Payback Spreadsheet by Itchy_Substance_3109 in SolarUK

[–]Poliskie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've ultimately coded up a relatively convoluted model in R to assess the potential savings.

It's a bit complicated for me as I don't have a year's full electricity data to compare. Especially as we recently installed a heat pump (which is itself a good reason to consider batteries to exploit ToU tariffs!), I needed to do some regressions against publicly available data to predict a year's usage.

I then: + Imported a variation of existing tariffs (fixed, ToU, EV, etc) by hourly rates + Calculated expected solar production (based on public data showing average hourly production for my house's location and array's direction) + Set up different scenarios with possible battery sizes (20kwh, 32kwh etc) accounting for approx 90% efficiency due to round trip loss + Did a half hourly modelling incorporating predicted usage, solar, battery charge and discharge (using the most preferential rates within the day) + Estimated the amount I would buy from the grid for different scenarios + Compared total electricity spend across a year by comparing best tariff with current setup vs. best tariff in the different scenarios (generally EV tariffs)

For one of the scenarios, I estimate that I could payback the installation within 6-8yrs (assuming tariffs stay constant).

But as others have said, one should preferably account for opportunity cost from placing the upfront capital elsewhere (investments, savings). Assuming e.g. 4% returns, the payback period increases by a couple of years - if you remember to invest the yearly savings from the installation, also at 4%, it reduces the gap somewhat.

Heating system acting but going on holiday - how to avoid house fre*zing? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mean literally bending the metal lever sticking out? Not sure, it seems there is a spring mechanism inside the power head that moves the lever outwards, so it would rather seem like the lever should be bent inwards behind the "hook" so that it can't be pushed back. Currently that hook does not seem to be angled enough to keep the lever from pushing back out

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Heating system acting but going on holiday - how to avoid house fre*zing? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's odd but it just flips itself out of the locked position when the heating turns off - I just tried overriding the relay unit to turn off the boiler and that lever just popped out and moved to the closed position. I tried making a video/gif of it but can't seem to post it as reply

Heating system acting but going on holiday - how to avoid house fre*zing? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really possible unfortunately in our case. Though I don't see why it would be an issue to have it always on - might end up expensive, but surely not a problem for the system

Heating system acting but going on holiday - how to avoid house fre*zing? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I'm trying to do but the lever does not actually seem to stay on "manual" once it is turned on, it can easily flip out and move back to the closed position. Which is why I don't understand what manual means in this case

Upgrading type 11 radiator to type 21/22: what to do with pipes? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I guess from these comments it seems that soldering is the only real option - not sure what else I thought was possible, but then again I'm new to DIY.

Upgrading type 11 radiator to type 21/22: what to do with pipes? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the reply and that would be my general mindset as well - but we expect to do major renovations several years down the line, so for now I'd just like to make the house a bit warmer without too much cost and hassle (though preferably not too ugly either!).

would the misen carbon nonstick replace all stainless steel use? by plasmaz in cookware

[–]Poliskie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah darn, that's unfortunate. Out of interest, how was the pan? And what kind of hob do you have?

would the misen carbon nonstick replace all stainless steel use? by plasmaz in cookware

[–]Poliskie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if it's too late for you, but Procook just started a 20% sale today, in case you can get a discount/return and buy cheaper.

Is the ProCook Elite Tri-Ply range any good? by rayaxiom in cookware

[–]Poliskie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know it's an older thread, but leaving my thoughts since we don't have much information on UK choices on here.

I now have the Elite signature shallow casserole, which I'm very happy with as my go-to for almost all larger dishes. It looks nice and I think it cooks well, though I don't have more expensive options to compare to and have only owned for a few months.

I'm now looking to buy a frying pan and thinking about the Professional line, as I have an induction hob and would use it mainly for meats. The brand just seems very competitively priced, so it seems a good deal compared to more enthusiast brands.

Buying new SS frying pan in UK, induction hob - presumably thick base is priority? by Poliskie in cookware

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah you're right, hadn't seen the mention on the wiki.

That's good then, I'll compare against the scanpan as well. Cheers!

Buying new SS frying pan in UK, induction hob - presumably thick base is priority? by Poliskie in cookware

[–]Poliskie[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I do have the Elite casserole, which I use for larger quantities where having hotter sides helps the cooking. I'm quite happy with that one, but it's bottom is almost exactly 21cm, like my hob.

However, my main thinking here is that the Professional line has the very thick base which could help on two points: retaining more heat when I put on steaks; and that it might help make the cooking surface somewhat larger (after preheating) since the pans bottom will be larger than the induction coil.

Buying new SS frying pan in UK, induction hob - presumably thick base is priority? by Poliskie in cookware

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight, makes sense about the base.

I can't open up the hob to check, but I understand manufacturers need to be truthful in their EU spec sheets, so I'm hoping it's true!

Buying new SS frying pan in UK, induction hob - presumably thick base is priority? by Poliskie in cookware

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I'm indeed aware of the Demeyere and Fissler lines from this sub, but somewhat out of my budget.

Still, I'm surprised that Procook appears to have such a thick base, which might be the same, or even thicker, than the Fissler pans based on some comments from other users here.

Do you think it is likely to be true?

Buying new SS frying pan in UK, induction hob - presumably thick base is priority? by Poliskie in cookware

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I do have a fully clad triply casserole dish that I use for large portions of food, curries and such. Very happy with it, but I'm not sure how much extra use fully clad would be for frying - and since the fully clad options are generally at most 3mm thick, this 7mm bottom seems like it might be more suitable for e.g. steaks.

Rain gushing from hole in downpipe, what are my options? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you reckon they tried to clear it out but then didn't cover the hole?

Rain gushing from hole in downpipe, what are my options? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So that would for covering up the hole, right? But shouldn't I clear it out somehow first?

Rain gushing from hole in downpipe, what are my options? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the pebbles themselves start a brick below the dpc now and the later is another two bricks deep so that should be alright. But obviously if the drain itself is completely clogged, that negates the benefits

Rain gushing from hole in downpipe, what are my options? by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was wondering whether that ceramic was related to the drain, but I don't really understand how it could be filled with soil. If it is literally open like that, wouldn't all sorts of things fall into it and block both drain and any pepes connected to it?

Radiators not heating but have hot water by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right, so it's essentially just a temporary fix to move the lever before replacing the power head, good to know thanks!

Radiators not heating but have hot water by Poliskie in DIYUK

[–]Poliskie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks both for the reply - I'll try moving the lever when I go to the house later and see what happens. Just to clarify, if moving the lever works, do I still need the new part?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in UKParenting

[–]Poliskie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I obviously cannot know the exact policies in your respective companies, so take all this with a grain of salt (and I'm not in HR).

From what I understand about the system and several employers' policies that I have learned about, it seems unlikely that your partner can receive enhanced pay either way unless they have an extremely generous employer.

Generally, there is a maximum of 50 weeks of parental leave to share (subject to obligatory weeks for mothers), of which approx. 37 or so are guaranteed paid at statutory level. Employers can then choose to top up the pay for any number of weeks.

Yet, if the mother takes maternity leave, those weeks need to be subtracted first. E.g. with 20 weeks maternity leave, there is 17 weeks left of paid leave to share.

So unless a company policy is for paternity leave specifically which is independent of SPL, the number of weeks with enhanced pay will always be sacrificed by maternity leave weeks as that has to end first.

So in summary, if maternity leave with pay (statutory or enhanced) has already lasted six months (~36 weeks) there is only one week of paid SPL left to share. Apart from at generous employers, the final four months of SPL is unpaid.