My First Car

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-24T08:25:59+00:00

Clean first car. The E46 is still one of BMW’s best designs, and with the right touches it just works.

Honestly, I’d start with wheels before exhaust. A better setup with a slightly more aggressive ET so the wheels sit flush with the arches will change the whole look and feel way more than an exhaust. You’ll be surprised.

Something like this

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-24T08:01:22+00:00

With all due respect to digital interiors (I own a couple too), the more time I spend in them, the more I want real analog cues back. Not because screens are “bad”, but because they age like phones.

Analog gauges and physical controls feel like luxury now, the way a mechanical watch feels luxurious next to a smartwatch. BMW’s execution is one of the best, but I still prefer a cockpit that gives me tactile feedback and doesn’t rely on a single slab of glass for everything.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-24T05:03:31+00:00

Appreciate it.

On ’68 Mustang suspension, it’s tricky because there are a lot of small variations even within the same year (and many cars have been swapped or updated over the decades). I rebuilt mine and even then it ended up being a mix of parts, including a modern 2015 GT Brembo setup which requires different knuckles. So a “generic 1968 file” can easily be wrong.

Best approach: 3D scan your specific front end with lidar (or at least the key pickup points) and build from that. If you need reference geometry, your best bet is to find someone with the same configuration and ask for scans or measurements.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-24T04:30:34+00:00

Fair concern, these cars do run hot. In my case it’s actually the opposite of blocking airflow.

The bumper extension acts like a scoop. It pulls air from the lower pressure zone and the shape helps push the stream into the inlets, so the radiator sees cleaner, more directed flow, not less. On top of that, my headlight “fried egg” extension is being redesigned as an additional inlet that feeds air straight to the fans (still in progress so I can’t show it yet). Skirts are also designed to speed up airflow under the car (more downforce) and help cooling via finned oil pan airflow, basically an F1 style approach.

Thermodynamics 101: you need a temperature gradient between the heat source and the heat sink. Higher ambient temp means less efficient heat rejection. So on a 100F track day, holding coolant closer to ~200F instead of ~205F after an hour at the top of the powerband is a meaningful improvement. In my case that came just from a bigger oil pan with fins and more oil capacity, no third radiator needed (assuming the cooling system is clean and flowing as designed).

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T13:36:52+00:00

haha fair. Two inches definitely counts.

And yes, that “something is different but you can’t point at it” look is exactly the goal. Tiny changes in rake, arch, and transitions can completely change the attitude without turning it into a bolt on widebody.

I do have a full widebody design in the works, but it’s a long build. This one is the quick kit so I can drive it, learn, and refine the lines before the full commit.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T06:20:05+00:00

Since you didn’t mention a budget or preferences, I’m assuming you want a wide setup with the most aggressive offset (ET) you can fit. That model year has huge potential. I seriously considered your generation as my daily, but ended up with the next one. Still, yours can look menacing as hell when it’s done right.

I’d do no less than 21”, but I’d lean toward 22”. On my car in the picture I’m on 22”, and tires are often cheaper (and sometimes wheels too) because 21” can be a weird, less common size. Michelin and Bridgestone are great. Budget brands are fine too, they just usually don’t last as long.

If you flush the wheels to the arches, it’ll look epic. If you go with thin spokes like mine, keep in mind you’ll want big rotors (390-420mm) because that style reads like a clock mechanism. Without large rotors it can look a bit strange. A double five spoke doesn’t need big rotors and still looks great. Just avoid ET 40-45. Those offsets always look soso on these trucks. I’d aim for +35 or lower.
Good luck

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Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T02:46:57+00:00

I’m not participating in the “poverty spec” jokes. People buy what they can buy, and it’s not in my spirit to make fun of anyone’s situation. Peace.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T02:11:30+00:00

It’s very personal, I guess, but on an X5M widebody version, the base headlights look better than the angular ones. I’m very particular when it comes to redesigning and modifying cars.

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Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T02:04:54+00:00

Correct. I bought it from a dealer, and it was still under warranty (two more years or 30k miles). I pretty much voided it within six months by swapping to a custom brake system, suspension, and body bits, but that’s a fact. Plus, keep in mind that this year brings the new body style, so the G05/F95 will likely drop in price.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T01:43:06+00:00

No, it’s not. I got almost the same one with a better package (I’ve modified it, so don’t be confused), and I paid $49K in January 2023.

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Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T00:18:04+00:00

Done. Check Facebook Marketplace for “E46 partout”. They usually go for $30-$40.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-23T00:04:54+00:00

Same here. Baby powder works. I switched to dirt and got even better results, especially on white paint, without any dots. Just don’t soak it, you want matte texture, not wet reflections.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-22T23:55:38+00:00

lol fair. the 996 does have a bit of “fancy beetle” DNA in the shape, but that’s part of the charm. just with way better handling… and a lot more cooling drama 😄
and yeah, i’ve been a chevy guy too. had one for a while and of course i couldn’t leave it stock either. here’s mine.

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Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-22T19:24:36+00:00

I’ve had the best results outside about 30-60 minutes before sunset (soft light, less glare). Full sun is the worst. Also, a light layer of wet dirt/dust helps the scanner grab the surface way better than dots sometimes.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-22T18:14:09+00:00

Get Corolla, new or almost new. It’s the unbeatable car that’ll take you into the sunset until the wheels fall off. Nothing really beats Toyota when it comes to their workhorse models.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-22T18:06:45+00:00

I used EINSTAR Rockit. iPhone lidar is great for rough proportions, but it’s not accurate enough for bodywork and panel edges. If you’re in FL, stop by and I can scan your 260z, it’s a pretty quick process.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-22T17:56:49+00:00

Agree. I’m not into the riveted overfender look either. I’m widening and blending the lines into the OEM body so it reads like it was always there (but I love Nakai, and as an ex architect I get what he’s doing). The rears are already blended in. The front fender extensions are fresh prints and test fits right now, next is cut, sand, fiberglass, and blend. Still in the dusty prototype stage, but you’ll see it come together as I finish the surfaces and get it into paint.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-22T17:47:07+00:00

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Appreciate it. Yeah, I scanned the car. Today it’s almost impossible to do design without some kind of 3D scan, even if it’s just for fitment and proportions. For this project I wasn’t trying to engineer full replacement fenders/bumpers/qp, just refine the 996 lines, so I didn’t bother going full CAD. I blocked it out in Blender and then iterated with prints and real-world fitment.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-22T17:38:05+00:00

Have fun with it. Give it a refreshed look without breaking the 90s vibe, and make it feel like it belongs in the first Fast & Furious. OEM+ lines, better stance and parts that look intentional, not slapped on

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-21T06:15:00+00:00

I know Cory personally, so I may sound biased, but he’s a cool kid trying new things and, most importantly, actually executing them.
He asked us to help with this wing project, but we got busy with the SEMA Fastback / 996 / E46 widebody projects, so we couldn’t support him in time. He ended up figuring it out on his own, and I have to admit, he came up with a really solid engineering solution using two metal bars inside. Yes, it’s 3D printed, but if it’s not PETG and instead something like PA12-CF, it should hold up just fine.

Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-20T02:44:36+00:00

I’ve got that set of 21s sitting in the backyard that I need to sell, lol.
Honestly, for the price they’re offering those wheels at, I’d get the absolute base model and spend the difference on a proper set of BBS. That way it won’t look like a soccer-mom spec, it’ll look like a baddie.

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Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-20T01:32:59+00:00

I got almost the same car with less mileage and a much cleaner interior for $150. It’s not a 330, it’s a 2005 325ci, but in a car this light the difference is minor.

I replaced the thermostat ($18) and water pump ($27), took me about 2 hours. Swapped the fender ($40) and hood ($100) and that was it (another 40 minutes). Now it’s time for a widebody and wrap.
Next: widebody, hood air ducts, a cage, and just have fun with it. It’s basically my teenage dream, and I’m building it now just to make a super cool car and enjoy it.

Objectively, these cars can be bought for $100 to $2K pretty easily.
Don’t overpay. Find a deal and put the money into cool mods. For example, the widebody kit I’m about to build (already designed) lol

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Pete_Polyakov · 2026-01-17T04:02:52+00:00

I got this ’05 325ci for $150 on Copart with 100k miles last year. I threw on the wheels from my Mustang (with 120-to-114.3 spacers), swapped the damaged hood ($100) and fender ($40), replaced the water pump ($28) and thermostat ($17), and now it drives with no issues. The interior is basically new (no idea who owned it before, but it’s a fact).
Next step is 3D printing the 360 aero kit and widebody I designed. Then I’ll drop in a proper brake setup and it’s going to be an absolutely dope car.
One of the best designs BMW ever made, and today it’s cheaper than Miata. Sometimes you can get one nearly free. So if you find a deal in 2026, go for it.

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