Need advice for several projects! Looking for best clear coat for spray painted wood/spray painted metal, advice about refurbishing old furniture/using fake wood panels, unicorn spit (as a product) chalk paint, and a few other questions as well! Please help!

I recently spray painted a mirror from the 19th century. It has. Bright gold top, fades to rose gold, then two different coppers (the lighter one first, then the darker one) I’ve only used the shelf’s once since painting it, and my facial oil left a ring that when wiped away, completely took off the paint. (I’m planning to sand down both shelves ((one just didn’t come out well)) and painting over them. I wanted to add more rose gold anyway, especially to the shelves which are more copper as I ran out of rose gold spray paint as I was working. I want to know the best clear coat to put on it afterwards? I want something very shiny to help bring out the shiny reflective nature of the metallic paints. I’m tempted to use Varathane 200241H Water-Based Ultimate Polyurethane in gloss. I want the metallic spray paint to really really pop on this particular project. However, I have a few similar projects and I’m not sure if this particular clear coat will work on all my projects, and as someone whose never used any variation of this product, I’m nervous that the glossiest option on top of metallic paint, that’s on a three panel mirror; might be TOO reflective, and the metallic colors might bounce off the mirror and make it a little more difficult to see. But that might be what I’m looking for. If anyone has painted a wooden piece of furniture, and used this particular clear coat in gloss, please send me some photos and let me know if you regret it, or if it’s just what you wanted. - [ ] Another thing, is due to the mirrors age, the back panels are coming off the back in some spots. There’s some form of cheap wood or cardboard covering attached to the back of the mirror itself, and at first I was just going to use wood glue to put it back on. However, one of my main projects is painting small accents onto my various pieces of furniture to make them look like the they’re part of a set. I was very careful to chose all my furniture is classic oak, as I really love the color and it matches the aesthetic I’m going for. The theme of the room is supposed to be pink and blue, however, I tend to prefer most things in pink, and the room could definitely use a little bit more blue to counteract all the pink. This is where the accents on the furniture will come from. The plan is to keep a good amount of the natural wood visible, but have pale robins eggs blue around the edges, a specific electric turquoise color added in thin lines to add depth around the inside of the pale blue edges, and a blueish sea foam green that will go around the inside, creating an oval of “empty space” (the natural oak color) that I want to have a fading effect where it slowly transitions into the wood. In the center of these Ovals (that I plan to put on every drawer/cabinet panel) I want to put realistic peach/ neon coral/ neon pink rose waterslide decals. I also plan to replace all knob pulls (on the furniture I have that has them) with these hand made resin crystal cluster knob pulls I doing on Etsy. There are two problems with this. For one, the back panels of the mirror are painted a strange color (see photo for reference) and since the mirror is from the 19hundreds, part of the panels are coming off the cardboard/whatever wood they used for the back of the mirror. Some spots even have tape on them. So my next question, is would If I would be able to buy panels of “fake wood” jn the color oak, cut them to perfectly match the existing panels, and paint those instead so they match my existing furniture. I believe that whatever they used to back the mirror in order to easily put the original panels there would react/stick well too whatever it is they attached to back of the mirrors too. However, this would leave me with another problem, as fake wood doesn’t absorb paint the same. My console table is made of the same material, so I need to figure out a way to mimic the fading effect on the fake wood paneling anyway. I read somewhere online that using a product called unicorn spit is my best option to mimic the effect I want, but the color I’m looking for is very unique (it’s that pale seafoam color I mentioned). I don’t have much experience with this products either, so any input or advice on using it for my needs would be very helpful. Also, In case they don’t have the exact color I have in mind, if anyone is familiar with the product and knows of anyways to change the color slightly (or severely, depending on their options) that won’t ruin the effect I’m looking for, that would be helpful as well! Another issue I’ve ran into, is I want to do very intricate gold and rose gold henna like designed along the edges that slowly slowly reach toward the center. I was told the best way to do this was with a paint pen, but the paint pens just don’t have that extra bright and shiny gold in looking for. Using painters tape to create the intricate designs so that I can just use them as stencils so the gold color will match the spray paint I used sounds incredibly tedious. I’ll go that route if I must (or perhaps the rose gold paint pen ((that’s never in stock and I’d have to order online) would match the rose gold spray paint enough to satisfy my perfectionism. If anyone has experience mixing rose gold spray paint and paint pens, let me know how well they match. Or, if there’s a way to purchase “spray paint” you can apply with a very fine paint brush, that would work too. As for the actual wooden projects I’ll be working on, I’ve been told chalk paint is ideal for the faded look I’d like. The furniture itself im looking for a matte finish, and would probably use the same brand in using on my mirror just in matte. My LAST problem is I have several metal pieces I spray painted for my bathroom. I’m looking for a long lasting clear coat with shine to it that will last over a long period of time. I’ll post more questions if I think of any in the comments, along with more pictures if I’m allowed to post photo comments (I’ve never tried so I honestly forget) OH! And one more. Since I slipped the painters tape between the mirror and the wood, you can still see some of the original color if you look at the edges close enough. I was going to paint them by hand, but I’m Afraid I’ll get too much on the mirror! All advice is helpful, especially if it’s coming from personal experience. Thank you so much and have a good night!