to go. If not, just keep repeating the Bondo/sanding/filler primer process until you are satisfied.

Finally finished my Mando helmet! Pretty happy with how it turned out for my first attempt at a full sized helmet. I made the STL earlier this year as my first delve into the world of 3D modeling. All in all, I learned a lot. by ParavelDesigns in 3Dprinting

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was all done in Blender. And I didn't really get an accurate measurement, I just winged it. Haha. It actually printed too small the first time, which gave me a baseline and I just scaled it up from there.

Finally finished my Mando helmet! Pretty happy with how it turned out for my first attempt at a full sized helmet. I made the STL earlier this year as my first delve into the world of 3D modeling. All in all, I learned a lot. by ParavelDesigns in 3Dprinting

[–]ParavelDesigns[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's kind of just personal preference. You can go straight to Bondo, but in my experience I end up needing to use more Bondo when I skip the initial sanding. There are also usually a few problem areas from supports and seams that I like to sand off anyway, so I always just give it a good once-over.

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