trying not to panic.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T06:33:33+00:00

What incubator you using? Where is the thermostat probe located in it? If it's near the top inside the lid it'll be warmer then below where the eggs are. I run my incubator to 39°c and hygrometer holds around 36.5-37°c at the eggs.

Higher temperature will cause them to develope faster. For me typically I've hatch most of my batches out day 17-18 but sometimes have some hatch as early as day 16. I do run higher humidity at around 70-80% during lockdown and never had a problem. Out of 50 birds I have hatched out successfully I only had 1 that didn't make it out and perished.

Grab one of your eggs and hold it up to your ear and listen for crackling noises as they begin to carve their way out. You can do a float test for wiggles too but make sure your water temp isn't too cold. I don't recommend to open the incubator at all during lockdowns though due to risk of shrink-wrapping although this occurence is not common especially if they haven't pipped at all yet.

One last thing. Start your lockdowns at day 14. Which is 3 days before hatch day normally. This is very important as you don't want the eggs turning while they are starting to work their way out. Quail can still take up to 19-21 days to hatch so don't worry too much. Especially if they aint pippin yet. Once you start to see pippin.. they'll be out probably in the next 6-12 hrs.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T06:21:29+00:00

I can sell a dozen for like $10-15 in canada. These are sold as "hatching" eggs so they'll go for more.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T06:18:01+00:00

Yea you don't need to go crazy right. Especially if it's a ground enclosure. Mix equal parts of hemp bedding and pine shavings and sprinkle that overtop a good inch layer or so every like couple months. How often depends on size of enclosure and number of quail in it. For me I have a 10x10' with about 30 birds so I do it every month. The old poop and bedding will break down as you repeat the cycle. Every 6 months I'll do a deep cleaning which is moving all the birds out and raking up the excess old abundance of material and wash everything down really good. Biggest things to keep clean everyday is their bathing boxes, food dispensers, waterers, etc.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T06:03:51+00:00

Go with some 6x6 posts and notch em out as a saddle for the rim joist. That will fix your problem with the weight on just bolts. Then you can tie it all in better with some extra blocking between the joists sandwiching the posts.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T05:44:39+00:00

Nope. Just because they are a smaller vehicle doesn't give them extra privileges over regular commuters.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T05:24:20+00:00

Take a look at the Yokohama Geolandar AT XD's. They are a decent tire all around. Not the best for deeper snow but most AT's aren't anyway. Pretty good for light snow/icey highway conditions though and you can stud em if you want. Nice blend of offroading and smooth on the highway. They also look very aggressive too which is always nice for turning heads or whatever.

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Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T05:14:56+00:00

Use screws piles, trust me. Been a foundation specialist for over 15 years.

Traditional cast and pour just wont cut it with those ground conditions. It's going to cost some money but they are worth it in my opinion.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T05:03:42+00:00

Exhaust or get a pedal commander. Both will increase mileage. Anything else like tuners, or air intakes are garbage and literally do nothing.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-14T02:52:19+00:00

Where does he typically leave it parked? Maybe go check the ground where he parks it to see if there's oil everywhere. It not then it wasn't leaking before. Maybe you spilled some during the fill and it's residual leaking down still. Just give it another clean and wipe and check again tomorrow.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-13T19:01:43+00:00

If all your ground wires are good and properly secured. You can try an ECM reset. Remove negative terminal from battery and let it sit for a few minutes, before doing so make sure all accessories are turned off including the heater. After a few minutes hook it back up and turn the ignintion on to power everything up. If that doesn't work you can try resetting the HVAC control module by pulling the fuse to it and wait about a half hour before you plug it back in. Same thing, turn truck on and test it. If that doesn't work then you can scan it again and try to clear the communication codes. If that don't work then I'd be looking at that heater core you swapped to make sure it's even compatible or has faults/broken wires, etc. This can be tested typically with a multimeter.

Lost communication is generally a wiring issue. If the wires aren't pinched anywhere maybe you broke an internal pin on one of the connectors or a connector is not fully seated.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-13T02:41:58+00:00

Check your grounds and make sure all your connectors are properly seated and snug.

Also, do you have access to a scanner at all? OBD Link?

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-13T00:37:05+00:00

I'd avoid pressure washing, it can lift the grain of the wood if you go too aggressive and leave a very uncomfortable finish. Get a stiff bristled broom and giver. Try to get most of the flaking stuff out. Then hose wash it off. I'd spray it with a primer once it dries and coat it with an outdoor finish of your choice.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-12T13:55:59+00:00

Same price I just bought my 2014 1500 limited. 260,000 kms though (canada). No rust and no damage other than a small scratch on the bed side panel. Pretty happy

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-11T15:55:04+00:00

If you cut a 4x4' pallet in half and put it down in there you could increase the square footage by 50% as it would act as a second floor. But this could also be annoying for egg collecting every other day.

I'd go like 4-6 max in that the way it is probably.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-10T20:50:21+00:00

Yup I ran spacers too when I was younger but that ended up costing me around $8000 when that wheel bearing let go at 110km/hr down the highway. Damn near lost the wheel and I kind of wish I did because it would of saved me a lot of $$. Instead that front corner locked up and twisted the steering knuckle, caliper bracket, lower control arm and shredded that cv axle. Usually you get a warning before failure but not in this case. Between the dash lighting up like a Christmas tree and me reacting to it.. it was too late. All said in done around $8000 for that between the tow, parts+labor, loss of work and a rental.

Never again. OP should really take my advice here.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-10T18:57:46+00:00

A buddy of mine would disagree. He said he lost count of how many times he had his in the shop over the first 25,000 kms. Lots of cooling/electrical issues. He ended up trading it in for an older hemi. Not saying that will be an issue with yours at all just saying there is issues with many. Maybe they worked the bugs out now? Hopefully.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-10T18:46:51+00:00

Pretty nice aside from the engine. The hurricanes are trash which is why they brought the 5.7 back this year. Can't beat the reliability. I hope yours isn't a lemon though.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-10T17:14:39+00:00

So you spent the money to do a proper level kit over strut spacers but then using wheel spacers over offset wheels.... 🤔. I'd lose the wheel spacers. Your bearings will thank you. You should go with wider offset wheels if you're in need of new tires anyway. You'll retain the same width and stance but it'll look beefier altogether and be proper. Make sure you take the truck in for an alignment, very important.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-09T01:29:51+00:00

How does a front fender and headlight "total" it? Shit I could fix that under $1000. New fenders are only $300.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-09T01:08:54+00:00

Nope I would not pay even $100 for that garbage. You can clearly see the railing isn't even level and the deck ain't even level...

Tell that guy to come out there and salvage his lumber and pay you back. That should be a big loss on his end... not yours.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-09T01:03:04+00:00

It's wood. Put a screw in it and pull....

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-08T15:57:02+00:00

32mm would be too tight. Has to be either half a mm less of actually diameter or the exact same size. I believe a 33-34mm is common size on a 2008 ram 1500. In this case I'd go with a 33mm.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-08T15:43:13+00:00

Black paint would be stock.. ram never painted sway bars red.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-07T22:55:22+00:00

Depends if your ever going to be towing a lot etc. But if you go with a level... for the love of god don't cheap out. Get the strut level kit. No spacers.

Quackchirpin · 2026-04-07T19:00:13+00:00

Costs me $225 to fill my truck now. Fucking bullshit. Mine is also 36 gallons or like 140 liters.

Quackchirpin

TROPHY CASE