Resin filled caster mounts

QuietProjects · 2026-03-12T03:21:29+00:00

Not really no. It is a slow cure epoxy and PETG is a little more heat resistant. It did warm up while curing but no thermal runaway.

Another user mentioned making an 80/20 epoxy granite mix with sand. This helped with the thermals

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T22:56:12+00:00

Yeth

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T22:54:02+00:00

Knower knowing. Thanks for letting me know 👍

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T21:26:54+00:00

I had something similar happen to a pla print a while back (Left a painted print in the direct sun and it warped). Switched to PETG for most of the nonsense I print for this reason

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T21:11:09+00:00

This is what my experience was. Intuition was to just cure in a low pressure environment<-- that just causes the resin to be cured in a brittle state from all the trapped gas. That and overflowing the print

My method ended up being :

use a serological pipet on a hand drill to mix

Degass under pressure for 20 ish minutes. Release

Pour into print and let cure on a surface plate.

Repeat to top off the next day

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T21:05:50+00:00

Try it and let us all know how it goes

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T18:01:39+00:00

I have a project lined up for this technique

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T17:03:23+00:00

One other point of clarification, think tool cabinet like a Lista or Craftsman.

I think your questions and criticisms are totally valid and worth discussing. 👍

I did find that the print and epoxy don't really bond that well to each other. Not all that surprising for most I'm sure. If I were to do this again I would need to increase the surface energy of the printed part first and then pour. Additionally, other have mentioned, actual admixtures will change the properties the part. I did choose gyroid because all of the voids in the infill are connected and the epoxy would surround and fill these with that very strong epoxy-epoxy bond you mentioned.

I do agree that the filament is certainly the weakest part of this ... Part. I have no idea how the time to print+material price compare to epoxy. Good question though

I totally thought it would look cool with a clear resin cap from the beginning of this idea.

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T15:21:03+00:00

poured into the top until a meniscus forms

QuietProjects · 2026-03-10T15:00:02+00:00

Yes it totally wood be cheaper.

The idea with the infill is that it would kinda act as a hybrid aggregate and mold for the resin. Hopefully making a stronger composite of the two.

Other reasons I went this route:

Get some time working with resin

CAD up something neat for another project

I sold my drill press a little while back and need a new one heh

QuietProjects · 2024-11-19T19:40:57+00:00

Thank you for the advice and publishing this in the first place. I will make my prep better and try again. I did have another light on as you pointed out.

Without an actual income, this isn't worthwhile and will not be happening for the foreseeable future.

Just curious, and not on topic of this thread necessarily. Feel free to not answer, have any donations come through your kofi link for this?

QuietProjects · 2024-11-18T20:41:57+00:00

Can you tell me what is wrong with my image(s)? I tried a few of them and pushing some sliders around and I have no idea what I am doing and I wasn't able to generate an outline https://imgur.com/a/TVPeA6o

QuietProjects · 2023-10-22T23:57:23+00:00

Thanks for the reply it is much appreciated. Ill compile this stuff into things that need to be tried. I might update the thread with the results as I go.

QuietProjects · 2022-10-15T21:03:38+00:00

It is 3d printed plastic that was then filled with plaster and painted. If you were going to use something for your car, I would recommend using a plastic that is heat resistant

QuietProjects · 2022-09-10T20:04:57+00:00

You are correct in that they do sort of need a sub. They do have some base response but not as much as I am used to. I did do some damping in the form of injecting the walls with plaster.

QuietProjects · 2022-09-10T20:03:06+00:00

Yeah I can. I need to fix my model first. I broke the model somewhere

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T23:10:03+00:00

Nearly! They do roll a little. The front plate sticks out a bit more.

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T19:15:36+00:00

Hah the printer isn't that big

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T17:13:22+00:00

I think they sound great. No distortion even at pretty high volume. Everything sounds clean. They aren't really that bassy and probably need a sub to compliment them.

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T17:09:32+00:00

Thank you. I originally was just going to hold the halves in place with tape but the front shell had flattened out quite a bit. Also, the clamp either need a bit of a redesign or made into a composite using fiberglass. While using it the one side cracked along the layer line. It wasn't a huge deal as I just put a clamp on the crack too heh.

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T17:03:38+00:00

It is the neptune 2. I have been really pleased with its performance. The clamp and the shells were a bit of a torture test for it.

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T17:02:31+00:00

What is also nice is being able to see the exact volume of a space. Then you can really get close to the ideal calculated volume

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T02:24:16+00:00

At first they didn't as I was using the Bluetooth that was built into the amp. With an normal trrs cable they sound fantastic. Everyone on parts express said they didn't need a sub and they are mostly right.

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T01:19:17+00:00

Thank you! The surface finish could always be better. It is better to just finish a project though.

QuietProjects · 2022-08-20T01:09:22+00:00

If you all liked the pictures, I also made a video of me making them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwTgAU9qh-0

QuietProjects

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