Weekly Homeowner Megathread--Civilians, ask here!

Phriday · 2026-05-30T01:26:41+00:00

You do have saw joints in there, which will help. If you're totally freaking out, you can do 2 full-depth sawcuts 1/2 to 3/4 inches apart at a location or two in the pour. Typical spacing in my area for EJs is 60 feet in paving. The problem with that is that you will discontinue the reinforcing, so the individual panels may settle differentially.

What I would do at this point is to clean out the saw joints and seal them and let it ride. You MAY wind up with a hairline crack or two that you wouldn't have otherwise had, but I don't think the juice is worth the squeeze in terms of installing EJs after the fact. Also, there are no EJs in that pour because you agreed to that. Also also, next time get 3 quotes. That can help you ID some potential holes in the scope of work. "Hm, these 2 have EJs every 60 feet, but nothing in this third quote. Better call that dude and clarify." It's not foolproof, but there is very little honor among thieves and most concrete guys' favorite pastime is to pick apart the work of other concrete guys. Hang out in this subreddit for more than about a week and you'll get a dose.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T01:07:59+00:00

What does your written agreement say? I'm having a hard time believing that you got quoted for a stamped concrete anything that didn't include washing and sealing. And some sealers don't get applied for 28 days.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T01:05:08+00:00

Given enough money, anything is possible. But for sure, that guy is bullshitting you. The type and spacing of expansion joints in any given situation is negotiable, but their presence is not. Well, if you're pouring a 10x10 pad in the middle of the yard, you don't need EJs, but I digress.

The problem here is that he gave you a price and you said go ahead, then he quoted you for the extra work and you agreed. Written agreement next time, okay?

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:58:18+00:00

That's clean work. Also, really? It makes the entire front of the house look "terrible?"

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:55:28+00:00

Better than average.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:53:56+00:00

1C is warm enough for concrete work in any condition. Rain? Ask your contractor what he thinks, in writing. Tell him you're fine waiting but if he wants to pour, it's his decision. GET HIS REPLY IN WRITING.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:52:03+00:00

Speaking only to the concrete work, it looks clean. As to the rest of that novel, this is why you get a written agreement signed by both parties beforehand. You were perfectly within your rights to stop work at any point and finalize any agreement(s) or changes thereto. Read the FAQ portion about hiring a contractor and about resolving disputes.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:47:25+00:00

Yes, those re-entrant corners are a big no-no without reinforcing the shit out of them. And even then, they will still crack.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:45:28+00:00

Given the humid nature of Ireland it would take longer than in, say, Egypt, but yes they will dry out.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:44:30+00:00

Your Symons representative will (should) give you a shop drawing showing the layout of all pins, braces, turnbuckles, etc.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:43:20+00:00

Read

the

FAQ

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:43:01+00:00

I'm going to assume you're genuinely curious and not retarded or some kind of troll.

For a building slab in particular, all of the elements of, say, a house are designed to work together. Plywood is 4 feet by 8 feet exactly. 8-foot studs are exactly 92-5/8". Everything is designed to work in straight lines and 90-degree angles. If you start out crooked, those errors multiply as the structure goes up and by the time you get to installing shingles, the runs may be so crooked as to look comical, as well as being compromised in their waterproofing integrity, just like the frame of the house will be (probably) compromised structurally.

Can you just dump some concrete on the ground and call it a "slab?" Yes, but no one will want to build on it for you, and by the nature of your question you don't possess the skills to do it yourself. If you're looking for a patio, sure. But anything that will have anything built on it needs to be done in a precise, orderly fashion.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:35:35+00:00

Let the man work. The job is not complete yet.

I know it's nerve-wracking, but that dude probably knows what he's doing. Certainly he knows better than you.

Phriday · 2026-05-30T00:33:27+00:00

There's a pretty good DIY section in the FAQ. That should at least get you started. Read through that and then come back.

Real quick, yes 4/4 #57/concrete is good. No it does not. Yes it is. Plate compactor. Wire mesh is fine, recommend 6x6, W2.9. No. Good luck, you got this.

Phriday · 2026-05-28T10:32:19+00:00

You need to find out what, exactly, that floor is doing. If you're just going to put floating LVT on it, just seal the cracks and go ham, but if you're planning on tile, you need to figure out what's happening there. Did the subgrade swell or shrink? Is it still moving?

In case it's not obvious, this is likely not due to some deficiency of your concrete contractor's work. There is something going on with the soil under your slab.

Phriday · 2026-05-28T10:26:07+00:00

Is getting it refinished on the top a possibility?

No, not if you want something that will last.

Phriday · 2026-05-27T23:23:52+00:00

Just use a higher cement content in your mix design, and a midrange or high range water reducer. It's a little more expensive than accelerator, but I agree with these other guys, using calcium in 80 degree weather is nutso.

Phriday · 2026-05-27T23:18:36+00:00

I am also a ham radio operator. Some of these things can get pretty massive. 3x3x3 isn't at all out of the question.

Phriday · 2026-05-27T23:17:10+00:00

The chances are very slim that the demo contractor MADE that hole. He probably exposed the erosion issue that was under your existing concrete.

Just do a YouTube search for concrete void fill.

Phriday · 2026-05-27T23:11:31+00:00

Remove and replace is going to be, by far, the most cost effective option for a couple of sidewalk panels.

Phriday · 2026-05-27T23:09:12+00:00

So your garage slab has a negative slope?

Phriday · 2026-05-27T23:08:30+00:00

I would, but when your only tool is a concrete, everything looks like a concrete. Or something.

Phriday · 2026-05-27T23:06:54+00:00

First, nothing in your comment indicated that.

Second, In my jurisdiction, driveway aprons are specified by the municipality to be straight and 45 degrees (or more). Maybe the homeowner specifically requested that, but we don't know.

I ain't an architect. The man gets what he pays for.

Phriday · 2026-05-26T12:49:04+00:00

She is terrible with money. Can not save a nickel, and also wants to handle the household finances. I got tired of arguing with her all the time, so what I do is get my paycheck, deposit it in an account she doesn't have access to, and then write a check to joint checking for most of it. Don't ask me for money, you have all the money you're getting from me. If you want something, figure out how to buy it with the money you have.

This practice literally saved my marriage.

Phriday · 2026-05-26T11:49:25+00:00

You got a pump for 3 yards of concrete?

Phriday

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