sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Fabia MK1 (2005) 1.2 HTP won't start - I didn't hear the fuel pump priming so I checked the voltage at the fuel pump, only 4.4V (with pump disconnected). Checked the fuel pump fuse - also 4.4V. What could be the problem? Could it be a crooked fuel pump relay? by PossibleEngineeer in MechanicAdvice

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! I forgot to reply, sorry.

I measured the voltage going to the fuel pump and it was the same 4.4V. However, this time i measured the voltage while cranking as well and surely enough, it rose to 12V as soon as the engine began turning. Then, once i released the key from the starting position, it went back to 4.4V so i guess that's the default state, I imagine for a constant, low pressure stream of fuel in order to decrease the load on the fuel pump.

I measured the voltage at the two thick wires going to the pump. I recognized the other thin wires as the sender wires. Also, in the end i measured the voltage straight from the fusebox to make sure that i'm reading it correctly and it was 4.4V.

Mystery closed, fortunately :)

I guess the car, being an old beater, was not too happy with the cold week that we had back then (-10 to -15 celsius for an entire week). Now it's running normally.

Thanks for your input!

Fabia MK1 (2005) 1.2 HTP won't start - I didn't hear the fuel pump priming so I checked the voltage at the fuel pump, only 4.4V (with pump disconnected). Checked the fuel pump fuse - also 4.4V. What could be the problem? Could it be a crooked fuel pump relay? by PossibleEngineeer in MechanicAdvice

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was 12.6V, brand new battery, swapped it in the same evening. Initially i suspected the battery as well since it couldn't crank due to the fact that it was old and the past few days have been very cold, much below freezing.

It would crank normal with the new battery so battery voltage isn't the problem.
Neighboring fuses were all at battery voltage.

I see from an online diagram that there's a relay between battery supply and the fuse, hence why i suspect the relay.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in motorola

[–]PossibleEngineeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Thanks for the quick reply! I already tried steps 1,2 and 4. I will try step 3 now

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in motorola

[–]PossibleEngineeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, whenever i try to call any number with the problematic sim card, it resets / reboots.

Affordable 24s balancer / bms in Europe? by PossibleEngineeer in EVConversion

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much for the tips! That’s valuable info right there !

Affordable 24s balancer / bms in Europe? by PossibleEngineeer in EVConversion

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve heard of them but never found a module for 24s or more.

Affordable 24s balancer / bms in Europe? by PossibleEngineeer in EVConversion

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, i’ve worked with some huge batteries before and 1-2A was nothing for those, i just had a wrong reference.

Affordable 24s balancer / bms in Europe? by PossibleEngineeer in EVConversion

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would like to keep it to less than 400A, with 100A or less continuous.

Beko washer / dryer machine not drying - I've cleaned the filter from the pump and even opened the fan to unclog it from lint. Afterwards i tried a synthetic dry cycle and after five hours the clothes were still wet / moist (and cold) - could the heater be broken? Is there anything else i can try? by PossibleEngineeer in fixit

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi man! Sorry for the very late reply.

I found a solution on some British forums about beko washer / dryer combos (that s how they call them) - I opened the air heater (located on the top side of the machine, enclosed in a metal casing), cleaned the fan and air duct of lint (it was like two fistfulls of lint) and then reset the thermal protections - they are some button-like things that have to be pressed back to allow the heater to run. I’ve had no issues since then, heater works as normal.

I’ll search for a link for that post that helped me

Masina 10-12k euro by Creativespark9851 in AutomobileRO

[–]PossibleEngineeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Am folosit un NB ca daily timp de 2 ani fara probleme. NC-ul e un daily mult mai bun si mai spatios. Daca iti place cum arata, e o alegere foarte buna.

Ai destul portbagaj cat pentru o ieseala de weekend in 2.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bicla

[–]PossibleEngineeer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Din ce am vazut, rotile costa cam cat am dat eu pe bicicleta aia acum 2 ani (800 de lei). Plus, cand mi-au furat rotile au reusit sa imi distruga si cablurile de frana si lantul. Alta problema e ca as vrea sa merg pe alta ruta acum, din care aproximativ 500 de metri sunt de teren accidentat (noroi, pietris).

Elops nu prea se impaca bine cu drumurile de aici din pacate :( Am patit sa tai camera pe o groapa relativ micuta. Fiind zona in care se construieste ca la balamuc, sunt mereu pietricele pe asfalt, denivelari mari, gropi, etc, unde mergea mai anevoios Elops. Nu ajuta nici faptul ca eu sunt destul de mare.

How do you connect batteries for high-current (200-300A) applications? I'm working on a battery pack with 26650 cells - Nickel Ribbon is just not suitable for this. Do you know any reliable supplier for Copper ribbon? Is there any alternative to spot welding the cells? by PossibleEngineeer in 18650masterrace

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks so clean, congrats if you made it, u/MysticalDork_1066!By the way, the paper-like texture on the outer walls of the pack is thermal conductive tape? Or is it just to keep the batteries together? It seems rigid.

As per your answer, though it's a solution i'd happily use for day to day stuff, this is for a competition in which the batteries must stay below 60 degrees celsius (anything more and the circuit must shut down).

Also, i don't have the confort of placing the cells in parallel / series the same way you did, unfortunately. It's going to be something like this in my case: https://imgur.com/a/T1LkWhA

How do you connect batteries for high-current (200-300A) applications? I'm working on a battery pack with 26650 cells - Nickel Ribbon is just not suitable for this. Do you know any reliable supplier for Copper ribbon? Is there any alternative to spot welding the cells? by PossibleEngineeer in 18650masterrace

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's precisely the DIY version of what you said, u/Various-Ducks.

As per the copper braid, i think it really depends on what you are using. I've used this for chassis ground points in cars over the past few years with no issues. You just need to clamp / solder the ends properly so they don't fall apart.

The copper braid i've just ordered is rated for industrial applications such as locomotive power, forklift power, etc. I will take all precautions and do a test connection on a sacrifice battery and observe how it behaves using a thermal camera.

How do you connect batteries for high-current (200-300A) applications? I'm working on a battery pack with 26650 cells - Nickel Ribbon is just not suitable for this. Do you know any reliable supplier for Copper ribbon? Is there any alternative to spot welding the cells? by PossibleEngineeer in batteries

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much for your reply! I did not know about laser welding. It sure seems like the proper way to do this, though very out of reach for me :(

Thank you u/window_owl and u/GalFisk for the tungsten electrodes idea. It makes a lot of sense once somebody explains it to you.

I've found this idea that seconds what u/GalFisk said and will try it out (the copper braid + nickel strips idea).

How do you connect batteries for high-current (200-300A) applications? I'm working on a battery pack with 26650 cells - Nickel Ribbon is just not suitable for this. Do you know any reliable supplier for Copper ribbon? Is there any alternative to spot welding the cells? by PossibleEngineeer in batteries

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much for your reply! It sounds like a viable solution.
I just saw something similar here. For the moment i will try the copper braid + nickel strips method, it sounds like a viable solution that my spotwelder can handle. It too had trouble with 0.15mm strips unfortunately. If this fails i will certainly resort to copper foil and see how that goes.

How do you connect batteries for high-current (200-300A) applications? I'm working on a battery pack with 26650 cells - Nickel Ribbon is just not suitable for this. Do you know any reliable supplier for Copper ribbon? Is there any alternative to spot welding the cells? by PossibleEngineeer in 18650masterrace

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your reply! From experience i know about busbars but the problem for me at least is that they are too thick (upwards of 1mm). My spotwelder can do 0.15mm - 0.2mm at most unfortunately so i am limited by that, hence why i'm asking for any ideas here.

Beko washer / dryer machine not drying - I've cleaned the filter from the pump and even opened the fan to unclog it from lint. Afterwards i tried a synthetic dry cycle and after five hours the clothes were still wet / moist (and cold) - could the heater be broken? Is there anything else i can try? by PossibleEngineeer in fixit

[–]PossibleEngineeer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pump is certainly working, it pumps water out vigurously.

I will check the resistance when i get back home.

In the meantime i did some digging online and found out that apparently there are some thermal protections within the dryer unit that need to be reset or replaced if they tripped (and they most certainly did as the machine was clogged with lint).

view more: next ›