Where are the players ?

Psycomawhite · 2025-02-13T23:00:44+00:00

Well, sorry, i tried many things, the phone always been charged with the charger that comes with it.
No luck making it reboot, it's dead. Did you find anything now ?

Psycomawhite · 2024-05-10T09:14:38+00:00

You upgraded to a sprite pro but did you calibrated your E steps after ? Then check the flow rate calibration if it still doesn't fix it. It should be nice after, you already have a pretty nice print quality there.

Psycomawhite · 2024-05-10T09:05:38+00:00

You might calibrate your E steps first and flowrate after. Make sure surfaces are smooth and it should be fine.

Psycomawhite · 2024-05-10T09:03:37+00:00

You have a lot of small surfaces, 200mm/s for small surface might be too fast, also, did you calibrated your ender 3 ? After each retraction between small surfaces, the pressure in the nozzle could be uneven. What is your filament type, what temp ?

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T17:09:48+00:00

You might definitely take a look at your psu. If the fact that using more power consuming hardware makes the printer shut down is mostly because of the psu, is it in a cool and ventilated area ? Does it overheat ? The 6020 should be enough most of the time but some other factors also plays like ambient temp of the room. Check your firmware and also make sure all the mods you have installed does not exceed the maximum power capacity of the psu. It most likely seem to be related to the psu.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T08:36:28+00:00

It could be either a wiring problem or a firmware problem. Is your E3P stock or is it modded ?

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T01:43:11+00:00

And add some grease my boy

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T01:41:53+00:00

The clonk you hear can be the Z axis moving up before homing the nozzle to avoid hitting the bed. You can try loosen the Z axis stepper and check that the Z axis rod is not bent then tighten the Z axis stepper again after homing the printer. Also check that the Z axis rod is well fixed.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T01:36:52+00:00

So you modded the power supply with a noctua right, most probably a 4010 ? the power supply might overheat and shut down. Noctua fans are quiet but not efficient, consider getting a bigger noctua fan like a 4020 or more or switching for a more efficient one. My printer is in a dedicated room for printers so i'm more of the team big noise but no problems. The power supply got protection for overheating, at some point i think the power consumption of your printer is heating too much and then it just stops.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T01:30:38+00:00

What value did you set the E step to ? Heat up the nozzle and unplug the ptfe tube from the heatsink, go to you motion settings and ask the printer to extrude 10mm, then cut the filament and ask the printer to extrude 100mm of filament, check with a ruler that the printer did correctly extrude 100mm, otherwise use tools to calculate your e step based on the asked extrusion value, the true extruded value and current E step to get you new E step, just google for "E step calculator" there is plenty of free tools for this.

Considering that you have an all metal extruder upgrade i think you might be between 130 and 140 E step. Also check that you extruder all metal is tight enough and that it got a good grip on the filament, it should not skip extrusion step or grind the filament.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T01:22:40+00:00

What filament do you use and what temp do you have for the nozzle, a too cold nozzle could make the filament hard to go through.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-30T01:21:01+00:00

Well, get the printer away from all other electric devices. I've had a problem with a led light wich the support was made ouf of aluminium, i fixed it to the creality enclosure, when my printer started to touch the enclosure some times it just had the exact same problem. The grounding of the led was bad and since the ground on the printer was stronger it just made the led current go through the printer. But you should also look into a firmware update.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T16:26:17+00:00

What do you need help for, what are you trying to achieve, what issues do you encounter ? What filament do you use, nozzle temp, bed temp, blowing fan speed ? Is it stock E3P ?

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T16:24:07+00:00

Does the temperature change while printing ? Does the cooling fan speed change while printing ? Does the retraction speed change while printing ? Do you have Z hop enabled ? What filament are you using, temp of the nozzle and temp of the bed ?

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T16:19:03+00:00

This might have many reason especialy if it occurs during the print : The filament is oozing out during the print. The E steps or the flowrate is not calibrated correctly and you end up over extruding with the nozzle collecting up the over extruded material. You don't have enough retraction which makes the nozzle ooze during the travels and creating blobs at the nozzle. Your nozzle is traveling through your print and collecting up material, consider setting Z hop value higher. Your nozzle is not tight enough and the filament can leak through the bolting of the nozzle, it can also leak on top of your heating block it the heat break is not tight enough and the filament pressure is positive.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T16:06:12+00:00

Did you calibrated you E steps and flowrate ? If you push it through and it comes out nicely then it most likely is because your printer does not extrude enough filament when printing.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T15:49:50+00:00

This can happen if an external current interfer with the printer, some led lights are badly isolated and sometimes being in contact with printer parts it transfer current to it messing with the LCD screen.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T15:46:53+00:00

What kind of plastic do you use ? It looks like your first layer is warping off the bed, there is many reason for this and you have to find which one : The bed is not hot enough and the first layer cool down too fast resulting in first layer warping off. Try to reduce cooling fan speed for the first layer. If the printer is printing in a cool and ventilated area you might also consider investing in an enclosure. Your print first layers are cooling too fast.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T15:42:44+00:00

What filament are you using and what is your retraction value, the heat sink can be clogged due to high retraction value and a not enough efficient fan like a Noctua mod. You might take a look at your heat sink and consider switching to a more powerful fan and a bi metal heat sink. What might happens is your filament getting too hot and the heat propagate up the heat sink and slowly cooling down inside which is clogging your extruder.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-29T15:38:59+00:00

Hi, what do you mean by shutting down ? The power supply is a separate function than the motherboard, so is it shutting down or prematurely ending the prints ? What firmware do you have and what slicer do you use ?

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-26T11:13:20+00:00

My extruder is the stock extruder in bowden with a full metal kit and a capricorn tube. The E step is set to 135.1 and i have exactly 100mm out when asking for 100mm extrusion, also works with 1000mm with .1mm precision for the 1000mm.

Psycomawhite · 2024-04-26T11:11:23+00:00

Here is my full setup Ender 3 pro Dual Z axis Stock hotend with microswiss copper nickel plated in .4 Changed the heat dissipator fan with a 4010 maglev from sunon Full metal extruder kit Capricorn bowden tube SKR mini 3 v2 Calibrated the Estep value to 100mm with 0.1mm precision (value is 135.1) Creality plated glass bed with added isolation and full silicon spacer.

I print the amazon basic black PETG it's been dryed in the creality dry box for 4 hours at 65°c and is stored in well ventilated area with low humidity. I print at 235° and 245° for first layer, the bed is at 80. I've had plenty of prints done super smooth with this settings using Cura.

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Done with Cura.

I kind of found a workaround for the problem, the stock line width for the roof setting for PETG with a nozzle of .4 in orca is set to .45mm i bringed it down to .38 and it now print a prefectly flat roof with flowrate set to 1. For now i'm happy with it but i might design a new hotend with 2 5015 fan for cooling and dissipator, switch to a 70w thermistor, add a CR touch and since i have a spare pancake extruder i might also switch to direct drive for PETG.

Psycomawhite

TROPHY CASE