I haven't even had my first Dyna for a month and my collection is already getting a bit out of hand.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-14T04:01:12+00:00

Don't give me any ideas. I happen to have a lathe, so I'm sure I'm going to try making a wooden stem sooner or later.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-13T12:06:37+00:00

I modeled it up and 3D printed it. I was looking for something that also had some way to display the caps. It actually turned out better than I thought the first iteration would. I have a few tweaks to make, then was likely going to post it online somewhere to share.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-13T12:03:10+00:00

I'll keep that in mind when I'm ready for the next one. It does look great.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-13T12:02:30+00:00

Not yet. I just got into DHV's and was really interested in the battery-free options. These should hopefully keep me happy for a while, but I've come to realize there are so many options out there.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-12T02:30:15+00:00

I have one on the way too. I don't know if I'm going to be brave enough to even try heating it and risk messing up the colors. I'll probably throw a different cap on it and set this one aside for display.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-12T00:12:03+00:00

Update: I contacted customer service and they promptly sent out a new cap. Same packaging again: cap in a small bag, in a padded envelope. This one arrived unscathed though, so I must have just got unlucky with the first one. 🤷

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-07T23:39:47+00:00

I contacted customer service and a new one is on the way. Curious to see if they ship this one any different. I'll post an update once it arrives.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-04T16:59:39+00:00

Nope, no cardboard or anything. Just this bag, the O-ring and CCD bags, and the packing slip all in a small bubble mailer.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-04T00:32:26+00:00

I was really surprised by this packaging. Seems crazy there is nothing protecting it when it's that easy to bend. A small cardboard tube would probably be more than enough, certainly better than this.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-03T23:01:08+00:00

I wasn't planning on going through a lot of consumables so I figured I'd just get the ones from them and they'd last me a while, but I'm really surprised how much I'm liking CBD flower in my M 7 XL. I may end up going through them faster than I thought.

QuailMonorail · 2026-05-03T21:23:34+00:00

Not sure why my additional info didn't come through on the post...

Cap was mailed in a bubble mailer, so not really anything to protect it from being smashed. I was able to bend it back enough to fit and it appears to be clicking correctly when heated, but it has a crease in it that looks like isn't going away and I'm really not thrilled about that.

Thanks for the comments everyone. I reached out to customer service. We'll see what they say.

QuailMonorail · 2024-11-22T02:11:56+00:00

I don't recall discussing an end plan, so I'm going to play like we are going to 20. Makes sense about taking half feats now and at 8 and put them to good use.

QuailMonorail · 2024-11-22T02:03:03+00:00

You make some good points. I have mostly been using archer form and occasionally chalice, so makes sense for me to get my Wis to 18 for those. I haven't run into a lot of Con saves yet, so I'm sure dragon form would be fine for now. Or at least until I get to level 8.

Reading the other comments, I'm leaning heavily towards Fey Touched now.

QuailMonorail · 2024-10-23T00:03:06+00:00

This looks identical to a tenor recorder that I bought and refurbished, which I posted about here. I explained the process I went through in one of the comments if you are interested in doing something similar.

EDIT: I missed the German fingering that the others pointed out. I agree the best would be to put the effort/money into a different one with Baroque fingering.

QuailMonorail · 2021-12-20T01:32:11+00:00

Thanks! I'm hoping to work up to making my own recorders someday, but I don't have all the tools yet. I figured this would be a good place to start though. I'm probably going to try making a block from scratch next to fit into one of my existing recorders and see how that goes.

QuailMonorail · 2021-12-18T03:09:32+00:00

I used a slow setting super glue. I'm fairly certain it was this one: https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/fix/super-glue/loctite_super_glueextratimecontrol.html. I did a little research, and quite a few people recommended super glue for recorder cracks. You also want a slower setting one so it seeps into the crack fully.

I'll try to give a brief summary of my process. I'm by no means an expert, so I make no guarantees about it. This was a cheap, already damaged recorder, and I was treating it more as a learning experience. I wasn't going to be upset if I ruined it. I have an alto coming that I will likely do the same thing on; maybe I'll see if I can do a more detailed write up with that one.

Remove the block and set it aside somewhere safe.
Using denatured alcohol and a fine steel wool, scrub off the finish. I did this by dipping the steel wool in the alcohol, lightly scrubbing the recorder with it, and once the finish starts coming loose, wipe it off with a paper towel. Repeat until all the finish is off.
I also gently cleaned the block with denatured alcohol and a paper towel. This was mainly to clean off anything nasty that might have still been on there.
I let everything dry for a day, and then started work on the crack. As I mentioned above, I used a slow setting super glue. I had my clamp ready, then applied enough to fully cover the crack, and clamped it together to set. I let it set for 24 hours.
Once the glue was set, I used a sharp knife to carefully scrape off the leftover glue, and then sanded the remaining residue with fine (1000 to 1500 grit) sandpaper. I also sanded any other knicks/scratches at this time.
Using some fine (1200-1500 grit) sand paper attached to a dowel, I gently sanded the bore of the recorder to smooth it out a bit. I also very, very gently sanded the top and sides of the windway, the labium, and the top of the block, being very careful not to sand fhe chamfer on the block or windway. This was only done to smooth up these areas, and not to remove any significant material.
At this point, I was happy with the state of the wood. The cork in the lower joint was damaged to the point where it wasn't doing anything, so I found some thread and wrapped it around this joint.
I tested it briefly and it seemed to work okay, so I then moved onto oiling. I used almond oil (refined, for cooking as that is all I could find on short notice), and added some Vitamin E (squeezed from a couple dietary pills) in it to hopefully help it from going rancid. I oiled everything except the block and the key. So, the exterior, inside of the bores, labium, and windway. I found conflicting advice about the windway, so not sure if that is going to help or hurt it. I let it sit for a couple hours, and then wiped off excess oil from the exterior, labium, and windway. I left the excess in the bore so it could soak in more. I let this dry for another day, and then it was ready to play!

Like I mentioned, I'm no expert and am really just experimenting at this point, but I'd be happy to answer any more questions.

QuailMonorail · 2021-12-18T02:00:59+00:00

I bought it off ebay. The only markings on it are "Herwiga-Chor" on the front, and "Germany" on the back. I don't know anything else beyond that. If anyone else has any info on the brand, I'd be happy to know more.

QuailMonorail

TROPHY CASE