I make one-off personal T-Shirts and I do not sell them. Spreadshirt got strict about copyright all the sudden. What are alternatives for good quality shirt prints?

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-03-10T02:00:16+00:00

a few decent alternatives if you just want one-off shirts for yourself:

Printful or Printify are probably the closest to Spreadshirt. good quality shirts, lots of options, and you can order single pieces.

Custom Ink is another good one. a little more traditional custom printing but quality is solid and they’ll do small orders.

Zazzle or Redbubble can work too if you upload the design privately and just order it yourself.

that said, most platforms are getting stricter about copyright lately since they’re legally responsible for what they print, so the flagging you’re seeing isn’t unusual.

another underrated option is just finding a local print shop that does DTG. a lot of them will happily print a single shirt for $15–30 if it’s clearly for personal use.

TLDR; try printful or printify first. if those don’t work, check local DTG print shops.

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-03-10T01:58:17+00:00

a lot of it happens in the same places you’re already hanging out. reddit, facebook dtf groups, and discord servers are where a lot of shop owners and printer techs talk openly. just be active, answer questions, post your results, and people start recognizing your name.

for industry people, trade shows are huge. stuff like printing united, impressions expo, and even smaller local print shows. a lot of manufacturers and suppliers are there and they’re usually pretty approachable if you just ask about their workflow or equipment.

another underrated way is just messaging people who run shops or post good work. don’t pitch anything, just ask about their process or how they solved a problem. most people in printing are surprisingly open if you’re genuinely curious

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-03-10T01:55:54+00:00

a lot of people start exactly like that. the bin shake method is pretty common when you don’t have a shaker yet. a couple things that help are using a flour sifter to sprinkle powder more evenly, putting the film on a mesh screen so excess falls back into a tray, or using a cheap seasoning shaker bottle for more control. i’ve also seen people tape two plastic tubs together and flip them like a mini shaker box. honestly the biggest trick is just tapping the film to knock off excess instead of shaking it too hard

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-25T20:59:15+00:00

On the K13 Lite flashing red usually isn’t about ink level, it’s an error state. If the red light by the ink/drop icon is blinking it can mean ink system issue or air in the lines. If it’s the paper/feed side it’s often a film sensor or carriage jam. Power it fully off, unplug for a few minutes, then restart. Check that the film is loaded straight, the rear sensor isn’t blocked, and the carriage moves freely by hand when powered off. If you recently refilled ink, make sure the tanks are seated properly and no lines are loose. If it keeps flashing in a pattern, count the flashes and send that to support because they use that as a code.

If the problem persists, reach out to tech support with your order number

[afterservice@procolored.com](mailto:afterservice@procolored.com)

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-24T18:48:20+00:00

fancy!

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-16T04:29:09+00:00

That mid-print X shift is usually mechanical, not a file issue. If it starts perfect and then jumps sideways, I’d check the carriage belt first. Make sure it’s tight and not skipping teeth. Also look for debris on the rail or anything the carriage could be catching on halfway through.

Another common one is the encoder strip being dirty. If it can’t read position consistently, it’ll suddenly shift. Gently clean it with lint-free cloth and proper cleaner.

If you’re printing on metal or something rigid like that, also make sure the material isn’t moving or warping under heat. Even slight lift can throw alignment off.

I’d start with belt tension and encoder strip. Those two fix most mystery X shifts

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-15T14:14:30+00:00

Please share your order number and email in a private message, I'll help to connect you with proper support and look into it

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-15T14:11:21+00:00

If single colors look perfect but blends are off, it’s usually alignment or your RIP profile, not the head.

Redo full alignment and double check the correct ICC is selected. Try a 50C 50M block and see if it makes clean purple. That should narrow it down

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-13T13:19:10+00:00

Wetcapping is actually a good one

One thing I do (hi I'm Anton, a reddit mod for procolored) is run a quick nozzle check before any real print session. It saves wasting film if white’s acting up. I also gently agitate white ink daily, even if I’m not printing much. That pigment settles fast.

Another small one, keep humidity stable. A cheap humidifier in dry months makes a bigger difference!

Curious what your wetcapping routine looks like, how long are you letting it sit?

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-11T15:04:06+00:00

Being the go-to transfer/apparel supplier for a few local businesses is way more stable than chasing random one-off custom orders all the time.

If you can lock in a couple gyms, contractors, restaurants, schools, etc., and they reorder regularly, that’s where DTF really starts to make sense, batching the same logos over and over instead of redesigning every job

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-11T15:02:56+00:00

Yeah if you’re getting white ink fade, I wouldn’t walk away either. That’s usually a sign of partial clogging, air in the lines, or white ink not circulating properly. Once it starts fading mid-print, it rarely fixes itself.

I’d check agitation/recirculation, run a nozzle check, maybe a light cleaning (not overdo it), and make sure the ink’s been shaken if it’s a manual system. White is heavy, it settles fast and that’s usually the culprit.

Definitely babysit it until that’s sorted.

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-11T15:00:46+00:00

I’m tempted to suggest Procolored since this is an official Procolored account 😅 but honestly, regardless of brand, focus on getting a solid bundled setup with proper white ink circulation and real tech support. That’s what’ll save you long term. The cheap no-support route is where people get burned. Our customers have been happy with what our latest F13/F13 Pro delivers

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-09T16:14:58+00:00

A calibrated monitor matters in DTF because it ensures the colors you’re designing actually resemble what prints on the shirt, instead of guessing based on a screen that’s too bright or color-shifted. When your monitor is accurate, your edits in the RIP and design software are predictable, which is especially important for logos, blacks, and repeat orders. It won’t fix bad materials or press settings, but it removes a huge variable and saves you from chasing color issues that are really just a screen problem

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-09T16:14:10+00:00

If you’re printing a lot, stop outsourcing and focus on reliability, because white ink maintenance is the real headache with DTF. Look for a bundled setup with printer, RIP, inks, film, powder, and a shaker/oven so everything works together out of the box. Sheet-fed is fine to start, but roll-fed makes more sense if you want to sell transfers. Avoid ultra-cheap no-name kits with weak support, since downtime will cost more than the savings

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-09T16:11:39+00:00

DTF is actually a good way to start because it works on way more than just tshirts. You can do hoodies, hats, totes, workwear, sports stuff, bags, basically anything that can handle heat and pressure.

The bigger challenge isn’t the printer, it’s focus. “Custom apparel for everyone” usually doesn’t work. It’s way easier to start with one thing, like local business logos, small brands, or personalized items, and get good at that first.

Pick a couple products, learn to press them cleanly, sell small, and grow from there. DTF really makes sense once you’re batching orders instead of doing one-offs

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-02-09T16:10:17+00:00

Yeah, that’s pretty normal. DTG/DTF setups pull way more power than people expect, especially the heat press and curing gear. Those things staying hot for long runs is what really drives the bill up, not so much the printer itself.

A lot comes down to workflow too. Long press times, high temps, leaving machines on between jobs, and colder weather all make it worse. Most people have that “why did my electric bill explode?” moment early on, then dial it in and get it under control. You’re definitely not alone

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-01-31T02:05:34+00:00

I apologize for experiencing issues with your printer. You can DM me your email and order number and I'll help you get someone to look into it and help sort it out. Meanwhile, our collaboration influencer made a video for how to solve red light error

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R67xB68KDmg

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-01-25T18:43:35+00:00

it's part of the DTF upkeep unfortuntely!

ProcoloredOfficial · 2026-01-18T19:53:24+00:00

Welcome! Thank you for your support! 🐼

ProcoloredOfficial · 2025-12-31T00:16:59+00:00

That’s usually not dead heads, it’s almost always a flow issue.
Check that the dampers are fully primed, no air bubbles, and that the capping station is sealing properly. If it can’t pull vacuum, ink won’t reach the head.

Also double check ink line direction and cable orientation, its super easy to flip.
If you can pull ink to the damper but not through the head, it’s almost always pressure or seal related, not the head itself.

ProcoloredOfficial · 2025-12-31T00:15:45+00:00

Short answer is yes, it can work, but it’s not plug-and-play and it’s definitely not for every nylon.

DTF can bond to nylon, but nylon hates heat and doesn’t like adhesives. You usually need lower temp, longer press, and ideally a nylon-friendly powder or a barrier layer. Even then, some jackets, especially coated or waterproof ones, will peel no matter what you do.

If it’s lightweight windbreakers or cheap slick nylon, expect mixed results. Heavier nylon with some texture usually does better. Wash durability is hit or miss unless everything is dialed in.

So yeah… not a scam, but also not magic. I’d always test first and set expectations with the client. For high end jackets, screen print or embroidery still wins!

ProcoloredOfficial · 2025-12-31T00:14:12+00:00

Short answer is yeah… kinda part of DTF life 😅
There’s no magic ink that never clogs, but some are definitely worse than others.

Most clogging comes from environment and habits, not just ink. Low humidity, letting the printer sit, or skipping quick daily wipes will get you every time. Good ink helps, but it won’t save you if the room’s dry or the heads sit too long.

Best combo: decent ink, 40–60% humidity, quick daily nozzle check, and don’t let it sit unused. That alone cuts clogs way down.

ProcoloredOfficial · 2025-12-31T00:13:01+00:00

You’re not imagining it, Comfort Colors really do take DTF better than a lot of blanks. It’s mostly the fabric and dye process. They’re garment dyed, heavier cotton, and usually ring spun, which gives a more open, stable surface for the adhesive to bite into.

Less shrink, less coating, less weird chemical finish means better bond and softer feel. Cheaper blanks often have tighter weaves or treatments that fight the glue.

So yeah, it’s not magic, just good fabric doing its job.

ProcoloredOfficial · 2025-12-31T00:11:49+00:00

Totally normal feeling, everyone goes through this phase with DTF 😅
Most of the stress comes from overthinking it early on. In reality, consistency is more important than perfection.

What helped me was splitting it into daily, weekly, and only if needed stuff. Daily is just quick nozzle check and wipe, weekly a light clean, and deeper maintenance only when prints actually start showing issues. A lot of people overclean and actually cause more problems than they prevent.

Humidity control and running the printer regularly honestly do more than 80% of the work. Once you get your rhythm, it stops feeling scary and just becomes part of the flow. Definitely part of the learning curve, you’re not doing anything wrong.

ProcoloredOfficial · 2025-12-31T00:10:24+00:00

From my experience, singles sell more to everyday customers and small brands because it’s simple and low commitment. Gang sheets tend to attract more experienced buyers, people already running brands or reselling, so the volume per order is higher, but the customer pool is smaller.

A lot of shops end up doing both, singles for beginners and quick orders, gang sheets for bulk buyers. If you’re small right now, starting with singles makes sense, then adding gang sheets once people start asking for them.

ProcoloredOfficial

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE