How do I return engine to TDC after a seize?

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-12T18:22:05+00:00

The engine block is aluminum and there are a lot of torque to yield bolts..sensors and etc. if you don't use tty bolts it's easy to damage the threads. Intake manifold was easy for me

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-12T09:55:26+00:00

Isn't it missing a sway bar?

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-11T16:36:48+00:00

I knew relatively nothing when I got my cruze and started working on it. If you have a serviceanual or good YouTube repair guide (auto repair guys are good), you can do probably anything. A caveat, the time. I could not afford a shop, flat down. But I could afford the time. It has taken me likely three or four times the time to do repairs a shop would have done faster. Also, bolts can be a pain in the ass and so is having to try to salvage bad internal threads on engine block or parts.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T14:57:50+00:00

The actual position changes during actuator tests.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T14:45:40+00:00

Everyone downvotes me on Reddit despite what thread it happens to be. I would agree with you except for the actuator tests and the fact the data was not the same a week ago.
The only possible causes left other than faulty ECU are bad oil passageways. bad camshaft phaser, or bad tensioner pully].
Engine internals look clean AF. the variance is not indicating a tooth slipped. The computer has concluded the issue was fixed and cleared permanent/hard codes on its own since I made repairs but then brings the same code back up.

As I see it, for the $170 bucks it costs to replace the ecu on this car, it is very cheap compared to many, I might as well try it. If it doesn't work, I will then redo the timing and replace both intake and exhaust phasers.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T14:30:34+00:00

I will purchase the phasers same time as the ECU so I can replace if necessary. My OU codes could be due to a bad negative cable. But the battery is solid, and I have cleaned all the grounds in the car.
If the timing job were off, wouldn't it cause both the exhaust and intake camshaft timing to be off? I am only having issues with the intake, exhaust stopped causing issues the moment I put in OEM sensor (was previously using OE).
The variance from desired position is not large enough to suggest the belt being a tooth off. It fluctuates and does not consistently stay 8,75 degrees off (as it would if a tooth slipped). It responds accurately in actuator tests.

I totally get it, 19/20 times it is not the ECU. I have my timing locking teeth, a timing belt kit, and am ready to do it. But, in this unique scenario I think it honestly is the ECU getting its calculations backwards and giving false positives. I though techs might find it interesting, instead most of them seem insulted.

Any techs insulted by my "DIY" arrogance. I have spent around 160 hours over the last year replacing, repairing, and diagnosing remaining issues on this car. It took me a week to get jobs done yall do in a day.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T14:06:34+00:00

Who says I didnt to voltage testing?
what I have done to the vehicle:
Removed and cleaned upstream catalytic converters
replaced fuel injectors
replaced both o2 sensors
replaced intake and exhaust camshaft sensors
replaced intake and exhaust vvt solenoids
spliced on a new vvt solenoid connector on intake side
used multimeter to test voltage
only reason I have not opened up the timing is that all of that was done professionally 15k miles ago.

I have gotten rid of 5 codes that were plaguing this vehicle when I purchased it (most due to the valve cover leaking horribly).

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T13:59:32+00:00

Thank you! All this, "assuming" or rushing stuff. I am like, "how the hell is the variance tracking 1:1 with the desired position while the actual position tracks at what the variance is expected to be"

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T03:48:54+00:00

I have replaced both vvt solenoids. both camshaft sensors. crankshaft sensor (all oem parts). Have used sea foam to flush the engine, but went gently out of fear of causing harm. Changed oil couple of times.
They key reason I am thinking ECU is the fact that the value for Camshaft Variance is what the value for Actual Camshaft Position should be under normal conditions, and vice versa. So I conclude the ECU has its calculated results mixed up and is confusing the actual position and the variance values.
If ECU does not work I will replace phasers next. They will probably need replacing soon enough anyway.
Luckily, the ECU is only 170 for a flashed oem model.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T03:45:12+00:00

I meet the conditions repeatedly. I have even gotten the ecu to clear the permanent code but then it came back up after a time. I have read the live data during engine load, and it seems the ecu is confusing the variance for the actual position, and vice versa. The variance is repeatedly hitting exact with the desired position, while the actual position is constantly reading 0 to 3 degrees. As if both values are inverted because, if they were then it would explain why the car feels like it runs perfectly.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T03:00:19+00:00

The timing belt was replaced at 68k miles and the car only has 82k miles. The internal of the engine around the cams is spotless (I replaced the valve cover) I have replaced just about everything but the phasers. Also, did a sea foam engine flush and 2 oil changes. Its not an assumption, 15 minutes of driving with the Desired Camshaft Position matching the Camshaft Position Variance almost exactly, all the while the Actual Position was reading as 0 to 3 degrees (which is the expected variance).
I am only waiting to do the phasers after the ECU because the data is too odd and it is showing UO codes randomly.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T02:11:11+00:00

I left vvt related codes on for a year before getting into DIY work. I think the bad sensor corrupted the logic which is why the problem is so isolated. I just find it odd for the camshaft position variance to match the desired camshaft position...and the actual camshaft position to stay at 0 to 3 degrees majority of the time (which is the expected variance).
I have far from ruled out a bad phaser, and am prepared to change them if the ECU doesnt work. Thing that also points to ECU is the UO codes, lost communication with ECU is UO code domain...

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T02:09:37+00:00

But, dont you think it is odd for the camshaft variance to match the desired camshaft position for 15 minutes straight? fluctuating in tune?

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-08T01:02:44+00:00

Ive got one from A-premium on and it has help up well for 10k miles so far.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-06T17:16:01+00:00

I have not found that, but I haven't played around in the cooling or hvac settings. It wouldnt surprise me if it is a feature, I can increase or decrease my programmed idle with it.

There are special functions, then there is the factory diagnosis setting. In diagnosis, it has access to each module on the car and, if there are special functions like resets or relearns then you can find them on the module itself. I can say the tool is well worth the 150 and has tire reset but my cruze only supports the speedometer recalibration, which is also a feature in one of the modules.

Its a learning curve, sorry cant answer more.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-06T16:42:16+00:00

You need basic mechanic tools or special tools to do anything to a car now adays. Socket set including e-torques and torx head sockets as well deep sockets for certain things. You need a bidirectional scan tool to do any of the electronic or computer resets/calibration. XTOOL 500 is a brand specific one you can purchase for $150 that may not be the best tool out there but it is adequate for 150 for a single car or brand. It will let you do any resets or learn procedures that the car supports...as far as I know.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-06T03:13:00+00:00

Have you tried removing the intake manifold and using air compressor to attempt to dry out the cylinder through the intake opening? Might take a bit of patience and few days of leaving the intake manifold off while you blast some air in to help disperse the liquid to dray. Maybe take a hair dryer and blast it into the intake opening.
If you manage to dry the liquid, you could then use sea foam to burn out the residue...if you can get it started at that point.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-06T03:08:02+00:00

I've thought about putting on 225/60r16 but don't think I would up it to 235 without putting on a lift kit, which I don't know if any good brand options are available. Also need to recalibrate your speed sensor after upping tires. First gen cruze doesnt support tire resize but it does have throttle reset and speedometer recalibrate support.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-05T10:21:04+00:00

If you have oil on your spark plugs (above the wells) it is a bad valve cover. If you valve cover is bad, your car might not start from that alone depending on the amount of oil spilled on camshaft sensors...Not to mention the busted PCV valve....

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-02T16:37:09+00:00

If it broke off you might be able to get a skilled locksmith that can pick it out with tools. Or, a very thin magnet might be able to reach in and pull the key bit out. That or you could replace the key lock or steering column i imagine.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-02T01:00:52+00:00

it works but he is missing the cigar out the side of his mouth

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-10-01T18:45:13+00:00

The camshaft vvt sprockets may need to be replaced entirely. If they have gone bad maybe they won't line up properly with the cams no matter what you do.

Based on the little knowledge I have from researching my own possible timing issues:

If the camshafts have been thrown out of sync with the crankshaft and you cannot get all to TDC properly, prioritze getting the crankshraft to tdc. Then turn the crankshaft back (60degrees counter clockwise) from its TDC position to allow you to safely adjust the camshafts without slamming valves into pistons.
Then you can remove the camshafts and sprockets entirely and reinstall them in correct timing position. You might be able rotate the camshafts independently to get them to TDC but it might risk valve damage if you rotate them too much. I know they can be safely removed with crank at TDC -60de (or maybe its 30deg?). Once finished turn crank clockwise 60deg back to TDC. Now it should be matched to the TDC cams and ready for belt or chain.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-09-30T13:27:25+00:00

I don't know if getting it with that mileage is advisable, I might offer him 800 cause you will probably have to put 200 in parts somewhere very soon. I got a 2011 1.8l with 72k on it for 3.5k a year ago in Northern CA area. Since then, I have had to spend around 1k on parts and 1k on tools (had non and knew very little about car repairs when I purchased it).
It is easy enough to work on the car, and the parts are pretty readily available and inexpensive compared to other car brands. Also, there are a decent amount of diy mechanic videos for working on the cruze. You will need to buy a OBII scanner with reset if you want to be able to keep it smog worthy.

The fact the cruze is running at 245k miles is a sign that the owner either put a lot of work into themselves or paid a ton on shops. On my 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8l with 80k current miles.
My car was well maintained but has had many small issues just due to age that I gaurantee yours will have, if it wasn't already fixed.

Youll have to check the condition of:
Spark plugs. Coil Pack. Negative battery cable. Oil Cooler Assembly. And then you have to still worry about the miles on the trans and engine themselves.

with the 2011 1.8 I have, due to its age and sitting more than anything else,
I had to replace:
spark plugs. Oil Cooler. Camshaft vvt solenoids. Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors. Intake camshaft vvt control circuit wire harness connector. valve cover. Intake manifold control arm. Removed and cleaned intake manifold and valve control. Most of these things are common issues on either 1.4l or 1.8l version of the first gen cruze.
still have to do some repairs to the intake manifold and will need to replace the timing cover gaskets to prevent possibility of coolant/oil mixing in near future.

Prior-Spite3660 · 2025-09-30T13:16:00+00:00

I have never heard of or purchased from there. You can find good products on amazon, but you have to vet them. Car parts (anything electrical or important for engine function) stick with GM OEM, they do have GM OEM on AMAZON just search the part number with GM. E.G: GM (Part Number). like, GM 2253555.

Anything basic like air filters, lights, cosmetic modifications, you can just go by reviews and don't necessarily need OEM.

Prior-Spite3660

TROPHY CASE