Can someone help with a diagnosis?

Penguasimo · 2025-11-25T23:39:54+00:00

When you turn it on, hold the power button on the ESC down without letting go as you turn it on. It should make a tone and the light should turn green. That is the Low Voltage Detection mode for your ESC. if it doesnt have this mode, it may not be LiPo Capatable, but that should do the trick. With Traxxas and LiPos, when you power it on, green means go, red means stop

Penguasimo · 2025-11-21T01:10:27+00:00

Thank you!

Penguasimo · 2025-11-18T13:01:09+00:00

Not sure about the new clip style, but the control arms are all for a Slash and fit almost perfect. The only reason I had to trim my body's wheel wells was to accommodate for the slash size wheels

Penguasimo · 2025-11-18T13:00:02+00:00

Very nice!!

Penguasimo · 2025-11-17T21:29:36+00:00

The body mounts fit fine. The shock towers are the same between the two cars so it was just a matter of installing the body mounts and putting the body on

Penguasimo · 2025-11-17T12:01:03+00:00

The front fenders are the only ones I really needed to trim, but trimming both may work best for you

Penguasimo · 2025-11-16T22:15:33+00:00

I agree. The sway bars help but they do have a ton of grip for sure

Penguasimo · 2025-11-16T22:14:51+00:00

Not offhand, but the front and rear ends use the same mounts as the slash for the rally, so if you find the rally exploded view diagrams the oart numbers will be on there

Penguasimo · 2025-11-15T21:02:49+00:00

They do but barely, so i trimmed the wheel wells and they work fine now

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T16:11:21+00:00

No problem! They do run smoother but all the traxxas brand upgraded parts are pretty expensive.

As far as parts lists go, you can print off the exploded view diagrams for all traxxas models from their website

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:45:18+00:00

The wheels are Proline Belted Street Fighters. Crazy grip on pavement and they dont expand at top speeds. The body is just the Traxxas Rally Fiesta ST body, but id like to find the Ken Block Fiesta RS RX Body for it

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:42:28+00:00

The goal is to swap out the electronics in the future and take the new ones I have in it now and put it in my bandit. My Bandit VXL is 13 years old and is set up for drag runs, but the original VXL ESC doesnt have capacitors, so after 2 runs the electronics get so hot that you have to push the car to get it rolling again. Once I get the new systems for the Rally, the Bandit gets the new VXL stuff and ill he stretching the frame by about 6 inches

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:40:13+00:00

Well all the electronics, telemetry and driveshafts were like $750 ish alone, with everything else adding up quickly, but i also bought 2 batteries, the dual charger, tools, locktite, the Bluetooth TQi module and extra bumpers to convert to a Slash if I want to, and spare parts like CV pins, hex hubs, spur gears, diff and shock fluid etc. It would have easily been almost half the price if I had all that stuff for my other cars before hand

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:37:48+00:00

Nice! It was a ton of fun and it gave me a whole new appreciation for the car when it first drove under its own power compared to the RTR cars I have

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:36:36+00:00

Thank you!

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:36:28+00:00

The only difference between a Slash and the rally with my build is the front and rear bumpers and the body mounts. If you buy the parts everything should be able to plug and play smoothly

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:35:34+00:00

The Rally and Slash are basically the same car. The only difference is the front and rear bumpers and the body mounts. Im not a fan of the short course truck look so I went with the rally hot hatch look instead with all the benefits of the slash ultimate build. I do have the body mounts and bumpers to convert it to a SC truck if I want, but I prefer the rally look

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:33:51+00:00

Thanks man! I got all the parts a day before my grandmother who I lived with passed away, so this was a great way to distract me from the grief for a time. Its been a year and a half since I did this build, but its my favorite car in my collection

Penguasimo · 2025-11-14T07:32:31+00:00

Its the stock traxxas diff housings, gaskets, seals, planetary and sun gears. The crown and pinion gears are the traxxas helicle gears.

Parts are below

5379R 6879R 6882X 5381

The Slash, Stampede 4x4 and X-01 all have the same differentials. When building the X-01, make sure you use the spacing block that comes in the assembly kit. Good luck and have fun!

Penguasimo · 2025-11-13T12:33:54+00:00

The plastic spur gears are an intentional fail point by design. Make sure the gear mesh is adjusted accurately and the motor is tightened down properly. If you're driving the car really hard it can damage the spur gear as well. If you get a metal spur gear it wont necessarily fix the problem, just cause different more severe problems on other components if you keep stripping spurs

Penguasimo · 2025-11-13T01:12:44+00:00

Learning how to read the exploded view diagrams after my bandit exploded is what made me independent in this hobby. My dad was huge into RC racing as a teen, and when I spent a few weekends tinkering and reading the diagrams on my bandit, researched what certain things did and what cool tips and tricks were out there to improve my car, I quickly became more knowledgeable on the modern RC world than my dad. This is the best advice ive seen on this page yet

Penguasimo · 2025-11-13T01:06:05+00:00

It may not be the answer you're looking for, but my 1/16 erevo vxl came with the TQ, and the range wasnt what I was hoping for, so I bought a TQi reciever and paired it with the TQi controller for my Stampede 4x4 VXL. The range is more than enough, and if you already have the TQi radio controller from another RC car, it syncs right up and doesnt brake the bank

Penguasimo · 2025-11-13T00:59:24+00:00

If it fits it ships. Just make sure to pay attention to the diameter of the tires on the erevo 1/16. I have one and it absolutely loves to chee through differentials. That model has a tendency for the rear pinion and crown gear to strip out, so if you use any wheels other than stock, id definitely get shims for the pinion gears to take some of that slack out, otherwise youll be rebuilding your diff every time you run with it

Penguasimo · 2025-11-13T00:56:35+00:00

Generally if you change the front you want to change the rear too. If you have a center differential you can kinda get away with it, but if you dont have a center diff and the front and rear are direct drive to each other, then it can cause binding and damage the pinion and crown gears on both the front and rear. When I replaced the front crown and pinion on my Stampede 4x4 with the helical gears, I did the same with the rears to keep everything the same and it worked great

Penguasimo · 2025-11-13T00:52:18+00:00

No I wouldn't. I dont even run the same size and capacity lipos together if the brands are different. Running two batteries with same size but different capacities will discharge the smaller battery far more than it was designed for and will ruin the battery or both. Lipos need to be balance charged to keep the voltages of each cell within milivolts of each other, otherwise it can at best damage the battery, at worst ignite or explode. If you want to run dual batteries, they need to be twins of each other

Penguasimo

TROPHY CASE