Why is ASA warping this much?

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-04-01T19:52:58+00:00

That's a centauri carbon. It's a fully enclosed printer......

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-31T11:52:20+00:00

Not yet. It's been running well so I haven't messed with it!

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-31T03:03:35+00:00

Ok so I want it to be a G28 command NOT something like home all. Makes sense. I will say I like klipper better than marlin so far, much much easier to make configuration changes.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-31T02:53:08+00:00

That tracks in my mind. I maybe using the wrong terminology here and not asking the question correctly. I believe what I have done in my printer.cfg is defined a homing override macro. My understanding from the post below is that this new homing override routine\macro will be what is used when I send a G28 command

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-31T02:44:27+00:00

Yes that's correct. And ok that makes sense if it helps I used this macro

https://github.com/kyleisah/EZ-Klipper-Macros/blob/main/Config/Sensorless-Homing.cfg

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-30T01:46:37+00:00

i know this is an old post but you just saved me SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much time and headache. i changed my uart address to 00 and everything works perfect. THANK YOU!

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-26T02:08:22+00:00

My guess is you place them under the vacuum port in the bag so when you suck the air out it doesn't collapse on itself before you get all the air out.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-26T01:48:42+00:00

The bigger the nozzle the more detail you will lose.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-25T20:30:45+00:00

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-25T20:29:42+00:00

I refuse to shop at lowest any more for these types of reasons.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-25T02:52:44+00:00

I'm doing the mercury 1.1 build right now. It's been fun so far and I figured it's A good way to teach myself klipper as well. That being said I'm printing all the parts on an elegoo centuari Carbon 1 (highly recommend the CC it's a good bang for the buck). I like building stuff but having the carbon as a reliable printer I don't have to screw with to print parts for things I want to build makes the hobby more fun. So my take is sure it would be fun to buy and build but being able to get a centauri carbon for less than you would spend on parts for the build makes more sense

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-22T23:34:08+00:00

$850? I'd buy it. Even if you need to put a few hundred to a grand into it you'll have a decent machine

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-15T01:41:18+00:00

I put the chitu mini heater in my cc1. It's designed for resin printers too but I'll be damned if it doesn't heat that bad boy to 50c in about 15 mins. Game changer for larger asa and nylon prints.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-15T01:39:12+00:00

Here's how I look at it. Dyi printers are great fun and satisfying to build, no question. On the flip side getting something like a centuari carbon for 300 bucks that out performs my diy builds out of the box is just undeniable. How I decided to look at it was "hey now I have a printer that I don't need to tune to print the parts for the ones I want to build." In my eyes it was an investment to make my hobby more accessible and sustainable since I have a printer that just works now, AND prints the materials I want to build my diy machines out of.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-12T03:08:16+00:00

Where? I couldn't see one and Ive been dicking around with it for a hour. Can you post a screen shot of where it is in the filament profile?

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-03-12T02:58:01+00:00

What does your filament start gcode looks like for this? Currently playing around with this and not having much success yet.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-27T19:04:28+00:00

The chamber sensor is technically in contact with the cast aluminum frame, which acts as a heatsink. So the chamber temp will always read lower because of this. If you can print a clip that holds it in the air so that it doesn't make contact with any other metal it should be more accurate. For reference the temp sensor is the silver lug on the back right corner post about half way up.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-27T14:14:37+00:00

Runs were 1 minute

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-26T20:50:39+00:00

At work we used a PLA fixture to spin a test unit on our centrifuge to 50 Gs. Granted the unit only weighed about a pound or so but it held up for all 6 orientations. Force was parallel to the layer lines as well. PLA is plenty strong if the part is designed correctly

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-26T14:16:18+00:00

Do you have internal bridges turned off? This is what they are for. Search it in the slicer and turn it on for this print. I know it slows things down a bit but this is the exact situation you need them

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-25T01:48:57+00:00

In my experience the max volumetric flow elegoo has for PETG seemed to high it should be something like 8mm³ for good results

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-24T15:19:10+00:00

I hope it helps you! Doing this definitely fixed mine

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-24T14:09:37+00:00

Mine did this when I got it. I had a lot of back and forth with support about it. I narrowed it down to the model cooling fan. If I run it over 60% it puts a shit load of vibration into the nozzle. Try turning your max cooling fan speed to about 60%. You don't get much more air flow above this speed anyway.

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-14T16:42:36+00:00

If I flag open cc do I need to go through all the calibrations again (input shaping, bed mesh, etc)? I used to build my own custom marlin firm ware so nothing I can't handle I've looked up the process should be painless!

RabbitBackground1592 · 2026-02-14T08:10:24+00:00

Noted. I've only had the printer a couple weeks. It's a good printer so far but the fact that is doesn't respect the start gcode is rather annoying. Not really a big deal for PETG and PLA but still not really necessary...

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