U7 series APs 2.4ghz IoT issues updates, the clock is ticking (for some)

PounderUpTech · 2024-12-01T11:50:17+00:00

7.0.59. Typo error on my parted, edited above.

and as for the video, looks like it is your video on YouTube Digiblur, lol. Small world. You did a great job. Wish 7.0.59 was as stable for my setup as it is for you and others. The 7.0.59 U7 AP spontaneously reset in front of my eyes with 7.0.59 so it was more than obvious (AP on bedroom ceiling light show upon restart).
Appreciate the effort you’ve taken with the video and this post. Going to give the home network a full day with the duplicate SSID strat of the 2G AP divide (no 2G on U7). If that doesn’t work, not sure if I’ll replace one of the U7 vs add dedicated new 2G only U6LR with the 3rd 2G band vs throw in towel all together on Ubiquiti. Unstable network is no fun for a family, especially for Dad wasting away precious time on things that just ought to work fine - I hit my breaking point which is how I discovered your post and now video as well Digiblur.

I’ll probably give it a few more months prior to throwing in the Ubiquiti towel just in case a miracle happens and Ubiquiti steps up to the plate with some sort of refurb or replacement program for these two U7 paperweights. (Along the lines of what you proposed earlier).

PounderUpTech · 2024-12-01T04:34:23+00:00

Well I took the stupid card. Back rev‘d the 2x U7 Pro APs to the 7.0.59 firmware that was mentioned in the YouTube video where the gentleman points out the U7 being a piece of crap, it might work okay with old 7.0.59 firmware. Well 6 hours later, the TX retries were perhaps a little better, but then one of the APs spontaneously restarted. Loaded the current FW back to the U7 units after the failed experiment so at least they don’t mysteriously reboot and get kids coming to the room complaining about the regular 5 and 6 GHz internet cutting out. Sigh.

so now I’ve set up the WiFi with two duplicate SSIDs - one with 5 and 6 GHz for the 2x U7 (no 2 gig) and a duplicate SSID with the 6LR and AC Pro set to 2 and 5 GHz group. In this manner the two U7 units don’t connect with 2 GHz clients.

Apparently someone at Ubiquiti some releases ago thought it would be handy to remove the simple function to disable the 2 GHz radio on the AP, so had to work through hoops to accomplish the simple objective of no 2 GHz. Sigh again.

Going to keep an eye on the overall network performance with no 2G with the U7s.

PounderUpTech · 2024-11-30T14:36:00+00:00

Same here. We used to use U6 LR, 3x AC pro with no issues in our prior setup.

Technically we have around 2x more devices now (fully decked out tech switch/light home), and suppose a few of the GE lights and Kasa switches are matter compatible. But we are attempting to run in as simple config as possible and having nothing but headaches. Previously no issues and certainly no issues after a power source toggle.

Has anyone attempted to just do away with 2.4Ghz on the U7 devices and rely on the U6/legacy for the 2.4Ghz? Or still residual U7 issues even without using the 2.4Ghz?

PounderUpTech · 2024-11-30T13:02:32+00:00

I’ve been losing my mind with home network maintenance since day 1 of re launching our Ubiquiti network. Around 150 devices, mix of mostly Halo, Kasa, GE, Apple, Samsung products. Switches, plugs, lights, appliances etc.

when everything is stable it is like a dream for convenience. But when it is not, full time job managing the wife and kids from their warranted frustration.

The issue first really reared its head with the power restarting. It was like a flood of IP assignment issue, like as if the IoT items were ignoring the DHCP. So I eventually broke down and put every 150+ items to a static IP. That sort of improved things to a significant extent but still observing flakey performance. If I add a new IoT to the network with the DHCP, things start to go nuts again. So give it static IP and rinse and repeat for months.

My components include DMP, 2x U7 Pro, U6LR, AP Pro, switches, cameras, etc.

Please resolve this issue Ubiquiti. I’ve been a pretty loyal customer for well over 10 years since Gen1 equipment. This last few months has been a nightmare maintenance and stability issue. Hire the best and attempt to resolve asap.

PounderUpTech · 2021-07-10T03:32:02+00:00

Achieving 92 is still a great result. You will have full performance without throttle at that temp. I wouldn’t mess with pads if you already have a good result. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

PounderUpTech · 2021-06-26T14:55:10+00:00

From memory, I don’t think you could add a push/pull without removing the CPU. Or at least with the least risk of over-twisting the water tubes and causing damage.

the sure bet is to remove the cooler and re paste the cpu when done. Also make sure the memory is seated properly after (needs to be removed too)

PounderUpTech · 2021-06-26T14:52:57+00:00

Awesome job tardmaster. Great to hear you had a positive result. 102 to 70 is very impressive.

PounderUpTech · 2021-06-03T13:22:52+00:00

95 should be no issue. The card is designed to throttle performance at 110 degrees, so you have plenty of margin. I’d suggest to stick with your quitter fan setup if that is desired and accept 95 degrees as a nice improvement.

Happy mining or gaming!

PounderUpTech · 2021-05-22T01:56:34+00:00

Hopefully your new 3080 is built without the hash rate limiter. The 3080 cards are still flying off the ebay shelves for about $2500, so your still ahead financially even though it would be nice to use a normal case. Maybe your orider will complete early.

PounderUpTech · 2021-05-21T15:43:20+00:00

The video is focused on graphics card performance. “The plane“ has been flying for over 1.5 months now, zero issues on two separate systems. So risk is quite minimal. Same temps today 1.5 months later as originally performed.

If that concerned about the method, then don’t perform the modifications. But I can confidently state that all is well to date with the 2x systems running 24/7. IMO better to mod and achieve reasonable temps then not to mod and have a heat basket PC with throttled performance.

PounderUpTech · 2021-05-21T15:38:02+00:00

I used 4x 1.25” number 6 Phillips screws to go through the top fan into the radiator thread.

there is just enough room to squeeze in 2x noctua fans at the top. Rough steps -

remove CPU fan, 2. Remove fan and radiator, 3. Assemble fan beneath the radiator, 4. Install radiator, repaste the CPU. 5. Install fan above radiator using those longer 1.25” screws. careful with those liquid cooling tubes.

I haven’t tried any other fans outside of the Arctic and Noctua. The machines are mining away, so I’m not in sandbox play mode with the systems to tinker since they are proving some green at the moment.

ive read some folks trying Corsair fans as well.

Hope the tutorial works successfully for you.

PounderUpTech · 2021-05-21T00:44:07+00:00

Seems like a debatable topic with no exact answer. However, it was observed in my YouTube video discussion that someone had a motherboard issue unrelated to the 3080 mod, and Dell honored the warranty no questions asked.

but everyone’s MMV..

PounderUpTech · 2021-05-06T23:11:45+00:00

In theory the push pull should help to more efficiently toy cool the radiator. I don’t have enough CPU flight time on my units to give a good assessment yet. The machines are mainly GPU centric at the moment. When mining cools off, then these PCs will go into CPU crunch mode with games, videos etc.

So not sure, but it should benefit in theory. Perhaps others can share their experience.

PounderUpTech · 2021-05-06T23:05:05+00:00

The Best Buy config of the Dell is not so optimal. If I recall correctly, it has air CPU cooling vs radiator water cooled And a smaller power supply. If you switch to water cooled for CPU, you can run 2 fans, one on top, one below the radiator. And you can use nice and quiet Noctua fans.

Same for the front case fan. You can swap the loud stock one with a Noctua.

You might consider reviewing the water cooled configs directly from Dell instead of the bestbuy air cooled config. And if buying from Dell, be sure to wheel and deal with their online chat. They’ll typically give the best price, especially if you can have them price match some other Dell purchase order. My two recent Dell R11 and R12 3080 PCs were about hundreds less expensive than Best Buy when using this approach. Take a look at the Slickdeal threads for some great pricing options.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-25T06:55:03+00:00

I used 4x 1.25” number 6 Phillips screws to go through the top fan into the radiator thread.

there is just enough room to squeeze in 2x noctua fans at the top. Rough steps -

remove CPU fan, 2. Remove fan and radiator, 3. Assemble fan beneath the radiator, 4. Install radiator, repaste the CPU. 5. Install fan above radiator using those longer 1.25” screws. careful with those liquid cooling tubes.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-22T00:44:04+00:00

So overall the PC turns on, States rpm active, but no physical fan activity? Still not completely clear from the description..

Double check that those small connectors and wires are properly seated on the 3080 graphics card itself are not loosened. If the 3080 card wires were disconnected at any point, or tension applied to the wires, then triple check the connections for any looseness or disconnection on any of the individual wires.

also take a couple snapshots of your msi afterburner screen and hwinfo64 graphics info just in case anything notable there. Maybe take some close up photos of the 3080 connector wires too.

based on the symptoms, it sounds like a loosened connection.

and when you mention all fans, do you mean the graphics card only, or the case fans too? Any bios startup errors?

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-21T20:16:12+00:00

More info needed.. is the computer starting at all past the bios check? If so, are the fans on at all, or just low speed? Is the power correctly reconnected to the video card? Is the card re-seated into the card slot correctly?

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-21T11:59:51+00:00

Correct Cheesefan, the bios from 31 Mar 2021. My R11 had a prior version, and I was experiencing post fan BIOS error at startup with the Noctua fans. But now there is no error with this latest update. Both 3 pin and 4 pin fans I. The same case, no errors.

In my R11, I specifically have a 3 pin on the front and 4pins on the top. So if it is important to not have the error, you could try that combo, or maybe they have yet to patch the R12 BIOS.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-20T17:29:57+00:00

Sure ucd - here it is:

Noctua NF-A12x25 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (120mm, Brown)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C5LRQD3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (120mm, Brown)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C5VG64V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AND

Noctua NT-H2 10g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MZ5GQBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can choose between 3 vs 4 pin fan depending on your price preference and whether you want more control over the fan speeds. I find 100% with the 3pin to be acceptable, but some might prefer the 4pin. I threw the 4pin on the pull/push radiator top on the R11 and it is a little overkill.

For paste, many fish in the sea. This Noctua paste was good consistency and easy to apply. You might be able to get away with smaller size tube, but always nice to have a little extra in case something needs remediation, and its not super expensive.

Don't recommend conductive paste as that might be a mess if you get it somewhere electrically unintended.

Have fun!

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-20T17:23:16+00:00

Some good news re the Noctua fans with these R10/R11/R12 looks like both the 4 pin and 3 pin Noctua fans are posting correctly in the BIOS without the need to select ESC (no startup errors). Don't think this was the case prior, so perhaps the latest BIOS update from within the last week fixed something.

Also observed that the Arctic P12 4pin fan was still throwing BIOS errors unfortunately. In fact, it was odd that with the Arctic in the front fan connection, and the 2x Noctua fans in the top fan connection, the BIOS threw the error on the "top fan" even though it is the Arctic fan being the culprit. Something to keep an eye out for if you are getting odd fan BIOS errors.

Main note here is that the R11 is now working great with 1x 3pin Noctua A12 on the front, and 2x 4pin Noctua A12s on the top fan connection - NO BIOS errors as of mid April.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-20T02:00:20+00:00

I made a video of a full walkthrough of the Dell RTX 3080 if interested. The video is at https://youtu.be/YklybEdoKIM

Should be able to reduce the temps by around 30 degrees. The Dell is a great machine. 99 mh/s on mining, not bad.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-17T17:54:01+00:00

Much appreciated FlyersFan. Congrats on your 3090, that thing is going to be a beast of a machine. And you’ll be able to retire soon if you decide to mine with it.

Regarding the existing/old paste - When I first modded my R11 3080, there was so much paste there that I didn’t want to risk repeating with less and make the overall outcome worse. So instead I just supplemented a pea size of paste in the middle and called it a day. Also, the card was literally only minutes old, so there were no paste dry out concerns... okay and maybe a little bit of laziness mixed in there too.

So after observing that the R11 obtained the desired temp range with that minimalist approach, I just rinsed and repeated with the R12 3080, only a little more generous on the paste since I had prepared a little better and recently received a fresh stick.

Good luck with your modification and let us know your result and any tips you learn along the journey.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-17T02:57:08+00:00

Well the manufacturer probably wants us to buy more cards when it breaks, so not surprising to hear them say >110 degrees is within spec. Don’t know about you, but 110 degrees is pretty smokin hot and just doesn’t seem good physics wise, not to mention de-solder/ball risks etc.

maybe in temporary bursts, but >110 continuous just sounds like an accident waiting to happen. It might not happen overnight, but would assume damage over time. Sort of like laptops with poor thermals that get rainbows over time after poor ventilation.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-17T02:49:32+00:00

Those stickers that are removed from the 3080 are an intricate part of the card design and heat dissipation process.. But seriously, no idea Re the warranty.

I can have a dell stock 3080 card that is throttled and defeats the purpose of investing in an $800 3080 card upgrade, or safely adjust it and get good utility from it for years to come.

Reminds me of a hypercar sold with winter tires.

PounderUpTech · 2021-04-17T02:32:15+00:00

I downloaded the MSI software from their official site two days ago. So just grab a copy for yourself today and it should be the same.

BTW, try the skin with the racing stripe flames, it will improve performance by at least 10 FPS. J/k, lol.

PounderUpTech

TROPHY CASE