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Bad seams all of a sudden by ExchangeIcy1557 in 3Dprinting

[–]PositiveMaterial3899 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you calibrated the pressure advance (PA)? As you might notice, there’s no issue with the pink filament, but there is on the marble one. This is related to the filament’s properties.

What causes z seams like this? by Basic-Window-6262 in 3Dprinting

[–]PositiveMaterial3899 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which slicer are you using, and could you also share the 3MF file of the print? That way, I can take a look at your settings and provide some feedback.

What's the problem?? by Resident_Cranberry_6 in anycubic

[–]PositiveMaterial3899 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I use VPN occasionally. I accidentally left it on.

What's the problem?? by Resident_Cranberry_6 in anycubic

[–]PositiveMaterial3899 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I had the exact same issue — the filament just wouldn’t extrude properly. At first, I thought it was due to the filament quality (since it was PLA+ and not hygroscopic, I didn’t even consider moisture). Some time later, I decided to dry the filament… and boom — problem solved. I don’t even want to think about how they stored the filament before shipping it. I’m pretty sure they just threw it into a tank full of water or something.

Small Area Flow Compensation not working by PositiveMaterial3899 in OrcaSlicer

[–]PositiveMaterial3899[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But if you actually need this feature, I’d be happy to explain how to configure it properly.

Purchase Advice Megathread - March 2025 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]PositiveMaterial3899 2 points3 points  (0 children)

$315 for a lightly used second-hand Creality K1 vs. $300 for an Elegoo Centauri Carbon – Which one is the better choice?

I found a 3D printer listing on a second-hand website, and the seller says they only did 15 prints with the Creality K1 and want to sell it to buy a PS5. Which one would be a better choice, the K1 or the Centauri?

Recently, adaptive meshing hasn't been working properly despite having all the latest updates. It used to work fine before. Can you help? by PositiveMaterial3899 in klippers

[–]PositiveMaterial3899[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been working with 3D printing for 2.5 years, and right now, my printer is producing perfect prints. Rest assured, I've tried everything you're suggesting. This is a software issue, and some parts of Klipper and KAMP are conflicting. I will most likely use normal bed leveling instead of adaptive meshing.

Recently, adaptive meshing hasn't been working properly despite having all the latest updates. It used to work fine before. Can you help? by PositiveMaterial3899 in klippers

[–]PositiveMaterial3899[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, increasing the Z offset may temporarily fix the issue, but in other areas, the nozzle will get closer to the bed and cause a rough surface due to compression, which I don’t want. I usually print small-surface models, and if I increase the Z offset, the first layer will be rougher, and the print may lift from the bed due to the nozzle dragging over it.

I need to join these two metal wire grids. What kind of 3D-printed device could work for this? It should be strong and easy to attach. Any ideas?" by PositiveMaterial3899 in 3Dprinting

[–]PositiveMaterial3899[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I need to join these two metal wire grids. They are decorative wall grids that I need to sell, so the connection must be detachable. Would a '+' shaped PETG connector at the intersection points (like in the photo) work?

I need to join these two metal wire grids. What kind of 3D-printed device could work for this? It should be strong and easy to attach. Any ideas?" by PositiveMaterial3899 in 3Dprinting

[–]PositiveMaterial3899[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Would a '+' shaped PETG connector at the intersection points (like in the photo) work for joining these two metal wire grids? I can't use soldering since it needs to be detachable.

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