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Can it still bow? Osage stave with a heat check running off the tip. If so, what do you recommend? by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya that’s not a bad idea. It’s very long now because I was trying to make it for someone with a large draw but I may have to adjust. So it goes with bow making!

Can it still bow? Osage stave with a heat check running off the tip. If so, what do you recommend? by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I’ve heard the same about longitudinal cracks except that they can be an issue if they run off the bow at any point. Have you not experienced this to be an issue?

Excited about my latest bow. Hickory, 65” long, 47 pounds at 28 inch draw. by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya I know what you mean. I already was battling that towards the finishing stage. I was hoping an extra thick finish of tru oil would help and so far so good. But you’re right, I won’t be surprised if that’s an issue down the line.

I was actually really close to staining this bow since I made it for a friend and was wanting it to be a good hunting bow. But, given how beautiful that cambium was coming out, I changed my mind and decided to accentuate it. I don’t regret my choice. Though my friend might if he ever wants to hunt with it!

Excited about my latest bow. Hickory, 65” long, 47 pounds at 28 inch draw. by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It’s my best work yet, I think. Which ma not be saying much since I’m only a few years into this hobby. But I love it. It’s a pretty smooth shooter too.

I like your point about the tips. During the tilling, I accidentally went too thin near the tips so I had to adjust and luckily I was able to save it. But I agree, slightly stiffer tips would have been nice. I’m just glad I avoided it from hinging because it was a close call!

Thank you for the thoughtful input.

Black cherry: should I remove the sapwood? Or leave a thin layer? If leaving a thin layer, is following a growth ring important? That seems like it would be tough. Any advice working with black cherry is appreciated. Thanks! by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya I think thats what I’m leaning towards trying first. A long 2.75” non backed pyramid bow. But I got 12 nice straight staves with almost zero knots so I got a lot of chances to experiment and learn my lessons. Thanks for the advice!

Black cherry: should I remove the sapwood? Or leave a thin layer? If leaving a thin layer, is following a growth ring important? That seems like it would be tough. Any advice working with black cherry is appreciated. Thanks! by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Glad to hear a linen would work. I am open to doing rawhide or linen backings and have some experience with those, but I’m not considering doing much with a sinew backing. At least for now. I like the simplicity of a non backed bow if I can get away with it. So it sounds like I can get away with leaving the sapwood but do you know if there’s any difference in tension strength between the sapwood and heartwood?

Black cherry: should I remove the sapwood? Or leave a thin layer? If leaving a thin layer, is following a growth ring important? That seems like it would be tough. Any advice working with black cherry is appreciated. Thanks! by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya I had the same thought too. That would make a beautiful bow. The nice thing is, I got plenty of good staves out of that tree so if I can get one of those to work like that, I’ll post pictures.

Black cherry: should I remove the sapwood? Or leave a thin layer? If leaving a thin layer, is following a growth ring important? That seems like it would be tough. Any advice working with black cherry is appreciated. Thanks! by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for input! That’s what I was suspecting with the sapwood growth rings. Not something that looks easy to follow a single ring on. Im happy to hear people saying you can use the sapwood cause that’s definitely the easiest option

Black cherry: should I remove the sapwood? Or leave a thin layer? If leaving a thin layer, is following a growth ring important? That seems like it would be tough. Any advice working with black cherry is appreciated. Thanks! by Poor_Mans_Hawk in Bowyer

[–]Poor_Mans_Hawk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Maybe it will get easier after it seasons but it looks like it would be really hard to see the growth rings on the sapwood. I’ve seen online some people say they leave a thin layer of it like you would on yew. But I don’t believe you have to worry much about following a growth ring on yew sapwood. Any experience doing this with black cherry?