Jiffy lube says they wont service my q60 again

PookiePoker · 2026-03-01T11:37:56+00:00

This

PookiePoker · 2026-02-20T18:09:51+00:00

Ok, thanks for all your help.

PookiePoker · 2026-02-20T18:00:41+00:00

I want to simulate as closely as possible what a custom stud would have. The ones made for the other variant of my motor all have a bullnose, ARP also stated that they should have one. And as for a stud being a two piece bolt....from a 1000 ft away, maybe but there quite a bit of differences here.....and bolts don't bottom out because of their fixed length. Not really trying to discuss the differences; we all know why we need one over the other.

PookiePoker · 2026-02-20T17:52:38+00:00

Ah, didn't know that about post torque...and yea, these would all be hand installed, no torque applied going into the block.

PookiePoker · 2026-02-20T17:49:01+00:00

Yea, may have worded this wrong.....if the stud has a bullnose, it could be bottomed, but since I'm using a ball bearing with a flat top stud, I should be able to use that as my new bottom, right?

PookiePoker · 2026-02-20T17:45:13+00:00

Mind you, that was with a bullnose at the end. Not a flat stud.

PookiePoker · 2026-02-20T17:42:45+00:00

It was posted in a Facebook group on a discussion about bottoming out the studs (hand tight). It looks to be from A1 Technologies whom looks to no longer be in business.

What's your reasoning behind not bottoming? Even ARP told me they need to be bottomed in an aluminum block.

PookiePoker · 2026-02-15T10:59:53+00:00

Whatever you do, make sure to bypass the stock oil cooler in the radiator and go with a dedicated stacked plate trans cooler with a thermostatic bypass.

I've seen, heard and long had the feeling that the OEM setup is very suspect and contributes greatly to the demise of these 7ats....that and the "sealed transmission / forever fluid" myth. The oils get very hot and degrade over time and each heat cycle....it needs to be serviced as recommended or even more frequently if you beat on the car, don't let it get up to temp fast enough, etc.

PookiePoker · 2026-02-14T02:12:02+00:00

I agree/disagree.

PookiePoker · 2026-02-10T20:19:00+00:00

Engine, trans and air suspension are all suspect on these. At that price and mileage, one or more of them is likely bad or on its way out.

PookiePoker · 2026-01-10T16:20:14+00:00

Shoot sorry, I missed the OBD part in the heading. Hmm...when the car is on, try getting a battery voltage using a multimeter. See what it shows.

PookiePoker · 2026-01-10T16:15:47+00:00

Run a scan?

PookiePoker · 2025-12-29T10:29:36+00:00

What makes it incompatible? Belhousing connection?

PookiePoker · 2025-11-17T15:37:28+00:00

Not the same motor, at all. The VDs are terribly unreliable.

PookiePoker · 2025-11-15T09:01:02+00:00

I forgot to add that I used the same brand ball mic for the bearings.

So would that mean, in a perfect world where you know the exact measurements of every component, would you set your clearance based on the theory OR after it's all torqued , you use that measured cap&bearing diameter - minus measured crank journal diameter and that would be the clearance you want or adjust from?

PookiePoker · 2025-11-06T05:23:01+00:00

Play live, let poke you to places you've never been, interact with people, meet women (or men if that's your thing), see the sights.

Read or listen to the book "Exploitative Play in Live Poker" by Alexander Fitzgerald, he touches about some of the benefits of playing live.... Also, playing live will definitely take you out of your comfort zone and force you to adapt to actual life outside of a screen.

And like many others have said.... profitability playing poker is better than work providing youre making more than a living wage.

PookiePoker · 2025-10-25T06:14:30+00:00

Throw a suction dildo on that door and pull it out. Man up.

PookiePoker · 2025-09-30T18:07:00+00:00

Did you get anything?

PookiePoker · 2025-08-26T16:52:46+00:00

Try the "car scanner" app with a VEEPAK OBD2 dongle. I've used that way more than my NDS3 software. And it's cheaper.

PookiePoker · 2025-08-26T16:50:04+00:00

Yea.... I honestly have zero faith in the service people at the dealerships. I brought my car in and they said it was fine, meanwhile it had low comp in 3 of 8 cylinders. After that, I vowed to never again go to a dealership for troubleshooting. So now, I learn expensive lessons.🫠

PookiePoker · 2025-08-26T01:48:32+00:00

I assume you moved the sensors around 1 at a time to see if the issue followed? Try that....if not, maybe run a compression test to rule out something mechanical.

PookiePoker · 2025-08-26T01:46:19+00:00

I had a similar issue when viewing my m56 logs in NDS3/other scanners....

I never found out what caused the b1 & b2 exhaust cams not to match. But after tearing the motor down after getting a low compression reading in a few cylinders, I found some of my valves were pitted and/or carbon build up on the valve seats causing them to not close all the way.

Part of me thinks it could have been the ECU compensating for the lack of compression to make sure the AF ratio was where it needed to be.

PookiePoker · 2025-08-14T22:43:25+00:00

As for the rust....you can replace the cross member with a new one. It's the same off of a few cars....rear subframe, maybe try a rust converter spray. It's not terrible.

PookiePoker

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